Rpm90001

GD, I printed your instructions and went out to change the slave. I took my mity vac and vacuumed out the old fluid out of the MC, filled with new. Took the vac and attached to the old slave to pull the rest of the old out before installing the new slave. Once clear, I removed the old and replaced it with the new slave cylinder. Hooked up my vac pump to the new slave to pull fluid through it. I filled the mc 3 times and pulled it through the system. Closed the bleeder and went to see if there was any pedal. Pedal felt perfect. It was no longer sluggish, and felt nice and firm. I took it about 20 miles through town and it was perfect the whole way. Feels totally different than before. I took it for a second ride back to advance auto an hr later and still perfect. To bleed the system I never had the push the pedal a single time, I just my mityvac. The whole install and bleed took 25 minutes ( well 4 songs from the bat out of he'll cd). Boy I think I got lucky. Have you ever tried using a Mityvac Thank you for the instructions, I was ready to follow them 100%. But never had to go that far. I always here people complaining about the mityvac, I use mine all the time and love it. I just used it to change out my brake fluid when I did the brakes..I think is a great took if used correctly. Geo

GD Thanks, i found a set at advanced auto. They are a perfect, but will match them up when i remove the slave. If they dont match, i will re use the old ones. I have re used them before, but with everyone saying the system is a pain to bleed, i figured just replace them. Geo

I got my new slave cylinder for my 00 legacy. I can't seem to find any of the crush washers for the hose. Anyone know the size? Or have a part number for auto zone or advanced or napa? I would rather not reuse them. Thanks

Why not borrow a quality set from autozone? HoW often are you going to do struts? If you do them again...just borrow another set. I feel the quality of the loaner set is very good. I always buy tools when I need them, I have done struts on 3 cars in the last 20 years all 3 I borrowed. It cost you zero. Here is a link to the same set they loan out. You basically pay for it and they refund your money when you bring it back. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-MacPherson-strut-spring-compressor/_/N-26gi?itemIdentifier=70135&_requestid=491329

My 2000 legacy, there is not a chance in hell to do the rear with out a spring compressor. If there is it's a not a 00 legacy sedan. If you have 225k on the don't wast the time doing just the springs. I had a broken front spring, I was just going to change the front springs an call it good. I was changing them to pas inspection. When I got them apart, both top mount bearings were bad, and the struts were totally shot, there was no resistance when expanding and contracting them. It is a lot of work to swap springs on to struts that have 200+ k on them. Mine were shot at 122. I did not see any leaks. I got monroe sensatrac from advance auto. Amazon wanted $255 for all 4, advance auto matched the price for me.

Omg..I could of wrote this same post... That was me,whacking the compressors to move them a little to get the socket on. They were stuck on the strut body.

Any reason not to use my mityvac? Going to change it tomorrow if the part is in stock. Thanks

This morning I got in and it worked fine, but only drove a few miles to work and back. Is it common for a bad slave cylinder to act this way? Get bad on longer trips, but be fine on shorter ?

I'm going through almost the same thing. I don't know what year yours is...but here is a TSB I found while looking into my issue. Clutch cylinder Clutch Slave Cylinder TSB NUMBER: 03-52-03R DATE: 07/15/03 APPLICABILITY: 1995-2002MY Legacy; 1997-2003MY 2.5L Impreza; and 1998-2003MY Forester Vehicles. All models have Manual Transmission. SUBJECT: Clutch Pedal Sticking (revised) INTRODUCTION In the event you encounter a customer complaint of the clutch pedal not returning completely after being engaged, or has a spongy pedal feel or a light feel in the shifting pedal while shifting, the following repair method should be followed. This condition may affect certain manual transmission vehicles with a hydraulic clutch system under certain weather conditions. PROCEDURE To correct this condition you must replace the parts in the chart that match your vehicle using the following procedure: For Natural Aspiration models with hydraulic clutches 1) Remove the intake chamber from the backside of the intake manifold. 2) Remove the clutch hose and the clutch operating cylinder in this procedure it is not necessary to remove the master cylinder, the clutch pipe and bracket. 3) Replace the clutch hose and the clutch operating cylinder with new parts as listed in the chart. Note that two pieces of gasket (P/N 114130151) used on the connector of the operating cylinder must be replaced with new ones when replacing the clutch hose. Tightening torque of the bolt is: 37 +/- 3 Nm (3.8 +/- 0.3 kgm) or 27 +/- 2 ft. lbs. 4) Bolt the operating cylinder onto the transmission. 5) Add brake fluid. 6) Bleed the air from the system. 7) Install the intake chamber. 8) Check the following items: a) Insure there is no leakage from the line, check whether fluid leakage occurs after the clutch pedal has been fully depressed. Check whether the clutch performs normally. For Turbo models 1) Remove the intercooler. 2) Remove the dutch operating cylinder hose. In this procedure, the clutch master cylinder, clutch pipe and bracket are unnecessary to be removed. 3) Replace the clutch hose that was removed with the new one listed in the chart. Note that two pieces of gasket (P/N 114130151) used on the connector of the operating cylinder must be replaced with new ones when replacing the clutch hose. Tightening torque of the bolt is: 37 +/- 3 Nm (3.8 +/- 0.3 kgm) or 27 +/- 2 ft.lbs. 4) Add brake fluid. 5) Bleed the air from the system. 6) Install the intercooler. 7) Check the following items: a) Insure there is no leakage from the line, check whether fluid leakage occurs after the clutch pedal has been fully depressed. Check whether the clutch performs normally. This change was incorporated in production after the VIN numbers shown.

Some good tips, but why are you using the spring compressor while removing and installing the strut. That seems like a total PIA . I just used my impact, took no time at all. Anyways, I just borrowed one from auto zone, it was a better quality than hf and did not cost anything. Just make sure to mark each part so you can assemble it the same way it came apart. I won't kid you, it is a pain in the rear. The rear springs are easier. Just make sure to compress the spring equally or it makes it hard to get back together. Makes it easier if you are using the same springs. I changed springs also so it was twice the work.

It's the only fluid in the car I did not change, I did not touch it during clutch Install/ head gasket change. Seems everyone had same type of problem after clutch change and hot weather. It fully detracts to the top when my foot is off the pedal, but feels funny half way to the top.

I have about 275 miles on my new clutch, and 250 of them was just a few miles to work and back at a time. I drove it a little more today, jumped on the highway and some town driving. For the last few days the clutch pedal started feeling a little funny. I would press the clutch, and when I let it up, the first half feels fine, I get to the 50% position then it snaps to the top. I had no real problems yet shifting, just 1 time time going in to 3rd. If I go to press the clutch there is not much resistance the first half, after that feels normal. Very annoying..it just not a smooth push. I just got home with it, and can't look at it till tomorrow afternoon, so looking for some sugestions before I get in to it. Also should it was about 100 degrees here today, noticed the most on very hot days. My guess is air in the line, but how? It was fine the first few hundred miles.. I just drove it a lot more today. Is this a common problem? First place to start looking? Sound like air in the system? Update..just found a tsb on this issue, mine does not actualy stick, it always comes back to the top, but like I mentioned half way up looses it spring. My foot is almost off the pedal before it hits the top. Slave cylinder and hose? Is ther a way to check for sure? Or just change and see. Thanks Geo

That does not seem like enough to drain it overnight, Check My gut says it's not the radio, but sounds like the best place to start. Good luck

I just got mine back, took t in for the recall, looks like they took a can of under coating and sprayed the rear frame, very poorly I might add.. Missed 50% of it. I bought my own cans an sprayed the he'll out of it. Im luckey no rot on the frame and I live in NY.

I don't know why you are having such a problem Auto zone. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Permatex-3-5-oz-99-g-tube-Ultra-Grey-rigid-High-Torque-RTV-silicone-gasket-maker/_/N-25a0?itemIdentifier=306563&_requestid=1538000 Amazon free shipping http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-Ultra-Gasket-Maker/dp/B000HBGI8K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1311103429&sr=8-1 Advance auto http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Ultra-Grey&174;-Rigid-High-Torque-RTV-Silicone-Gasket-Maker-Permatex_7160017-P_N2131_T%7CGRP2132____ If auto zone or advanced don't have it in stock, it only takes a day to get.

I did this on my motorcycle, it would be great till the strip it and find it, not to many hiding spots on a bike.

My guess would be bad terminal / corroded connection on either battery terminal or ground point. Check all ground points on the ground cable, and all connections of the positive cable. I would actualy un bolt them and wire brush both surfaces. Replace the loose terminal. In your first post, you wrote it would click and then sometimes turn over. Classic symptom of a bad connection or corroded cable. Your alt looks fine to me. I just went through this on my truck. Every other day it would not turn over, new alt and battery with in the year. Had a corroded connection on the starter and frayed ground wire that was corroded. Check your pos and neg cables. What was the result of the load test on the battery? Above 9.7? What about voltage with out it running? Above 12.6 or close? Also, your meter should measure low amps on the un fused side. Up to 20?? For a short period. Check your manual...

My 2000 has 3 bolts on top for he front, 2 on top for the rear.

Voltage should not be low on a battery that new. What was the voltage when tested?

Well here is what I recently did to my $300 Subaru. Replaced from fender, still looking for hood due to deer hit. Front foglight Head gaskets and resealed whole motor Timing belt and all rollers Tensioner Water pump Reseal oil pump Separator plate Clutch and pressure plate and bearings knock sensor Every fluid in the car Belts All hoses Thermostat Radiator cap Front struts and oem springs Rear shocks/ original springs Rear rotors and pads New tires Headlight adjustment Cabin air filters Full recon Install my xm radio Charged ac changed high and low valve Installed missing plastic wheel well Oem air filter and PVC valve Valve adjustment ------------------- Came with 2 new tires New head light New exhaust New front brakes I think I'm about covered for a while. I'm still well under 2k in to my legacy

I know mine will lose the code when the problem is corrected.. Example. P0325 knock sensor in my 2000 legacy replaced and drove it to the cottage 50+ miles away, checked it with the scanner when I got there and if was gone. My scanner is older actron, it did not bring up the old code, as long as it is corrected I believe they disappear.

On the 2000 legacy, open the glove box, I just squeeze the 2 sides of the of the glove box and drop it open. Once open there is about 6-8 screws to remove the glove box. Behind the glove box I had a wiring harness connector plugged in th the filter door, unplug the connector and look for 4 clips in the same area of the connector. Pop the clips off, use the tip of a small screw driver. Once the clips are removed, the door will slide down a little then remove. At a glance, I does not look like a door is even there, it blends in to the surrounding very good. Once removed, I had to install the top filter first, then the small bottom filter. The crap filters got from amazon fit very well. Just bad filter quality.

Update********. I apologize to anyone who ordered these filters with the link above to amazon. There is a reason they were $10. The quality was extremely poor! And thats being nice. The filter element was not even attached to the sides, there was gaps all the way around. Total garbage. Lucky I had some hvac metal tape, and was able to seal the edges. The only reason I did not send them back was I wanted the frames. Mine did not come with them, at least the fit was very good. What good is a filter if it's not attached to the frame. Also the filter material was very poor. Anyways...if you are looking for an alternative to oem, stay away from the TWC brand. Geo

Mine is a 2000 legacy l sedan. I don't know if they are any more for other years. Link to mine. http://www.parts.com/oemcatalog/index.cfm?action=getPartLocator&siteid=2&chapter=ARL7522&sectionids=19,2512&groupid=2523&subgroupid=2340&componentid=9499&makeid=32&model=Legacy&year=2000&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0

Back springs were cake compared to the front. There is more spring coils for the spring compressor. I used my impact on the compressor but I oiled the threads real good. I had no issues. I bought new OEM Subaru springs, very inexpensive. $31 for the front, I ordered from Fred beans, but they actualy came from parts.com. I would buy directly from parts.com they were a little cheaper. Front springs are a pain, it is hard to situate the compressor on the spring to evenly compress. Taking them the apart is cake, but I won't get in not that. My biggest tip is to mark each part of the spring componets before it's apart. Your spring will sit in a certain way, the rubber and top mount will all need to be installed the same. I have a paint pen and just put a dot on each part. Another issue I had was tightening the top strut nut. I just took a 19 ml socket and held it with vice grips, this left the top open so I could use a Alen wrench to hold the shaft. Worked very well. Once tight I was able to torque it. Rear shocks I had to put a jack under the bottom of the new shock to compress it up enough to put in the bottom shock bolt. The shock was about 2 inches lower than the shock mount. Not a problem with a small jack to put it in position. This project started with a broken spring, but ended up with struts and top mounts. When I went to change the springs, the struts were so bad you could move the shaft with no resistance. It is a huge pain in the rear to swap springs. Next time I will take them to a shop and have them swap the over, most shops have a hydraulic spring compressor and it is a piece of cake. I don't have a clue on cost...but if you do it on your own you will see. Removal and installation is a piece of cake. I ended up buying Monroe sensatrac, from advance auto. They matched amazon.com price of $225 I was looking for a factory ride. KYb was my first choice, but they had Monroe in stock. Ps...don't forget to mark the camber bolt position. I believe it's the top bolt of the 2 mark the bolt head and not the nut. This way you can put it back the same position. Good luck