ccrinc

It's a really good engine. I've had 2 cars with the one in them. One word of caution: DO NOT forgo oil changes! Do them RELIGIOUSLY, FAITHFULLY and REGULARLY. That's the biggest killer of that engine because the engine oil also lubricates the timing components (ALL of them). If you let the oil get low or old, you're not taking good care of an engine that you really DON'T want to work on!

I've had two different cars with the EZ30 engine, a 1992 SVX and a 2001 LL Bean Outback. Man, I loved those cars!

How are you guys still arguing over whether an engine is interferential or not? EVERY SUBARU ENGINE AFTER 1997 is interferential. EVERY.ONE. Geez, I've been gone a few years and you guys are still arguing this point? 🙄 We lost non-interferential in return for a lousy 5Mph power gain. Crap trade if you ask me.

I'd definitely go with Subaru Genuine on the oil seals. I've never seen any aftermarket brands that fit and last like the OEM ones do.

I have a 2009 Forester. EVERY time it is driven under a load (like going up hill, over 42-4500rpm for over 2 minutes), this condition manifests itself. EVERY time. Cruise light flashing and cruise disabled, check engine light on, traction control light on (if you have that). When I put my scanner on it, it always comes up with the PO420 code. Always. But the car runs fine. Both O2 sensors have been checked, cat's ok, no other issues. I have come to the conclusion that there is something about that that thinks the car is being overstressed so I simply don't drive it like that. (My grandson, however,...) So, I clear the code and go on my way. And it will run fine for months, or until grandson drives it again.

I used to use a razor blade glass scraper for the easy stuff. Then 3m synthetic steel wool pads for the rest.

The "coin thing" is a heat tab. If the engine reaches a certain temperature (~280F I think), the center falls out. We used these on our engines for years. Hell, it may even be one of our old rebuilds.

NPR makes the rings for Subaru. They are truly OEM. The only difference from a dealer is the box and the 1000% markup.

So sorry for your loss, Jes. As you know, I think of you and am concerned. Stay safe!

Wow. You guys are still quoting me? How long ago was that?

I decided to go with Phillips H11 upgrade low beam headlight bulbs. I'm fairly happy with the high beams. Also, these come highly recommended. I really did consider HIDs, but these are 30% brighter and I think they'll do the trick. Plus, Amazon had them at a decent price point for a pair.

Thanks everyone! (Didn't mean to start any arguments! ) My daughter and I are taking a road trip next month: Rapid City, SD to Monterey, CA. Through SD, WY, UT and NV there's a lot of empty highway...well, empty except for all those damn deer. I keep my headlight lenses "serviced" so that's not an issue. I'm just not impressed with the stock bulbs in my Forester. My last trip to Denver just confirmed that. I'm only doing the high beams. I don't like being blasted by those new HID lights either. But when it's the issue of me vs. the deer, bright is what I want. I also have to say that I'm sorry I don't check in here more often. Since we closed our shop in 2016 and I'm retired, I just don't get around like I used to. I also fault the 2 spine surgeries I had for that! But y'all are always in my thoughts. Best group of people ever!

Yes, I know I asked this before. And somebody gave me an answer. And I can't find it. Sue me: I know engines, not headlights. What bulbs are good to upgrade mine (low beam) on my 2009 Forester Premium? Trying not to fry the electrical system here. Thanks in advance! (Oh, and hi, guys. Been around some, just not commenting. Hope everyone is well.) Emily

Not only did we use to install this kit, we put one in My Dearly Departed SVX (sniff ). It makes the transmission shift more quickly and firmly: the "softer" shift is what wears on the internal parts so badly. So, yes...I highly recommend it. Emily

Saw those pics from Jes on FB. Awesome light displays! As many of you know, CCR closed in late 2016, but I'm still hanging around. Hard to just leave a 21 year habit! Best of the holidays to everyone and a happy new year too! Emily

If you check out Google, you will see thousands of posts for this same problem, most of them starting in 2009. My 09 Forester has the same thing on a reman'd. engine with less than 3,000 miles on it. I did replace the exhaust manifold and the upstream O2 sensor, but it needed those anyway. If you have a code reader, you can clear/turn the code off. It will stay off until you drive the car fairly hard, like 2nd gear uphill for about a mile. Nobody (especially not the dealers) really know what's going on. The engine runs great, the mileage is about 24mpg (pretty standard) and it's great except that I think the exhaust smells too strong. Note that during the rebuild it got new plugs, wires, etc. and the injectors are good. Meh. Every Subaru "generation" seems to have its own idiosyncrasy. It's part of their charm. Emily

Agree with everything GD said. Frankly, the Justy was a POS. They were fun and economical while they lasted, but they didn't last very long. They had an annoying habit of throwing the #3 rod due to people treating them like the cheapo car they were and not changing oil as they should have, or letting it get low. The last time we did a Justy engine (for someone who was a friend and colleague), we found the parts to be expensive and dealer-only availability IF they could even get them. Nothing on this car changes over from any other model Subaru. Seriously, just walk away. That $5-600 is going to become a few thousand real quick. Emily

I bought a cheap Autel off Amazon. It's just for reading codes (and clearing them). I can get what the codes are off my computer. It works for me on my 2009 Forester.

Super Rupair. Ask for Trent (only!) and tell him Emily sent you. He'll know who you mean right away. 303-442-6508. Biggest independent Subaru repair shop in the area. They aren't cheap, but they do know their Subarus. Boulder maintains the main roads very well. Anywhere in CO, side roads are an afterthought. Emily

No, We may have a few laying around though. Automatic or manual?

Ah, valve stem seals was what first came to mind. I'd bet they're hard and worn out and possibly now crooked because you had to replace valves. Emily

Why does nobody ever think about the torque converter? On the later 4EATs, that is their weakest point. The earlier models were not as sturdy, but Subaru improved the internals a lot in the late '90s. However, the torque converter can (and does) wear out. As long as you're going to be getting the engine out (trust me: on this car you want to take it out to do headgaskets), get a rebuilt torque converter. If the trans. fluid looks and smells good, it's quite possible that's your main issue there. Emily

...and with crappy Autolite plugs! Astounding!

It's true about a car running poorly when leaving Denver for a lower altitude. About a 1500; drop and you can really feel it. As for Knoxville, I'm thinking it's the mix of the fuel itself. Probably less (or more) ethanol.

We used to use all ACL rod and main bearings, but they began outsourcing their "regular" ones to Japan. Bye-bye, ACL! We'll still get their race bearings "when they're available"., which isn't often. So, in looking around for another decent (and decently priced) alternative, we started using King race bearings instead. Made in Israel. The first time we tried them, we didn't like them. Now, they're pretty much state of the art. These days when I see "made in China", I just go "so what else is new?" Remember when people used to say that about Japan? ps: for timing belts on zero tolerance engines, it's Subaru Genuine all the way, IMO!