I think the fuel filter is one of the few things that the previous owner replaced. The engine compartment fuel filter looks brand new. Is there another one by the gas tank?... I know that ea82's have one by the tank and one in the engine compartment.

It cold starts just fine. Its just getting going from a stop or sometimes when shifting up when climbing a hill when it hesitates.

Ok, so when I rebuilt the engine on my '85 brat ('82 engine) I focused on the longblock. I did not get new spark plugs, wires, coil, cap, rotor, and I did not touch the carbourater at all.

That being said, the engine likes to hesitate at low rpms. Especially when it is cold. Now that I have recovered financially after doing all the other work to the car, I am thinking of buying new spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, air filter, and possibly a new egr unit.

I am wondering what year/style of these things to get. Before when I bought my clutch, I purchased an '82 setup only to realize that a post '83 clutch would have been better.

I know that subarus like NGK plugs, so I have those in mind, just wondering on the other stuff. Thank you in advance for any of your wisdom.

Thanks for the response. I ordered everything from BelMetric. https://www.belmetric.com/s10x125x62full-p-1377.html?cPath=9_72_174 Didn't feel too raped on the price 'till they added on shipping. Almost doubled the cost:eek:

 

No problem.

 

Heads are retourqed

Heheh loads of fun out in the cold windy rain.

Now I'm off to get an oil filter and change out the break-in oil.

that is the heater control valve. there is no fixing it, but it can be replaced. you do not need to remove the heater core to replace it. but you wil have a hard time finding a new one. they pop up every once and a while, usually a 50-60 $ part.

 

Why is it rare? I haven't looked yet but I bet Napa or Orilley's would have it.

 

2nd pic on page two here. The exhaust connection to the head. Is that the way these come from the factory? Two studs and two cap screws? I don't have any of the fasteners and can't find a good illustration in my FSM.

 

Bill

 

Yep, that is the way that the spacer setup is from the factory. I didn't have 3 of the 4 cap screws and 1 of the 4 studs was missing when I got the car. So I used all-thread to make a new stud, and trimmed the length of some other cap screws that I had to fit the exaust bolt holes.

 

 

I think its for the 60,000 mile service reminder.

Your EGR light will turn on and I think if you plug them it will clear it

 

Nice, so if I plug it in I will only succeed in turning on the EGR dummy light?

 

Haven't worked on the Brat lately except for just checking fluid levels.

Everything is holding fluid at the right level, like it should. :-p

Next up will be to retourqe the heads at 500 miles... Its getting close

When I first got this car, there were no leak issues in the cab.
Then a few weeks after getting it running and driving, I noticed a puddle on the drivers side carpet.

 

 

I tested all of the windshild trim with a garden hose... no leaks. That left me with the heater core being the problem.
The liquid was slick and hard to wipe off of my hands once I touched it, so I knew it wasn't water.
I finally addressed the problem today
I took apart the bottom of the dash to see what was going on with the heater core while the car was running. I played with all the selections of the fan speed and the defrost/heat/bi-level.
The whole time the temperature selection dial was turned to hot (all the way to the right) when I turned it to cool, coolant started leaking out of this *idk what to call it* here:

 

 

 

So as long as I keep the temperature selector at "hot" I don't have a problem.
But I know I will need to address this problem sooner or later.
Also, while I was poking around under there, I notice that these two connections were disconnected:

 

 

 

Is this important? I'm assuming that its for a function that my car doesn't have. But if anyone knows what it is, I'm listening.

My heater/vent fan on my black '83 car I drive works, but it makes noise when its on like something hits the fan blades.

How long of a job is it to remove/re-install?

 

It is super easy. Just need a phillips head screwdriver and a small socket set.

Takes about 10 minutes to get it out. Just have to remove the tray thing and the wall behind it under the glove box. And then remove the glove box from the dash to get to the bolts on top of the blower assembly. Reassembly is just as easy

And you may not even need to take it out, but since it is so easy you might as well remove it to examine it.

Replaced the heater fan motor today.

Now my heater works!

No need to pack blankets for the cold and towels for the windows

Problem resolved

New fan motor in and the heat works great.

Yep:

 

 

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/265046_246283432055552_100000216909175_1213464_5539739_n.jpg[/*img]

 

With the above code, to change it from a hot link that uses and [/*url] (remove * to make it work) all you need to do is use at the start and [/*img] at the end of the image's address, again without the * to make it work. Piece of piss once you know the coding etc. So the above image is essentially the code you see below it, I've added the little * to make it not show up as a second image of the same thing

 

And as for the subi's in the yard, we've got the same thing down here. Many will come in with new leads, dizzy caps and alternators - when it was probably the battery! I've stripped subarus that are in better condition than Ruby Scoo. It is sad but unfortunately we live in a disposable society.

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

 

Thanks, I figured it out myself though

Got a build thread up

 

As sad as it is to see dead subarus in a yard... you gotta love the inexpensive parts from them

Pull the fan motor connector and apply +12v. Could be as simple as a bad fan motor.

 

GD

 

Could be as simple as a bad ground. I have pulled fan motors out and tested them and the worked OK only to find out the ground was bad. Do as GD suggested and if it this doesn't work, use a wire to between a steel part on the fan housing/motor and any metal body part. Also test at the connector to see if you are getting power there.:

 

I pulled the whole assembly apart and applied voltage to it. The motor spins, but spins really slow... deffinately not fast enough to kick out any heat or air. I then took the fan motor itself apart to find a whole bunch of crap inside. I'm just going to order a new motor for it.

pksjeep: idk what you mean by a ground... there was just one power line in and out. Where would this ground be located?

I'm thinking the ground is not the problem though, judging by how sluggishly the motor was spinning when I applied power to it.

So I did a search for this, and found nothing helpful.

The heater in my brat does not work.

No speeds of the fan come on...

I've already checked the fuses, so I'm guessing it has to be something electrical that is wrong with the fan switch or ???

If it was the core that was bad, the fan would still come on... or thats what I'm assuming

Some insight or wisdom on this would be greatly appreciated

Been kinda busy lately, so I haven't had much time for working on the Brat.
Some updates:
All the images in the thread are resized
About a week back I had some spare time so I put the door panels in.

 

I put plastic on first to keep moisture out (seen through the speaker hole)
Have the speaker covers, just don't have any speakers to cover at the moment.

Lmao its franken-brat

Deffinately not "Limited Edition"

Heheh, that is on my list of things to do.

I just need to make copies to be edited with paint (its all i got :-\ ) and then reupload to my image hosting site and then edit my posts.

It kinda irritates me to scroll sideways too.

A fix is in the works

Thanks for the props I deffinately love this thing, even with the headaches it gives me

Why no pics of the passenger side?

The manual recommended 47ft/lbs for the 3rd step, I retorqed all the bolts to 57ft/lbs.

 

You are lucky you didn't strip out the block.

Welcome to the board.

I am in love with your Brat

'82 is my favorite year for Subaru. One day I hope to own a rally light wagon and rally light brat. Gorgeous find. I am very jealous

The shakes are back...

This time it feels like its coming from the front passenger side wheel.

The bearing has been singing in that wheel ever since I got it, so I'm sure it is in need of replacement.

It doesn't wiggle the steering wheel, it can be felt through the chassis of the car. Feels really floppy. It feels like there is a bulb in the tire or something.

Has anyone else had this kind of thing happen? I know the tires/rims are fine... I'm questioning if the bearing can shake the car that much.

 

I love the West Coast. I wouldnt move east unless I HAD to (business or something) and in my "transfer" costs would be 10-15 Subarus, all rust-proofed and shopped to the east plus my living costs and stuff... But I will be keeping my rust-free scoob and be happy about it.

 

+1

I'll never leave this fine place.

 

Im just used to being on the west coast with no rust but enough about my good life.

 

Haha way to rub it in his face

O.p, you should try and source another one... and rust proof it.

Or move out here to the west, I would do it for Subie Love

You don't have to go through the dealer...

The water pump I bought for my ea81 was only 40$ at napa.

I'm assuming that the ea82 should be in the same ball park.

No problem.

Here is another I found google imaging for brats w/2" lift

His description:

Ok, so its a 89 Brumby/Brat. 2" lift kit running 6stud 14" wheels with Kumho 27x8.5 M/T tyres or 15" alloys with 215/60 street thread. Alloy bullbar with two rectangle spotties. 3" SS rollbar with tonneau cover to suite. EJ22 with a custom gearbox setup using EJ Dual Range casing, EA82t FT4WD gears and centre lockable diff, and EA82 PT gearbox 1.59 to 1 low range gearset.This gave me a AWD gearbox with selectable 4WD and low range.

AAAhhh!! Theres a snake in my belt cover! Hehe

She oughta run great once thats all replaced.

Some guy on craigslist was selling a brat with a 2" lift several months ago. I went to check it out but it had too many problems and the guy was firm on his high price.

That is just the crappy craigs picture, but it was lifted 2" and was sitting on pugs.