Rpm90001

I just installed my drawtite trailer hitch and wiring harness.....well almost.. I ran the power wire that goes to the battery under the carpet and got it to under the dash. The problem is, I can't find an access hole to run the wire to the engine compartment. I just quit because it's late and will finish it in the morning. Anyone know if a good access spot to run the power wire? I believe it is a 12g wire. Figured I would ask here to see if anyone ran into this problem. This is the first car I could not find a access spot. Also, the drawtite hitch hangs a lot lower than I thought... Not to happy with design. Thanks, Geo

Sorry for the delay in post, 5 days in Icu with my mom, I have not been on. I just posted it in the binghamton NY craigs list. Call or text if interested. It is like new, just like you just opened the box. I'm ready to install the drawtite hitch, and give the Subaru a towing test. For what I want it for it will be fine. Geo

I had my truck for 12 years and going to miss it. I will get another truck, but will use the subaru till then. All I will be towing is a 4x6 home depot special, very light weight. I will basically use it for anything I can't fit in the car. I buy a lot of generators, pressure washers, mowers and small engine type stuff. The largest would be my craftsman tractor a few miles twice a year. I have the draw tight hitch, But have to get the draw bar, what bar are you using? 3 inch rise? I want everything here when the hitch gets here. I did order the correct modulite wiring kit, I will just sell the plug and play harness. It was only used 1 time that will off set the cost. The picture above reminds me when I towed a backhoe with my 6cly f150.

I bought a draw tight from craigs list. It was only 3 Months old. Came with hitch and hardware and a plug in harness. My question does anyone know if the 2000 Subaru legacy l sedan comes with the extra connector to plug the harness in to? The hitch came off a 01 legacy wagon and is the same part number for my 00, but I did not see the plug in harness listed for 00 on etrailers.com but the 01 wagon did. I know the seller bought everything from etrailer.com. Is there a extra connector for the harness on a 00 legacy sedan? If there is location? I did no receive the hitch and harness yet, I want to get the correct wiring ordered if the 00 does not come with the connector. Thanks, Geo

I sold my truck yesterday, and now driving the legacy l everyday. I have a very light weight 5x7 home depot style trailer I bought from a neighbor. My question is, what is the best fitting hitch? Any to stay away from? Anyone tow with a 00 legacy sedan? Basically I would use it to pick up small items...with the largest being a craftsman lawn tractor to my mothers a few miles away at the end of the season. Just looking for the pros and cons. My car is a 00 legacy l with MT. I have not got the hitch yet, want to hear from all of you first. Geo

Look very close to the top first few inches of the coil. You may find the spring broke. I had the same problem. Front was almost 2 inches lower on the driver side. Turned out on close inspection the top of the spring was broke, it was very hard to see, I missed it the first few time I looked at it. Jacking it up made it easy to see.

i just did my gaskets a few months ago..... I thing it was alot quieter before the change, but i bought it with bad gaskets and did not drive it before i changed them. There was a tick before, but i done remember it this loud

No change after oil change. I also added MMO the last 100 miles before oil change, also no change. I guess I will just live with till it get up to tempature .

After pulling the motor and all the work that went in to it, it's a little embarrassing to start it up and hear ticking. If it slap, I'm just going to ignore it. I just want to male sure I'm not over looking something that can be fixed. The first day of posting the Video, I posted 2 of the same video. Posted the first video twice. I have posted the correct 2nd video that was taken after a short drive.

It a manual transmission.

Well I made 2 short videos the first one is a cold start up (it's in the 70's this morning) and the second is after a 5 minute drive. if I would of driven a little farther in the second video it would be quiet. But you will see after a short drive it is a lot quieter. Piston slap? is what it piston slap sounds like? All timing components have been changed so i know its not the tensioner piston slap?? Thoughts? this is after a short 5 minute ride. It would quiet even more if i drove a little longer. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8DqeCiyQFA&sns=em I just replaced the last video, I posted the first video twice...

Put some MMO in tonight, will see what happens. The tick stays longer on cool mornings. Today after work, I started it and it was quiet at idle, could just faintly hear it..turned on the AC and it was ticking pretty loudly. Any load on the motor and it's noticeable till warm. Once warm it's 98% gone. When the motor was apart, it was spotless. Even the pistons were clean, zero carbon on the valves..just spotless

That makes a lot of sense. Going to add it tomorrow, I will vac a little of the old out first. I dont see what it will free up, but got to give it a shot. Anyone have a luck with any certain type of oil? To help quiet it? Brand? Weight?

Yes, I checked the backing plate,They were actually tight. It's hard to tell where it's coming from, sounds more like the passenger side. Is there a way to tell for sure if it's piston slap? This is my first subaru... So a lot of this is new to me. I just want to figure out what it is. Piston slap I will just deal with, but if it's something else I want to fix it. Is this something a "trained ear" could tell? I would stop at the dealer and have someone listen to it, but it is gone when warm. How does one confirm the noise is actually piston slap and not another issue? Is the 99 legacy sohc 2.5 one of the years with the slap issue? I will give MMO a shot Friday when I change the oil. I have a bottle here, I guess it can't hurt. Thanks, Geo

I don't buy anything anymore with out them.

There is zero sludge in the motor. 500 miles ago I had the heads surfaced, head gaskets oil pump,water pump, resealed everything, along with clutch, pp,bearings, knock sensor,slave cylinder, and I can go on. Nipper...I have use mobile1 and nothing but in everything I own. When I put the motor back together I used motorcraft semi synthetic because I was going to change it in a few hundred miles in case of anything floating around from the rebuild. I guess I shouldn't of used the words "cheap oil". Motorcraft Synthetic blend may not be top shelf, but still good oil. Piston slap is possible.. Once warm,, no tick Grossgary, All timing componets are new oem Subaru parts. I had this same noise before pulling the motor. Before I pulled the motor I thought it was rocker but still there after all were adjusted.

5w30. I did use a cheaper brand oil because I was going to Change it at 5-600 miles due to all the work that I did.

Ok, I know subaru's are not the quietest motors, and ticking is a pretty normal. My 00 legacy at start up is quiet till throttle is given, give it a little gas I have a loud tick that gets faster the more gas you give it. Once the car warms up or after a mile of driving it gets quiet, I dont even here it, but loud till warm. I'm trying to figure out what the heck it is. I just did the head gaskets 500 miles ago and made sure the valves were adjusted perfect. All the rollers and tensioner and timing belt were also changed. This was like this before I did the head gasket. What is the common cause if the Subaru tick/knock issue? The car runs like a new car, but the first few minutes are a little embarrassing till it quiets up. Any suggestions

Like I mentioned a few post ago, my slave took minutes with out ever touching the brake pedal. 5 minutes to change out the fluid and bleed. And you can use the mittvac for many other jobs. Motorcycle,cars,trucks,ATVs....speed bleeders are great, but most people only need them a few times. I highly recommend the mityvac. http://www.google.com/search?q=mityvac+mv8000&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&client=safari#q=mityvac+mv8000&hl=en&client=safari&tbo=u&prmd=ivns&source=univ&tbm=shop&sa=X&ei=b0c8Tq-4McXX0QGW2pDEBQ&ved=0CEUQrQQ&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=eb827c0db78615cf&biw=1024&bih=660

Not all bad sensors have cracks in them. If it is tossing a code, good chance it is bad. Go to the link below, it is a link to advance promo codes. There is a few for $20 of a $50 purchase. Or $40 off 100. You get the point.. Order the part on line, and pick up in store. Your $80 sensor now becomes $50. I buy all my parts this way. Never pay full price. If you buy say stuff for an oil change with the sensor, you will get $40 off $100 Just order on line, put in the code during check out, and click you want to pick up in store. They have it ready with in the hr... My sensor ended up being like $50 and has worked perfect. No more CEL http://procouponcode.com/advance-auto-parts-coupon-code Here is a link to some codes, you have to click on them to give you the code. Just puck the one that will save you the most money. Geo

Just replaced my slave cylinder in my 00 legacy using the mityvac. From opening the hood to compleatly changing and breeding the clutch system took 20 minutes. 5 minutes to bleed the system. I flushed 3 master cylinders full of fluid out to make sure all the old was out. I never even touched the pedal to bleed the system once. Never left under the hood. 5 minutes. I paid no attention to the bubbles in the line, that comes from the threads of the loose bleeder. Perfect the first time.. Been perfect for the last 400 miles. Perfect feel. I replaced the slave because it started sticking when it was hot out, or driven for a while. I think the mityvac is a great tool if used correctly.

Very common to go bad. I would just replace it. I just bought one from advance auto no more CEL. I believe the code was po325. Borrowed from the net. The knock sensor responds to spark knock caused by Pre-detonation of the Air/Fuel mixture. As the flame front moves out from the spark plug ignition point, pressure waves in the chamber crash into the piston or cylinder walls resulting in a sound known as a knock or ping. This is caused by using a fuel with a low octane rating, overheating, or over advanced timing. Sometimes it can be caused by hot carbon deposits on the piston or cylinder head that raise compression. A knock sensor is comprised of Piezoelectric materials; Crystals that when impacted, generate a voltage (same idea as a BBQ ignitor). This voltage is monitored by the computer, and when an irregularity is detected, the computer corrects timing in VVT (variable valve timing) engines, or triggers a DTC Diagnostic Trouble Code) in older vehicles.

I forgot not everyone lives 2 minutes from a parts store. I'm just a few minutes away. What ever set you get, they still are no fun. I did the same thing with the socket and vice grips and Allen wrench. Worked perfect till got to the rear. No Allen head in the top of the rear strut. Lucky I had a offset wrench. Mine were Monroe not Kyb

Great! Glad to see it was just the battery. That's an easy fix.

I also Agree also on the lacquer thinner. What did you use to clean the surface? The picture shows a lot of scratches, sandpaper marks? Looks nice and clean. I spent what seems like hrs cleaning mine. I used a green scotch bright soaked I wd-40 and plastic razor blades then lacquer thinner before assembly. Clean is the key!