6 Star
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Posts posted by 6 Star
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In my '86 EA82 GL DualRange Wagon, the cups that you get from the drive-throughs fit wonderfully between the Driver's seat and the E-brake. The transfer-case lever keeps the cup from tilting forward, and the center console/armrest from going backwards.
Depending how tall of an order you get (cup) I just reach past the cup for the trans-shifter. Not like it requires any real effort to shift, its like working a Toy.
Those paper-multi-cup-holders also work well, the ones they give you are the drive-thru, as long as you keep your turns under a G.
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Points condenser in the distributor is pretty common... would have to check for spark when your symptoms arise
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3 minutes ago, GeneralDisorder said:
Not really....
Your points are all valid... I'm just partial to classic Subarus.
A lot of people are...
And I'm not part of the "wheeling" club. My cars rarely go off road, only up to the mountains occasionally for snowboarding trips.
To me they are most beautiful mechanically in stock form. The 80's Subies have less techno stuff to go wrong (manual everything) than the 90's Subies. But I agree parts are getting scarce.
I've dabbled with the square body chevies and they are very nice vehicles.
We grew up with my grandfather's 77 Blazer, 4x4 auto... it went everywhere; camping fishing, etc. The power steering was wonderful. We probably should never have sold it as it was all-original... however it had it's tail end in salt water a few too many times loading/unloading our fishing/crabbing boat.
Also had a '75 or '76 (can't remember) Crew Cab - on Standard Cab Frame (about the same as a 'burban frame). It had the granny-low first-gear 4 speed manual with 4x4 transfer case, it was also lifted 4 - 6 inches on suspension blocks with huge tires and had the front locking hubs. It had no Bed at the time so it looked like quite the bob-tail. Ended up selling that as well.
The sound of the SBC was addictive...
We just had zero space... the big Frankenstein I described above took up about the same real-estate of two classic subarus.
Nobody pulled out in front of either of those vehicles when they saw them coming.
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Scott84 your location is Florida? Looks pretty clean for that area of the country (not rusty)
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9 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said:
Forget the 80's junk. Get at least a 90 to 94 Legacy with the 2.2. They are quite easy to work on and you can get parts for them. Either that or do as I did and forget the Subaru game and get yourself into a vintage GM that you can get parts to maintain. Love my '84 K5 Jimmy.
GD
Subaru's get more than twice the mileage of the square body Chevy. But there is nothing that feels quite as safe as driving a Tank around
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19 hours ago, tomhyyt said:
Would upload the whole brochure but can't upload mote than 2 mb so can't do it.
https://m.facebook.com/groups/1603473039901513/permalink/2911123415803129/?ref=group_browse
If anybody is a member of the 4x140 or GTFO club, he's posted them there^^
I've had good luck with Imjur so far, JesZek recommended to me
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What Moosens said...
Let them do their song and dance, as long as you get the car back. If you can prove the value of the car is about $3000 - $3500 then that is more $$ in your pocket. Be firm! Don't settle... the insurance companies like to lowball, but hate to have cases drag on. Eventually you will make them submit to your will with the proper proof of your vehicle's worth.
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Welcome.
Glad your boy is OK.
While I am not familiar with the new-age Subaru Space Ships, you are correct that is not the process of towing.
If the speeds were low and the distance minimal, hopefully any damage to the drive train reflects that.
Check if one or both of the rear tires have flat spots or chewed up rubber from dragging...
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There was a cool video a member made on one of the FB group pages. Involved cooling the bearings in the freezer for a while, and applying a heat gun to the knuckles... the bearings slipped right in without having to use a press
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Any coil/strut combo from the corresponding type of chassis will work. It depends on if your "GL" came stock with the EA82 or the EA81 engine. There was some overlap of models being made in the 80's... the EA81's were in the 2-door-hatchbacks still in 1988. While all the other models (4 door wagon, 4 door sedan, 3-door lift-back coupe) had the EA82...
This doesn't include the XT series (wedges)... I'm not as familiar with those
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On 7/17/2021 at 9:20 AM, GeneralDisorder said:
You can discard (or reuse if you like) that seal. It's not necessary.
GD
And here I was fretting over the same seal, back when building up my '85 Brat.
Good to know... I was worried that without it there would be symptoms akin to a rear-main leak.
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You may need to source conventional coil-over springs/ struts to wear in the meantime. Those air suspension pieces will be difficult to find
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Use the floor jack to hold pressure on the LCA when removing the ball joint castle nut nut. Then take the castle nut and thread it back on upside down until it is flush with the stud tip of the ball joint. Few whacks with a BFH and it should be loose.
Tricks learned from an old timer, my pops
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Don't quote me, as I've never personally lifted a 1980 wagon... but I would say that is the gen 2 (ea81) category.
Even though the engine is an ea71, the body is gen 2.
Not sure how different the cross member is between the ea71 and ea81 for the gen 2 but it cannot be very different if it is. The ea71 in the gen 2 form is almost identical to the ea81.
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19 hours ago, Subasaurus said:
I noticed the red badge, what was the reason for the red on the badge? top of the line trim level?
To keep with the Rising Sun theme, she's Custom
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Sorry Kiwi, not sure why the coolant is needed in the stock Hitachi... was hoping Bennie would chime in on that...
Perhaps it is to warm the carb when it is cold, and to cool it when it is hot...
I've thought I've had a blown head gasket before mistakenly;
Removed the oil cap and the condensation in the engine created the milkshake appearance on the roof of the oil cap lid.
However finding it in the dipstick is more devious... I pray it isn't the case for you, but indeed you may have a blown head gasket...
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I've had good luck posting images with Imjur so far. Loyale2.7Turbo gave me that tip.
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In for more pics of Zero (the Hero).
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September 1972 - Leone - Japan
September 1972 - Leone Optional Parts - Japan
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That would be more of a direct fit than a 5 speed. At least the rear driveline wouldn't need to be a custom length if you went 4 speed 4x4.
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When installing a Weber on an EA82 intake, the process is to block off the coolant port that would go to the carb with JB Weld or better...
Not the case here for the Hitachi as the coolant is needed... but in the future if you decide to go Weber...
However Subaru does have some "different" gasket materials and thicknesses. The two intake-manifold-to-head gaskets come to mind. If you get anything but Subaru replacements there, in for a bad time eventually.
Maybe the Subaru gasket is Superior here as well?
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Whoa, sourced some NOS?
Let's see!
Just me... but I cringe at the thought of drilling holes in a nice body...
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FWD Life. My trusty little gas sipper.
In Other News...
I added a Table of Contents (So far, for just the brochures) to the First Post.
And you will find that they all have Hyperlinks to their location in the Thread.
Plus, I've uploaded more of the Japanese brochures. (Fixed their broken links, and added them to the "Contents")
Check it out
More to come...
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Hey Guys
in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
Posted
Welcome. Clean Fozzie