Brokechump

One more thing, I couldn't convince myself to add the coolant addative. I couldn't get a good answer on what exactly this stuff does! The guy behind the parts counter told me to by it, but then called it liquid head gasket and couldn't tell me what it would do to the coolant other than what stop-leak would do. So I passed...he was also, IMO, talking down to me so I was glad I used 1stsubaruparts.com to get most of my parts.

I need to start my write up before I forget all the details. It wasn't easy getting the cylinder heads in and out but if you tilt and angle it just right the lower rear most head bolt has about 2mm of clearance and just enough to get it back on without touching the new gasket. It takes a little while to slowly possition it but I was able to do it by myself...some hands below would have helped a ton.

Oh yeah....external leak at the back of the driver side cyl head. (#4 cyl?). The well of the motor mount had a lot of caked on oil and coolant. There was also a very slight internal leak because the back driver side spark plug (#4?) had a little extra white burned on it. When I drove it to my inlaws garage the car was a good smoke machine at stop lights. Coolant dripping onto the exhaust.

The conclusion! Spent a day and a half for the disassembly, slowly taking pictures. (I plan on doing a write up with pics) Parts showed up 3pm on day number 3 (new years eve dammit) I did watch the ball drop with the head gaskets on but only up to the first round of torque (had to wait for the big t-wrench) and the water pump went on. Saturday the engine took shape again, timing belt, intake manifold. Final assmebly with exhaust and bits and acc. belts sunday monring. Then the fun began....I cranked and cranked NO START. After removing and reinstalling the timing belt 5 times for no reason the injectors finally primed or fuel finally got to them the car coughed and started roughly. Need to reset the ecm and check codes. I did drive it to work this morning so it's running! It's on a default map because I have no temp reading. It hesitates off idle but once past 2k rpm it's strong. Will work on that this afternoon. Other than the long headbolts having only a mm or two of clearance the job was easy, just a lot to take off and on!

From the wife's description it sounds like an external leak, but I haven't checked it out yet. Happened on my wife's way to work, when stopped she noticed the smoke and when she got to work and opened the hood there was white smoke. It's been smelling like maple syrup/coolant for awhile now. I'll investigate the leak tonight. With 120k, other HG threads, and the smell I'll be looking around Cyl#4 for coolant dripping on the exhaust. Thanks for the FSM link...looks like I'll be subscribing.

I've got a 2000 OBW with the notorious 2.5L SOC. Can anyone help me with the torque specs for my cylinder head bolts. I'm replacing the head gaskets, timing belt, tensioner, and water pump (along with misc oil seals). Oooor a source for a factory service manual or regular repair manual. In all my searching I can't find one. Thanks -Dan

For posterity...in case somebody else has these symptoms, I think I located my problem. The intake manifold gasket on the passenger side seems to be seeping coolant. I noticed a small amount of steam coming from the spark plug socket. When the engine was cool, no problems, But as it warmed up it began to hesitate. As it got closer and closer to operating temp the hesitation got worse and worse. I assume the coolant is getting into the combustion chamber when the pressure increases. Especially in a sharp left hand turn. This is a fun winter project!

Are you sure it's a leak? When I did mine I ended up with a thin radius of grease because I couldn't wipe of think layer of the excess around the boot lip. -Dan

(1981 GL Wagon 4spd/CCR Hitatchi Carb/Accel Coil) Need help, last night I was horse'n my subi around a turn using the double peddle technique to swing the rear end around ....during this maneuver there was a power blip (I often get a blip or hesitation taking sharp left turns) and coming out of the turn I had no power and the car wouldn't idle . I could turn the car off, wait a minute or two, and it would fire right back up and idle like nothing was wrong. It would run like nothing was wrong until I loaded it to hard and then the same thing, no power and stumbling low - no idle. It was dark so I couldn't check all vac lines (all relatively new) and the valve cover hoses are new, one was bent over and kinked a little. Any ideas on what could cause this? I was thinking the secondary diaphram/power valve?? Is that possible? Hints and suggestions are very much appreciated! TIA -Dan

There are four screws on the back side of the steering wheel, these attach the center cover with horn buttons. Don't forget to disconnect the horn wire before a full pull. Once the middle cover is off there is a nut to undo, make an alignment mark and then pull the wheel off. -Dan

I experience a similar thing in my GL wagon, it's a 4 spd dr. The splined output stubs for the front drive shafts on my transaxle have play (loose). I've been told it's the bearings supporting those that are most likely the culprit for the vibration when you're on the gas.

Thanks for the info....I'll start looking for a 5spd, if I can find one cheap enough. I don't have noise yet, just a slight vibration...so hopefully I have some time. Thanks everyone! -Dan

Does anyone have tech manual with drawings of the EA81 4 spd DR tranny (81 GL wagon)? The splined shafts coming out of the tranny have a bit of play in them and is causing a vibration when the go pedal is used liberally! Should there be any play in these shafts? Is there a set of bearings I can replace or some adjustment? Any help would be appreciated...gracias!

Why do I love my subi??? Because I hit that button to my lower left....and like a secret 007 trick a door opens and a light in the middle of the grill comes on!!!! Also, my car was going to be driven to the junkyard! All CV boots busted, wheel bearings toast, rusted out, ragged at the farm until CV boots filled with grass and corn parts, and did I mention the rust? Buuuuuut, I've had the car for almost three years now with a tune up and necessary repairs mentioned she's driven through snow like a haus, passed emissions without emissions controls, gotten me to work for a year and a half, and never failed to start!! Despite all the ragging I do to it....oh and I don't have to worry about door dings and can park where ever I want! Plus the looks you get from other motorists as my rusted out little blue wagon races by them!

I've been trying to tune up my 00 OBW, but can't find plug wires! I couldn't find a post that talked about brand or where to get the wires...is this a dealer part or am I looking in the wrong place? Also what kind of wires does everyone like? Thanks

Has anyone tried no lift at all? 28" 4Runner tires with a lot of fender cutting, possibly wheel well fabbing in the rear? My car is a rust bucket and I just figured I'd try something on it's way out!

That video sounds awsome !!!! But for some reason I don't get a picture I use WMP9 which I sometimes have problems with...anyone else not been able to view the cool sounding video?

I've got an 81 1800 GL wagon with all the bells and wistles (hahaaa....4spd dr 4wd, no carpet, no back seat...) anyway the brakes suck, I think the booster is done. Does anyone know if a master cylinder + booster combo out of a mid to late 80's GL wagon will fit in my 81? and hopefully give me more braking power? Right now stopping is un-nerving. I happened to see a GL wagon in a pick and pull near me last time I was there. Thanks. -Dan

I hate thieves....I like the sound of the ignition coil anti theft. Should put it on the ignition switch so the thief is knocked out in your car, easier to deal with. My custom anti theft device is a worn out ignition and wheel lock, the shop I take it to for inspection can never get it started....WITH the key! I have to walk out and fire up the car so the guy can drive it in the garage...ha haaaa

Japanese vs American emissions?? interesting...my 77 Jeep wagoneer has the stove pipe on one side only! I second the BS call on the cheese! "must connect to both sides? The stove pipe sends exhaust gases to the intake manifold for the EGR valve to dump into the mix under load. Why you need exhaust gas from both sides would be beyond me. Just what I think I know....which isn't necessarly correct.

This morning was the magic morning....whether or not my tweeking did the trick or the guy didn't want to see my rust bucket again here's what I did to pass emission here in northern VA....Thanks of course to everyone's advice. Unfortunately I didn't go out of my way to find some alky. New air filter and oil change. Filled near empty tank with 4 gal of 93 oct. Enrichened mixture with 1/8 turn ccw. Retarded timing from 8 to 6 degrees. Pinched off the air hose coming from duty solenoid #1. Left the car running for the inspector. Dropped my NO number by 1000. Now to finish the rust repair. This was for an 81 Hitachi carbed EA81 GL wagon. Thanks everyone! Now on to rust hole repair!

Seeing Subi81's BAD ARSE front on pic of the cyclops sparked my need to improve mine! Has anyone increased the wattage on their "Passing Light"? I would like to slap a 80 to 100 what flood type bulb in there without doing much work...just a straight swap. -Dan

Thanks for the advice! So where might I pick up some of this magic fuel? Do I have to go to WVa to get some grain alcohol?? -Dan

I'm trying to pass emissions in Northern VA. I passed everything except the NOx for the 25mph test, I'm just barely over the line according to the shop guy. My question...will enriching the mixture drop the NOx or increase it? Please please...help!:boohoo: Thanks in advance! -Dan