El Presidente

Ha!...No, I've got a set of BFG's for playing in the mud and offroad, and a set of all terrains for around town. Your rig inspired me to lift mine, mainly because your running 29's and you don't look top heavy, yet your fenders wells aren't cut to hell. So, at 6" at the strut, am I looking at serious cutting or a little trimming and thumping. I got a Jeep that I hack on and I'm hoping to keep my subaru at least mostly whole....but..honestly, that will probably change..

A 6 lug conversion is easy. It might sound scary to start drilling on wheels and hubs, but lots of guys are running 6 lugs and had zero problems. The toyota/chev/dodge/nissan 6x5.5" wheels work because 5.5" comes out to 139.7mm and the subaru pattern is 140mm, so if you pull two studs out of your drums/hubs, than the other two will mount up a 6 lug wheel. .3mm difference isn't a concern. From there you can convert the wheel to 140mm, by marking the wheel from the back through the empty stud holes(that you pulled to mount the 6 lug wheel) and then re-installing the stock stud or convert your Subaru drums/hubs to 6x5.5" by marking the hubs throught the stud holes in the wheel, then you drill holes and install 4 more studs in every drum/hub. Drilling the wheels is cheaper and easier Theres lots of threads and writeups on how to do this, try searching the offroad forum

If your planning on lifting at all, even 2", seriously consider a 6 lug upgrade like GD suggested, or even if your not lifting... The options for tires are huge in the 15" size and if you run a 195/65/R15(or something similar), you'd be roughly a 1/4" taller and 1/2" wider than a 185/80/R13. 15" tires and wheels are everywhere and cheap, I bought a set of bridgestone all terrains with %60-70 left on 6 lug toyota wheels for $40 on Craiglist not too long ago. Search "195" in the CL auto parts section in your area, I just did and saw a set of 195/60/R15 for $50

They're for when you put the rear seat down to increase the cargo area. Lift the rear seat bottom cushion up from the pull handle, and you'll see little hooks on the bottom of the cushion, when you lower the rear seat back cushions, the loops on top of the rear seat cushions hook onto these hooks to give you a stable, flat, cargo area. It will make sense if you put the rear seat down and miss a hook, the seat back will sit lower than the cargo area and be springy. I don't think any of them came with headrests in back, but I can't say %100.

Thanks! I'm gonna be running 30X9.50 R15 BFG mud terrains and 235/75/R15 all terrains with 1.25" extend radius rods and 6" of lift at the struts and maybe 5" at the shocks. do you think I'm gonna have to trim fenders?

So tell us already:grin:

The u-joint you want is a #430-10 and they run about $30 a piece and any driveshaft shop can get them. The driveline you have doesn't have serviceable u-joints..at least they're not suppose to be. Here's instructions on how they are replaced http://rockforddriveline.com/Staked_Instructions.htm If your u-joint has been rattling around in the yoke, you probably needs a new yoke, which means you may as well get a new driveline from the JY. I just bought the whole thing last month in great shape for $60. If its the rear part of the shaft(carrier bearing back), you can remove your driveshaft at the flange behind the carrier bearing and at the rear diff and drive it around just fine, just don't remove the part from the carrier bearing forward or you'll lose your tranny fluid at the slip yoke. If it is on the front half of the shaft, get it fixed soon or find another ride till it is fixed...if your shaft breaks on the highway say goodbye to your floor pans..worse case scenario, you lose a driveline and it plants itself in the ground and you flip over.

I assumed it was electrolysis, but I was curious about the details so I might do it myself. Are you using an off the shelf product in your tank? Just water? How long do you let it sit? Magnets do usually work, except on 400 series stainless, because it only has %11 Chromium.

What the hell are you doing thats strong enough to pull chromium out of stainless using a battery charger? You didn't get this out of an old US Army Improvised Munitions Handbook did you? I'm curious, entertain me...whats your "home thing"?

PCV is easy, one hose goes to the PCV valve to one valve cover(I used the driver side) and the other hose goes from the passenger valve cover to a filtered air source, usually the air cleaner, but a little after market PCV air filter will work too. This system is important for the health of the motor, so use filtered air. If you have alot of blow by(which isn't common on these motors) you can get away with a draft tube, but a PCV system works better. You can cut the flanges off and re-install them with quarters underneath, but I used some 1 1/4x 3/16" bar and made some block-off plates. They work great. While your at it, take out the plug for the EGR and cut the stainless pipe it uses, find a bolt or something similair, put it in the plug and fill the plug with weld and re-install it. This will eliminate your EGR system giving you a little more top end power and less idle problems, then you can ditch the EGR valve, and make things look and run better. Also running EGR-free will reduce crap inside your motor, like carbon deposits. I used my EGR studs to mount my custom throttle cable holder for my DF series weber/holley.

What are you referring to? It takes serious stuff to eat most grades of stainless. Are we talking about a hot tank? The hot tank at my former job used one of Zep's products. I think it was sodium hydroxide based and it handled stainless fine, but the only thing it didn't like was aluminum....If we are taking about a hot tank, they're just stinky and toxic all around.

If its gas, you already have one, if its diesel, an O2 sensor would foul in 2 seconds of use and become useless.

Depends on the Subaru and how the HHO generator is put together. Most of the aftermarket kits I've seen are junk and a few may work, but since the standard for a good HHO generator is homemade, the standard is custom. You could see no increase or you could see a big increase, just depends on how its built.

As I recall he plumbed both H2 and O2 lines into the intake system upstream of the throttle body and acted solely as a passive HHO system. If it produces more, you get more power and efficiency(better MPG's), if it produces less(mainly low air temps) than it gets normal MPG's. The only reason an HHO system would affect an O2 sensor is a misfire. An HHO generator adds both fuel and oxidizer to the air in perfect ratio, so its seperate from the gasoline system altogether, it just runs in the backround. The water thats formed in the combustion chamber will prevent detonation and help clean things though. Water injection systems have come from the factory on some of the trucks I've worked on in the past. A good HHO generator requires alot of homework and a good understanding of how the system works. Its not a "spend $100 at Home Depot" deal. A power management circuit has to be made to prevent a cascade effect, which would draw to much power. The proper electrolyte has to be used and the PH levels mantained. The proper grades of stainless are essential too. Its all do-able and it does work. Ever since I heard about HHO generators, I assumed it was "Hippie Hope Science" and ran on patchouli and bad B.O., then I saw one on a Jeep of all things and the guy kept very stringent records of MPG's and everything done. It was years ago, but I remember he said it took a good year to get dialed in right. I was impressed!

I agree, brakes aren't anything to cut corners on. I'll have a set made, especially if its only $50-60 bucks:grin: At about 8" extension, do you have any problems with rubbing? Your crossmembers are at 5" right?(I think I asked you before) Josh

I'm getting all the pieces together and doing research on how to lift my 87 GL and I can't find info on what you guys have done with your brakelines. I've read they need to be lengthened in the rear and that front lines will work for that, but I can't find any details. Do you guys use couplers or unions? what size? anybody have part #'s? Also, in the front, if I disconnect the brakeline from the strut, will it have enough length to work? I've read that these also need to be lengthened, but I also couldn't find details on what was done. I got most, if not all, foreseeable problems figured out like shift linkage, coolant and fuel lines etc., but the brakelines are holding me up.

A new canister will not give you a "boom" in MPG's. Carbon canisters are an emissions device and are not for fuel economy. On paper they "can" give you a percent of a MPG when they work correctly, but like Redcap said, just throw it away. All the vehicles I get I throw them away, they cause more problems than they're worth, if you don't have to pass emissions. $105 for a carbon canister!?...I'd never pay a cent for a carbon canister, just plug your return and vent line that the Hicrappy used and run a vented gas cap.

Have you looked into HHO generators? I've seen one on a Jeep XJ and it went from 23mpg's to roughly 28 mpg's and thats on a 4.0l inline six. I've heard some people say there just a cheap gimmick and I agree most of the kit ones are, but if you build it your self, they can work awesome. Running ethanol free gas can give you another 3-5 mpg boost, but you'll need to lean out your carb because E10(most gas stations use this) requires a richer mix than ethanol free gas. Ethanol free gas also gives you smoother idle, better power and doesn't harden and erode fuel lines.

Crap! If you posted about a month ago I could have sold you both cats in great shape off a CA 86 GL wagon. Will non-CA cats pass CA emissions? If they do, you could have them ready for pick up at a out of state parts store and make the drive to get them.

No special tools are needed, and if your lacking any wrenches/sockets, just hit up harbor freight. If you have any buddys with full tool kits and/or experience diving into motors...it might be worth a 6 pack to have them help. Pre-lubing the MM gasket and oil pump o-ring will help them install/seat and prevent dry start.

My thought on that was to run my front skid from the bumper to mounts on the front crossmember that would sit just lower than the exhaust tubes. You wouldn't loose any clearance, because if your up that far, your mushing pipes anyway. I'm using 1/8" or 3/16" plate for my skid depending on how it goes together and what supports I can fit behind it.

I'd wait on the oil pan, I've heard they can be a real SOB. Here's a thread with the OEM parts numbers for most of the seals. http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41172&highlight=pump+seals+part+number I called my local Subaru dealer and got all the seals and o-rings, minus the HG's and oil pan gasket, for $80. I think that part #806718090 - oil pump seal, Isn't really needed, because from what I understand, if you need one, you may as well get a new pump. I'm talking about the shaft seal to clarify. Also, the "mickey mouse' oil pump seal #14066AA000 is one number off....I can't exactly remember which one, but I think its #15066AA000, your parts dealer will be able to straighten it out. If you have problems getting the cam tower seal(which is RTV) to properly seal, you can get 5mm o-ring rubber by ft/roll to fit in there for a oil tight fit, I haven't done it, but search for details if you like. I searched online and found a few local sources that have it for fairly cheap.

Check this out, post #7 http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1524138 This guy got a weber on a Suzuki to pass emissions and assuming it is a samuri he's talking about, it probably has a 1.8L. Although a completely different animal, the size is the same and is a sign of hope. I think my buddy got his 22r toyota pickup to pass, but I can't remember %100. If your rig was a california car, it probably already has a bung for an O2 sensor which you could moniter fuel ratio from using a home made Air/fuel meter(or a professional one). You can really dial things in with one of these and they also work as you drive. Heres how: http://www.scirocco.org/tech/misc/afgauge/af.html Lachlan: The black liquid is probably water mixed with carbon soot from when it was running rich, which is probably nothing to sweat. A little water(not antifreeze) out the tail pipe is normal:grin:

Yup , your running rich if you smell gas, although you should look for leaking carbon canister hoses or loose tank vents too. I cant really recommend any site or page in particular on Weber tuning. I learned from old High Performance Weber and Clymer manuals, and lots of experience. So just keep on Google and you'll find good pages. I recently put a DFAV(Holley's Weber clone used on early fords) on my GL and needed a "refresher" on emulsion tubes...I found lots of info and many guys asking the same questions as me in several sources, for many cars. I can't help you much with cats, I have much more experience taking them off, or punching them through, than fixing them. Take your time in learning how your carb works, knowing your system means you'll be able to diagnose damn near any problem in a couple minutes. Chicks dig guys with skills:grin:

Very nice....I like the hybrid exo!! Have you leaned it on trees? What size is that? I've got tube fenders and sliders in future plans for my GL. I know what size to use on my Jeep, but I don't need that much weight on my GL and it also weights 1,500 lbs. less than my Jeep. Welcome to the USMB:grin: