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ccrinc

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Everything posted by ccrinc

  1. Wie gehts! Sehr gut bilden!! Und willkommen!! (My German isn't so great either ) Emily http:://www.ccrengines.com
  2. Yep, the casting is the same. First priority is to put turbo exhaust valves in it! Then depending on which side you need, complete the conversion. If you have them (MPFI & Turbo) side by side, you should be able to see what needs to be done. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
  3. Take out the head plugs and empty absolutely every drop of moisture out of it that you can, then use that antimoisture stuff. You wouldn't believe how many blocks we trash because they were "stored" with moisture in them and the cylinders rusted beyond redemption! (Oh yeah, don't forget to put the head plugs back in) Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
  4. Check your engine oil level? Seems to me there is a fuel pump safety cutoff when engine oil is detected below a certain level. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
  5. I see you're in Colorado? How many do you want? (If you'll come and get it) Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
  6. "Carburetor is a French word meaning 'leave it alone' "! Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
  7. If the engine's shaking like that, are you sure it's firing on all cylinders? Like, is there a plug wire loose, or a bad spark plug? Another good possibility...a vacuum hose broke in the cold or came loose. In cold weather, you're going to have a lot of lifter noise anyway, but it wouldn't make the engine shake like that. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
  8. If you want to temporarily seal a small leak, use table pepper. (about a MacDonalds pack worth) OK, it sounds weird, but the stuff works! Ask any old timer who's been around cars for years. And it will NOT hurt any of the components either. It flows to the point of least resistance (the leak), gets stuck there and swells up, temporarily sealing the leak. Also, if you think about it, it's totally bio-friendly, and sure a lot cheaper than any stuff you buy for this. ps: Bars and most of that stuff can definitely screw up the entire cooling system on a Subaru. May be ok for an old Ford or Chevy, but not a Sube. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
  9. About the octane: you need HIGHER octane at lower altitude because there's more oxygen in the air for the mixture to combust correctly. I drive a '92 turbo Legacy Touring Wagon LE, and here in Denver I can use the "premium" 89 octane. But at lower altitude I have to use 93-94 octane, or it will start detonating (pinging) like a demon! :madder: While the pinging itself is just annoying, and you don't feel a loss of power, if you use lower octane you're putting yourself at serious risk of burnt exhaust valves. And believe me, they WILL burn...we see them in EJ25s all the time. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
  10. As Skip was so kind to email and point out to me... the intake ports are dual, the exhaust ports are single on all EA82 heads. Geesh! I can only blame it on being exhausted and too darn late to be posting stuff. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
  11. ummm, the MPFI and Turbo versions of the EA82 are dual, the carb and SPFI are single exhaust ports. Remember however, that the pattern for them is different than the EJ series of engines. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
  12. Yep, that's what we use. Technically, Permatex 599 Ultra Gray. Also on practically all other mating surfaces: cam towers, etc. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
  13. Wellllll.....I suppose I might have bad information. I mean, Subaru put the wrong EJ22 crank pulley bolt torque specs in the their first factory manuals, didn't they? :moon: I mean, I couldn't be wrong?!?!?!?!?!! I will go back to the factory manual from whence I got the info originally, and doublecheck it. But I'll tell ya one thing: my turbo at the alledged 160hp will leave any Outback with the same hp eating dust! Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
  14. With all due respect to the work that has been put into the cars101.com website, the info I have on the EJ22 turbo engine is 190hp at 5600 rpm which I got from the Subaru factory technical manuals. I also notice that the Touring Wagon is not included in 1992, but that's what year mine is (pardon the dangling participle) . I know that they are the same engine, and that they were available '92, '93 and '94. (Not sure about '91) Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
  15. That's your typical '97-98 EJ25 DOHC piston style. They changed before and after that. (And, yup...that's a blown head gasket. See 'em every darn day) Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
  16. Is it possible that the receptors have accidentally gotten buried beneath the back seat? Happens all the time in my car.:santa: Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
  17. 190hp stock Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
  18. Dusty, We use turbo bearings in all our EA82 engines. Suggest you hand sand the thrust bearing. (very fine grit emery paper with some oil on it). Place on very flat surface and sand with a light round motion. NPR manufactures rings for Subaru. You can sometimes find them repackaged under the Michigan Clevite brand, or go to a quality import parts store and ask for "genuine" parts...you'll usually find they sell NPR. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
  19. We like a light spray of Permatex Copper Spray A Gasket on both sides of the head gasket just before installation. Helps them keep from slipping and helps them seal well. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
  20. Ummmm, we also do the ER27. What? Did I miss answering another email from somebody???? And yes, we do shortblocks too. Truly, if I miss answering somebody, either shoot me another email, or call me, or leave a number where I can call you...we are soooo busy there are times I dread looking at our email. I swear, some days, I just wanna retire! Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
  21. First, to convert to an EJ25 in a '96, you'd have to change the Y-pipe of the exhaust. ('96 EJ22 has single port exhaust, 2.5 has dual port exhaust). You'll also need the 2.5 intake manifold. Otherwise, you don't need to change the wiring, ECU or much of anything else. But my main question still remains...why would you want to? For a lousy 30hp? Part of which you lose because the 2.5 is a heavier engine. The unreliability of the 2.5 is ridiculous, the fact that it's interferential is also a huge thing to consider. And they're a LOT more money to buy! ps: the '96 EJ25 had hydraulic lifters, they changed to solid lifters in '97 to gain the extra 5hp. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
  22. Didn't wanna post them here. If you need 'em, go to Marketplace :wave: Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
  23. THe NDC number should be something like CB2300, not the one you quoted. Are you absolutely positive these are NDC? Also, Michigan Clevite frequently repackages OEM bearings. You can tell by looking at the end of the bearing. It will have NDC stamped on it. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

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