Rpm90001

The computer loses its programming after battery disconnect, it takes time for it to relearn it's idle. Yu just need to drive it. Has it cleared up?

That my plan for now. Should I replace anything elese while it's apart? Do the strut mounts normally go bad? Or bearings in the mount? I'm going to order from fredbeans tonight, I don't want to order stuff I don't need. Car drives great the way it is, but now looking closely, the right front is a little lower in the front. Geo

Well, the streak had to end. 25 years without ever failing a NYS inspection...I took my legacy in for inspection and it failed for a broken right front spring. I always do my own inspection before taking a car in, but I was confidant there was no problem. Car rides very nice and sits level. Anyways.. Anyone have any recomendations... I can just change the 2 front springs and call it good... Or just replace everything. I believe them to be original, but changing all 4 corners with springs and struts is going to be some serious money, and it is a great ride now. If I change everything, does anyone make a drop in unit, or do I have to order springs and struts separate? Looking for a soft ride, this is 100% daily driver. Want oem stance and ride. 2 oem springs $66 if I go with the the 2 springs, do another parts normally need to be replaced when changing just springs? Thanks, Geo

Yes, with the battery unhooked you may get high or low idle. I just went through the same thing. Drive it a little, I usually will fix it's self. Mine gets screwy every time I disconnect the battery, but clears up shortly after driving.

That's what I just did, snugged it down, added a little soapy water and no leak. Added a can of 134a just till the line stayed cold and that took 1 can. I got super ice cold air. Took it for a ride and wow... I will be very happy if that was the only leak. I see no green any place accept in the valve. I have to bet is still a littl low, but I will wait to see if it lasts, than I will have it checked to see if it needs more. It's working great now, I'm not going to mess with it.

I have a question about A/C system. I bought a 00 legacy and the ac does not work, just warm air. I do not hear the compressor kick on, I think the freon is just too low. Talked to the original owners that are friends of ours, they never used the A/C she said they never even turned it on. They bought it with 23 k. Anyways... After running the car, I took the cap off the fill port and can see a leak in the valve. Small bubbles are visible. I have to believe the system is still slightly pressurized, but very low. I have replacement valves and a green oring kit. Do I just slowly release what is in the system in to the air, or take it to have it vacuumed out. I know what everyone will say, but I will burn at least a gallon of gas to get to the ac shop. That has to be worse. Once the system is empty, what orings should be changed? While the system is empty what else should I do before taking it to be charged? Any tips, warnings,or no no's or advice is welcome. Common issues with Subaru system? Also, is there a way to jump the wiring for the compressor to make sure it will engage? Thanks, Geo

Just my opinion, if the motor really has 16 k on it, I really think changing any undamaged components is a little over kill. Normally I would say if it's apart change it, but with 16 k I would only replace the damaged parts, as long as you figured out the reason It jumped.

I agree on the dieseling, that's the only way it will run after the car is shut down. Sounds like carbon build up that is staying red hot acting as a spark plug. once the carbon is cleaned up that problem should go away. Make sure to do the full treatment of sea foam and follow the directions, you need to remove the carbon deposits. Just my opinion..

I thought the motor was turning. When I did the head gaskets I remember it did not take muct to turn the motor over. I guess I have to be careful and not forget the e- brake

Is it normal for a legacy clutch not to hold on a slightly sloped driveway when In 1st gear with out the ebrake on? The drive way is on about a 25 degree slope, and the car will slowly got down the driveway if I don't have the brake on. Just wondering if it's normal? My f150 never had this problem. The Subaru has a new exedy clutch kit (oem replacement). I may even be the motor turning over for all I know. Just wondering.. Geo

Service dept was already gone when I called. I will try tomorrow. I was just wondering.

Is there any time limits on recalls, looks like wwm96 is still open on my Subaru. 1st owner never had it done. The car is a 2000 legacy L. Anyone have this done? Estimated Mileage: 124,840 – Update Upcoming Service: – Schedule Service Warranty: – Read More Guaranteed Trade-In Program: Get Value Recall Notice: Rear Suspension Sub-frame Corrosion Subaru of America, Inc. has determined that your vehicle may have been manufactured with rear suspension sub-frames with poor paint quality. If the vehicle is operated for an extensive period in a "salt-belt" area, continued exposure to salt could cause the rear sub-frame assembly to rust-out and eventually break. If the sub-frame were to break, control of the vehicle could be affected without prior warning, possibly resulting in an accident. If you encounter this situation, please steer the vehicle off the roadway to a safe area in which to stop. To prevent this condition from occurring, Subaru will clean and apply anti-rust material to the rear sub-frame assembly at no cost to you. Please contact your Subaru dealer for an appointment to have this anti-rust material applied to your vehicle at no cost to you.. Your continued satisfaction with your Subaru is important to us. Please understand that we have taken this action in the interest of your safety and your vehicle's proper operation. We sincerely apologize for any inconvenience this matter may cause and urge you to schedule an appointment to have this repair performed as soon as possible. View Recalls

well a few hundred miles on the car now. light has not come back on. so far so good. The sensor was made by Borg Warner.

There is no way you are going to snap an oil pan bolt if you are torqueing them to spec. I don't think you have any thing to worry about. I forgot what the spec is, but it's not much more than snug, but new bolts would look pretty with a new pan. I sand blasted the outer shell of mine and painted with 4 coats Of implement paint and a coat of clear. I live in upstate ny and the pan was rusted badly, but solid. Looked like new. Good luck

I just did mine with 3m ultra black. I just put a small bead down in a small area and smeared I with my finger to flatten out the bead. Bolted the pan down on that side, then removed it to see if I had enough or to much. I did this twice. Once I seen the correct amount that is the size bead I used. When I took it off the second time, it was perfect, just fully covered the surface with out any extra oozing outside the gasket surface. May not be the normal way to do it, but I know I have the perfect amount. I did not want to guess and end up with too much sealer and it gitting in the pan. My legacy has been so far 100% leak free. Also, I did put the bead around the bolt holes. The PDF file to the ultra black said to put a bead around the holes.

Mine looked horrible when I removed them to reseal the pan during head gasket change. I was going to replace them, but took them to my brass wire wheel and they cleaned up like new. I poked them trough cardboard and gave the heads a coat tractor black paint. They looked like new. The wire wheel also took all the old gasket material out of between the washer and bolt head.

If you take it to the shop, and the vac the system, you will know there is a leak, The pressure will drop and they will see that. Same as pressurizing the system with nitrogen, you will see a drop if it is leaking. I don't think a good shop will add freon to a leaking system. Geo

Do I really need the glasses and light, the valve that is leaking is so green you just can't miss it. It seems if it was leaking anyplace else, I would be able to see it. I really stands out, but it was also sealed under the cap. After I drive it, I can pull off the cam a see small bubbles. This would be great if it was the only leak.

The throttle stop might just get a little worn out allowing it to close a bit more. There was no paint on mine, I don't know for sure if it was ever messed with, I highly doubt it.. But it is possible. Anyways, day 2 and runs perfect. Geo

I went out to look over the system to see if anything stood out. I took the caps off both hoses and noticed small bubbles of green liquid in one of the Schrader valves ( if thats what they call them for ac) Looks like the previous Owners may of had some type of dye in the system. I looked all over for any dye and have not found anything, looks like the valve is leaking. Is their a seal on the valve? Or do I replace the whole stem? Dealer only part? Suggestions more than welcome. Thanks, Geo

GD... You were right on, got out there today and I could feel it sticking when opening the butterfly with my fingers. Everything was pretty clean. I loosened the nut just a little, turned the screw a hair at a time till the moment there was no sticking. It was almost like not moving it at all it was so little. Throttle is no longer sticking at all! And idle no longer drops and sticks there. Another issue fixed! Thank you. I shouldnt say it, but it runs so good, I have to keep looking at the tach to make sure it's still running. Thank you!!! Geo

The can feel it when moving the throttle by hand, the sticking is in the throttle it's self.

Amazon is $143.99 and it's free shipping.. I have seen it as low as 138.00 but have to pay for shipping and amazon is listed a exedy dealer, so you know it's not a knock off kit. On exedys web site they tell you how to spot a fake low quality kit. I guess it is a problem, some counterfeits out there.

Thanks everyone, you all are a great help. Ni worked late tonight, but will cheek it as soon as I get a minute. It's first on my list. I'm sure it's not the cables because I felt it when the cables wer disconnected when opening it by hand. I never looked inside, I covered it as soon as the air box came off and just never looked. Today it did not stick, and the idle was normal. This is my second day actualy driving this car. I tore it apart as soon as I got it. Thanks again, I will post what I find. The people here have been a tremendous help with this car. Geo

I just bought the KSB04 clutch kit from amazon, got it fast, you can trust it's not a knockoff kit.. I installed it and it feels like the factory clutch. Mine is a family car and gets zero abuse. I'm very happy with the clutch and dealing with amazon. One tip, you may want to replace the clips that holds the bearing in the spline. Mine were weak and rusted I think they were $11 for for the 3 at the dealer. The kit came with the correct grease, both bearings,clutch and pressure plate and centering tool. One other tip..check the shift fork boot, this will be the time to change it, if it is anything like mine, there was nothing left of it. Cost me $21 at the dealer, from what I have seen they do not last. For me the ksbo4 through amazon was a great deal. I had no issues.