Rpm90001

Honestly, I'm sure they never even opened the hood on the car. Everything including checking oil was done by the dealer. Its dark out now, I will check it tomorrow. If it is sticking in the bore, and it has been like that for a while should I see some wear at the sticking point? Location of the screw? I'm sure I will find it when it's daylight, it should obvious.... I don't remember looking at the butterfly when I did the head gaskets, I covered it as soon as I took the air box off. Can I reach the plate with my fingers? If I can reach it, I might be able to verify if that is what is sticking. I'm sure it's not the cable. And last... If the plate is out of adjustment, Just Re-adjust it just till it's no longer square in the bore (completely closed) my guess is this is the only way it would stick. Sorry for all the questions...if this was a Hayabusa motor or a small block ford I would not have a problem. Thank you for all the help.. With the help here, I have worked out most all my cars issues. Geo

Thanks, I do not think it was ever touched, I bought it from an older couple who were the original owners and only touched by the dealer. It would of had to be messed with by them if it was moved. Think the 2 issues are related? Is there any signs that will tell me if it was messed with? If this is the problem, is there a correct way to put it back? Thanks, Geo

Another small issue in my new to me 00 legacy My gas pedal sticks many times when I am at a stoplight and I try and go again. It feels like I have to get past a barrier or sticky spot and then it gives way. This causes me to give it more gas than I want to and make the car jump forward. What could cause this? It seems to happen when the car gets a little more warmed up and never right away when it's cold. It does not stick hard, you just have to push it slightly harder to get it unstuck, with a manual trans it makes it a little hard to match the throttle and clutch timing. This may have something to do with the idle problem I'm experiencing, the idle drops very low almost to the stalling point when I stop at a light. It will idle super low. Anyone see a connection? The cables are fine, I can feel it with out the cables connected. Anyone ever have this problem. Again, its slight stick, but enough to make it a pain to drive. Thanks, G

Very cool. I will change them. Its nice to hear this may not be a big issue. The car is new to me, tryed it today for the first time..and nothing but warm air. I have an o ring kit here with about 30 different sizes. I have never had ac that Did not work.

Anyone know if a good write up on how to diagnosis a ac problem on a Subaru? Just blows hot air. I don't know the history of when it last worked. Looking for some type of diagnostic chart to follow, or member write up. Thanks, Geo

Sleek works perfect and still no codes. Thanks

Update..I put the car on the road today, car runs and drives like a dream, when I put the clutch in at a stop sign or red-light the idle drops to about nothing almost stalls then will rise to what I would say is normal rpm. It takes a few seconds for it to get back to normal. No CEL I drove it 30 miles, town and highway driving. Anyone have a suggestion on where to start looking? I did change the knock sensor due to p0325 code, bought the car that way. Help me figure this one out. I did not drive the car before I bought it, but dont remember it having an issue. Runs great, just almost stalls when coming to a stop. Also, I don't think it's an issue, but the 1/2 tank of gas is 3 months old. I bought the car 3/11/11 it's the gas that came in the car. Thanks, G

I'm going to add it to my 00 legacy, just did the head gaskets and don't know if it is actualy needed. I don't like the stuff, but I can say...while taking apart my motor there was no evidence that the "conditioner"was ever in in the motor. It was added by Subaru 60 k ago. I seen nothing..and I looked closely even cut open the old hoses, motor was completely clean. I don't like the idea of having to put the stuff in, but I think the risk is very low if it is added.

I love my f150, not getting rid of it. I got a deal of the century on my Subaru,and looking forward to something different. I just got my knock sensor from advanced. I used the promo code BIG30 from the link Durania posted got $30 off, came to $57 I figured it was worth a shot. Ordered online with in store pick up. I still pinch myself.. I picked up this 00 legacy l 120 k for $300 Runs like a new car, came with new tires,brakes and exhaust. The only issue was a weeping head gasket and a deer hit the front fender and corner of the hood. I replaced the fender, head gaskets, resealed the motor,timing belt and tensioner and rollers, clutch and pp air,oil,fuel filters,thermostat,all hoses,water pump, every fluid changed, accessory belts,now the knock sensor. Original owner did not want to deal with the cost of the head gasket and the deer issue. They would of had to pay someone. To me it was like hitting the lottery. I have about $1400 into it including the price of the car.

Thanks, My dealer would not match on line dealers prices. They would not even get it close. Best they would do is $108. I just bought $1400 OE parts through online Subaru dealers. If my dealer worked with me a little better, I would of bought locally. I might try a auto zone or advance auto sensor. Seems like everyone is having luck with them. I just did not want to wait to order it , my plan is to put it on the road tomorrow. I have been driving my f150 since 97 looking forward to something a little better on gas thanks for the info. Geo Thanks for the coupon codes:banana:

Ok thinking of breaking my own rule. I normal always buy OE parts, but my dealer wants $118 for a knock sensor on my 00 legacy. And I don't want to wait again to order one. On line price $74 if I order it. My question is anyone buy an aftermarket knock sensor? If so, what brand did you buy and did you have any problems. I will probably just order it, but if no one has any problems with non OE parts I my give it a shot. It's the last part I need and the car is done. Thanks, Geo

Well i live in NY and with the winters and the salt it is not something I wanted to leave open. I figure is Subaru put it there is is there for a reason. Living In The rust belt of the US I figured it was smart to install it. Not to mention it would just bug the he'll out of me. It's not the first mistake I have made in my years.. A few years ago I thought my f150 clutch was slipping at certain rpms and under load. I bought a new clutch from ford, took the tranny out and replaced clutch and pp. The one I took out looked great, I started to get a little worried. Got it back in and took it for a ride hoping for the best..well still the same. A few days later I got in some heavy rain and it was slipping again like crazy... Then it hit me...that night I popped the hood and I had a bad spark plug wire. It was arcing like crazy. Changed the plug wires and it ran better than it ever has... Another leson learned.

Now that would of put me over the edge, no resealing here just some extra time. At least the motors in, and 0 leaks! And started with a tap of the key, just like it was never out... Accept the idle was very low..but seems to better after letting it run for a while. I'm guessing it was from having the battery unhooked for a month. Now I just have to order a knock sensor, it was bad before I started this project, I thought it would mysteriously fix itself. Well anyway, glad I'm not the only one who did this, but hope someone who reads this does not make this mistake. I also mark and label everything, my black sharpie is one of my most used tools, I mark everything. Re installing the motor only took about 2 hrs alone. No guessing and no left over parts. Geo

Just a little advise for the rookies out there whe are pulling and reinstalling their Subaru motor.. I just put my 00 2.5 legacy motor in and when I put it back in I did not put the cover back on the bottom of the motor that covers the clutch/flywheel. I figured I would do it once installed. Well that was not a very smart move. You can not access it once the motor is in. I did not realize this before completely finishing my install. It was not a hard fix, but time consuming. Had to jack the motor back out of the mounts to get to it. Anyways.. Do not forget to install the cover before putting the motor back. I won't ever forget that again.

Yes, battery disconnected for about 1 month. I will check again, but I only had to disconnect 3 or 4 lines. Brake booster, pcv, and 1 to air box. I will Check again. It runs very smooth, just low idle Thanks for the help G

I just reinstalled my 2.5 motor in my 00 legacy L with manual trans. Here is a list of changes. Head gaskets oem both resurfaced heads, no warp just to clean them up. Oem timing belt w/ all rollers and tensioner Oem air filter Oem fuel filter Oem thermostat Oem hoses Oem reseal kit Exedy replacement clutch/pressure plate/bearings Oil change oem filter Subaru coolant/ di water Oem water pump I installEd the motor yesterday and it started at a tap of the key and runs very smooth and very quiet. Today I started it and runs great, but the idle is very low 4-500 rpm runs smooth just low. The battery has been unhooked for weeks and a lot of new parts. Does the computer have to "relearn" driving habits? I don't have a CEL at least not yet. I drove it around the block a few times, and let it idle for about 30 minute while adding coolant. Any suggestions on what to check? The idle was fine before all the changes Geo

Would this be considered High temp grease ok to grease the spline and clutch fork parts. I have a tub of this already. Here is a link. I'm also open for suggestions. http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/synpower/grease/63#b Update....got it covered. Grease came with the exedy clutch kit. I did not see it In there, going to use what exedy sent.

Do any of you guys add the coolant conditioner (stop leak) after installing new head gaskets? I used Genuine Subaru gaskets in the change, just wondering what is commonly done. The subaru web site said at 35k they put it in the system, started leaking 120k. I don't like the stuff, but will add it if needed. Thanks, G

Thank you everyone. GD that is what I was hoping to hear. I know I had everything set correctly. Thanks again G

Is it blowing in to your overflow bottle? Where are you actualy seeing the bubbles? In my opinion, if your cooling system is filled correctly and you are getting bubbles and or bubbling in your overflow sounds like the system is getting pressurized by a leak in the combustion chamber. You may not see it in your oil, or in your exhaust, you may not even overheat. It does seem that you should smell it in the overflow.. The combustion chamber is a lot higher pressure than your cooling system, you could have a small leak between the chamber and and water jacket causing the bubbles. You would not see oil in the antifreeze,or antifreeze in the oil, or exhaust. It just may leak under high pressure during the combustion stroke, so air keeps getting pushed in the system with no other symptoms. This is just my thought.. Hope you get it worked out and turns out to be something very simple like an air bubble in the system. That would be my first step. Be 1000 % sure there is no air in the system . Good luck.

O. Thank for the advice. Glad to see you here too! I want to put the motor in, but would like to hear someone say " yep that's normal". I think it's my OCD kicking in...I just can't let it go.

By memory I used the colored dot on the crank gear, and the key on the crank was in the down position. I replaced the cam seals, but did them 1 at a time so I know I did not mix them up. Geo

Turning it over clockwise. It just sounded funny, that's why I put my hand over it. I just did not expect it to create any vacuum at the exhaust port Maby I'm just looking into this a bit much. Just did not seem right, but if something is wrong I want to correct it while it is on the stand

Ok, ***I'm almost embarrassed to ask this question.. With 30 years working on cars an bikes this seems like something I should know..but anyways... I just finished doing head gaskets on my 00 legacy 2.5 also did the timing belt and all the rollers and tensioner. ***My question is ( hidding my face). While turning the motor over by hand on the engine stand, I put my hand over the exhaust port and there was a hell of a lot of vacuum created while turning the motor over, ***it would also puts a lot of air depending on where I was in the stroke. *** Is it normal to create any vacuum at the exhaust port? *** I'm near 99.9 percent sure I have the timing correct. ***I'm ready to drop this motor back in, but this has me a little confused. ***Someone put my mind at ease... Thanks for any help.. G

Well it's all back together. Going to try to install it this weekend. I took my time and feel I should not have any issues, well crossing my fingers. This was my first Subaru experience and enjoyed the change. Hope the car will work out. I picked it up for $300 due to a weeping head gasket and a dent in the fender from a deer. replaced all the seals and gaskets accept the rear main due to every ones advice. Car came with new tires,brakes, and exhaust. old owner did not want to spend the money to fix it. while doing the head gaskets, I changed the water pump, resealed the oil pump, timing belt and all the rollers, all hoses, Tstat,air filter, fuel filter, all gasket that came in the reseal kit, Clutch,pressure plate and bearrings used all OEM accept spark plug wires and clutch (exedy) It should be dam good car for the $1200 I got in to it. I just have to get the hood and fender painted. 2000 Legacy L 120 K Thanks for every ones help! I'm sure I will call on you again. Geo