83pickle

It sits just above the cold mark. like an 1/8th tank on the gas guage. then if I'm stoped it slowly crawls to about 1/3rd. That makes sense. If I am on the freeway at all, I'm doing 70. So sounds like the thermostat is the suspect. I'll pop that out and take a look. I'm sure I will just replace it anyways, they are not that expensive.

I have seem that trick to flush the coolant. I am in an apartment unfortunately, so I will have to head out to my dad's shop to attempt that. So If I don't have a thermostat, wouldn't I have hot air by default? Unless my understanding of the thermostat is to allow cooler water into the block at a certain water temp is wrong. First easiest step is to clean out the blower. Still no better heat, take a look at the thermostat. What are signs of a bad thermostat?

Yeah I'm sure it could use a cleaning out. I have to park under one of those dumb trees with the little tiny leaves. My car gets covered daily when they fall. The blower motor, would I have to take off the whole dash to get to it? I see where it sits on the passenger side.

The cap is good, tested at Jiffy Lube when I had a service there. Have no clue on the thermostat. I assume it is working fine if the engine temp is staying cool.

The blower works okay, not much air gets pushed on high setting, but I'm sure a better alternator or new motor will work. The real problem is my heat is barley warm at normal speeds, but if I am slow going or at a light, the heat seems a bit warmer. It corresponds with the engine temp. Do I have super awesome cooling to where my engine doesn't get hot enough to provide good heat? My temp needle hardly moves too much past cold unless I am in traffic or at a light.

White makes things look larger. +1 for white.

lol, nice. It does work.

+1 for the RTV on the cork gasket. Really glad the PO did that to my GL when I was adjusting the lifters.

Is the SPFI swap better then the Weber?

Yeah I just called today. Can't wait to for them to get here. Is it a peel and stick deal, pretty durable, won't come off in a carwash?

Great info, thanks. I figured on the flat center part, I just didn't know if just because it's a 6 lug wheel, it has the proper bolt pattern. I know i didn't think about the offset so that's some good info.

I am curious to know if ANY 6 lug steel wheel can be drilled to match the old 4 lug pattern? I see tons of posts talk about it, but don't make it clear if its any 6 lug wheel. Mainly looking at a set of Toyota 15" 6 lug wheels and figure drilling the wheel is easier than drilling the hubs. Also, my plan is to mount some 155/60R15 snow tires. The overall diameter is an inch smaller than my 185/70R13s. Question for that is will my EA81 have any issue turning that combination? I assume the 15" rim is heavier than the 13".

Did you have issues ordering those Subaru Badges from their site? I think my VIN is too old (83 GL) for that order form. I put in a call and left a message, I hope I can get them.

Possible you will have interior parts?? I have the light tan interior and a huge tear windshield to vents on the top of my dash. I have a cover, but want to restore the interior of my 83 GL.

My name is James, I am a fresh Subaru owner since August. I picked up a pickle green 83 GL 4psd D/R for $500. The PO sadly passed away from cancer and was a tenant of a buddy of mine so I got a deal. It was great for first few weeks and then the transmission started to shift rough and eventually not at all. I assumed the clutch was gone. Took it to a buddy of mine to do diagnose (before I knew to take it to GD). He said new clutch and recommended some shops since he doesn't really do transmissions. I posted my problem on the forum and from there learned about the clutch cable being the culprit and meet up with GD and saved me a $400 bullet. Since then, Pickles (my 4 year old coined the nickname) has been running great. But I have plans for Pickles. EJ22 swap with the 5spd D/R. 4" SRJ lift with biggest tires I can fit 6lug drilled hubs with some simple white spoke 15" rims Custom exhaust since I am expempt from emissions testing Fresh paint job of same color and various body restorations Custom front and rear tube bumpers That's to start. By the time I am itching for something more, I will have better facilities to work on things myself, and will move on. EJ Frankenmotor Custom subframe (McBrat inspired) Bill Hincher's Toyota adapter Toyota running gear - Independent suspension front and rear Bigger bumpers with winches So that's my master plan. The first phase is easily feasable. Phase two will require making some local fabrication friends for subframe and welding Toyota running gear.

Welcome! I have a friend that used to have his repair shop mobile. Very handy when I had my toyota. It's a niche that hasn't been fully exploited. If you are ever in need of a web presence, hit me up. Best wishes with your venture.

I don't know how to determine what the actual problem parts are causing my issues are. Tried searching on this but didn't come away with anything. First issue is when I hit speed bumps (the sharp parking lot kind) anything over 2mph, the front passenger wheel seems feels like it drops while the driver wheel performs as expected. But at a slow crawl, works fine. Other issue is when straightening out from a tight (full lock) turn, whether slow or semi-fast, there is a ping/klunk sound like a rock hitting a tin lid or something. Are these suspension related issues and should replace the strut and or shock (not educated on what sort of suspension ea81s have) or something to do with the axle?

Ha! That's good. My 4 year old daughter coined the name pickles for the subie. She loves pickles.

Here is the pedal at the top were the cable attaches. I should find myself a new pedal, correct? That seems like lots of wear, almost like a drill tried to move the hole closer. And yes, Spongebob fruit snacks are tasty.

Yeah, I am first in line at the dealership. I have been so busy or I would have got one sooner and attempt the put it in. Now that I have taken it all out, it seems straight forward to get a new on in.

well anxiety kept me up so I worked as long as my cell phone camera light would shine. A bit of "how it happened". When I pushed the pedal it "clunked" and went to the floor and stayed there. Nothing brought it back up. I took an image from Subinewby's post (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=1030659&postcount=10) to describe what I think my issue is. That disc thingy (marked by my "look here" icon) was all cockeyed and would move while the pedal got depressed. I gained understanding of how it all holds together as I was disassembling the pedal and all to work at it on the floor, but what I don't know is what actually broke. Does my description indicate anything other than the cable being of poor quality?

Cable broke at the pedal. I can't see up there in the dark, so I don't know for sure if it's the crappy cable I got or something in the pedal itself. I know what it's like to drive without an operable clutch now... AWESOME!

joy...

When I accelerate after a tight turn, I hear something like a tin lid being hit with something in the passenger side. Also sometimes during a rough road. What is the easiest way to replace and cost? Should I change the whole axle assembly?

I got the engine idling back to normal buy adjusting it more. It sits around 1100 which is okay with me for the time being. Like I mentioned earlier, I will be EJ swapping before too long, so I can be patient. Thanks for the tips.