ccrinc

I will add to the above points: Experience. Also that age does not necessarily reflect experience. I know 20-somethings with tons of experience and 50-somethings who don't know the difference between a radiator and a transmission cooler. Knowledge of the specific product. You can't expect someone who primarily works on German cars to to know Subarus, or Fords for that matter. There are a few (like my husband) who just "get it", no matter what it is, but that's not usually true of most mechanics. Right tools for the job.

Every Subaru engine (except the '97 SVX) from 1997-up is interferential. Good to hear they are taking decent care of you.

Ah. Clevite sells repackaged NDC (OEM) bearings. Rods: CB1217P (specify std., .025, .050.) Mains: Clevite MS1571AL (also specify size) Emily

PM sent

A blow torch is faster. And more fun. Just sayin'...

They are EXACTLY the same. The only reason Subaru shows a different part # is because the set comes with 6 instead of 4. So, buy 2 sets: use 1.5. I get so annoyed with dealer parts people who have no clue and are only going off parts numbers. Hell, most of the dealer techs have never even seen the inside of a block and couldn't tell you why a '98 block is different from a '99 block. Yes, the pistons ARE SPFI pistons. They are not interchangeable with any others because they are directional. You can use the same piston rings, bearings, most of the timing belt idlers, tensioners, (there is one extra, different one for the XT6), the right timing belt is the same as EA82, same piston rings, most of the same seals, same valves and springs. I believe the engine gasket kit is still available. I have the number if you want it. The water pump and oil pump are, I believe, different. Obviously, some of the rubber is different, like the valve cover gaskets. Let me know if you need parts numbers: I may have them. Emily

No 1.8 heads on an EJ22. The bore is smaller and the head gaskets won't fit. The valves are much smaller and have much less flow. The transmissions will bolt up, no problem. And, what he^^^ said about 2wd to AWD.

We already have had some of this conversation: if the crank pulley is bad, you are working at damaging your engine block because of crank walk. And yes, that's where your alternator/ac belts ride. It wobbles, they get thrown. Like I said before, if it was me, I would be having a VERY serious conversation with this dealer. To sell a car with that kind of defect is criminal. Now, other stuff is popping up. I agree with Fairtax: check out the lemon laws (although I think they usually refer to new cars, not used ones). Emily

Let's do the Time Warp again!

...and just a jump the riiiight. (Sorry, couldn't resist! )

Craig, Have to agree with your mechanic: the chance of "blowing" an old engine with head gasket repairs is real. I get attached to my cars too, but I'm lucky: I have family "in the business". If you can't get a decent used engine, I'd go for the diesel Outback. (WOW! You can actually get them there?!?!) Do you know how many people would kill for that chance over here? Emily

No, I was just commenting on the conversion of kgs to psi on your compression test. Of course you can't do a compression test under boost. I think the compression numbers sound good. I did suggest a leak down test which would tell us if you have a problem with the rings or piston: not uncommon with these engines. But I think you're on to something with the injectors. Honestly, I would head over to NASIOC.com to check more on this engine. They will know more about this engine. Emily

My research says 1kg = 14 lbs psi. So, 8kgs = 112 lbs psi of compression. Under boost, that's low. Without boost, that's fairly high. What were you doing JUST before you parked it? Did you let it cool down for a couple of minutes before turning the engine off? (As should be done with ALL turbo engines, every time you drive the car where the turbo kicks in.) See if you can get a leak down test of that cylinder: if it's bad, I'd be looking at a problem with the rings (or piston) in that cylinder. You have an engine that never made it to the USA. Our versions didn't come until 2002 and did have some differences. Even with a known good injector, are you sure that cylinder is getting fuel? (Your English is just fine. I've seen many native "English/American" speakers who don't communicate nearly as well as you do!) Emily

Very cool. Many of our parts come from the Aurora warehouse. We're very fortunate to have one this close.

I'm pretty sure any from 2000 up will fit. Do NOT drive it!!!! When the pulley wobbles, your crank is moving front to rear in the case (called crank walk). This can destroy the entire engine! I would be having a VERY serious conversation with that dealership, the BBB, the local dealer's board and anyone else who will listen because their refusal to even look at it without charging you (way too much, I might add) is literal highway robbery. Emily

They're only about $8 from the dealer!

The 1990-'96 EJ22 engines were 9.5:1 compression ration. 1997-2002 EJ22s are all 9.7:1 compression ratio. The early ones were designed to run on regular unleaded, the '97-up on mid-grade. You shouldn't ever have to go over that. Emily

AC: Needs a coolant refill, probably has a leak in the system Cruise control: could be fuse, speed sensor on any wheel or directly related to the transmission Ceiling light: burnt out bulb. (duh) Check engine light: pull codes as others have said. Check with dealer for recall. 1) Get an owner's manual! They are available from the dealer. Might find one one eBay too. One of my husband's favorite comments: "Ya gotta be smarter than what you're working on". I think I may add it to my sig.

Depends on the engine: Since all of ours are remans, we require non-synth for at least the first 5,000 miles EXCEPT on newer turbo engines. Those get dino-blend oil for the first 1,000 miles, then full synth. Newer EJ25 SOHC also switch earlier. The newest (2010 and later), get full synth after 500 miles. That initial break in period for the rings to seat properly is extremely important. Castrol GTX, Valvoline; our favorite dino oils. Valvoline full synth: favorite synthetic. However, customers can use any GOOD quality brand as long as attention is paid to oil change intervals and levels. For older engines (pre-2000), we recommend 10w30 winter and 10w40 for summer. In newer engines, we tell people to follow their owner's manuals but to heed oil change intervals according to our warranty. I will NOT recommend Amsoil, Redline or Mobil-1. Some people swear by them, but there are just too many horror stories circulating to trust those brands. As you know, what works great in a V8 isn't always good for a Subaru.

This problem of oil consumption in the 2011-2014 engines is so well documented it's even made evening national news. http://oppositelock.kinja.com/subaru-tsb-for-excessive-oil-consumption-1600566355 Subaru, BMW and Audi vehicles are also affected. http://autoweek.com/article/car-news/your-car-oil-consumption-problem-list Check the oil at least twice a week and keep oil in the car to top off. "Just a quart low" is TOO low. If you drive long distances, check daily. As long as you keep oil in the engine, plus change it regularly, while it may be a huge PITA, the engine should be ok. The turbo engines have a different problem: they have oiling issues due to oil journals mainly in the rod bearings being too small. We have switched over to King Race Bearings for all 2.5 SOHC plus 2002-on turbo engines to help solve this problem. Even the venerable ACL Race bearings (which are currently unobtainium) aren't up to the turbo oiling issues. Emily

Ask about a CPO (Certified Pre Owned). Save money, get good well cared for and thoroughly check out car with a warranty! Emily

Larry, No reason not to save them, but there's now metal flakes all through the oil and coolant passages. They HAVE to be thoroughly disassembled and cleaned or that will end up in the next engine! Emily

Once any Subaru overheats, especially repeatedly, the head gaskets are, at the very least, damaged. Every time it happens, they get worse. There is no "maybe" about it. Now, as to what actually caused it, yeah, it could be an air bubble, bad thermostat, failing radiator, coolant leak from hoses, etc, etc, etc.

I second gb's comments, but as a short woman myself, and having had both models, I can tell you that the Forester does offer one more advantage over the Outback: it has better visibility for a short driver. Emily

I'm going out on a limb here and say your turbo is shot.