BlackBoot

I found a couple of racing line lockers that are low cost $40 each. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-760002/ With one for each rear wheel, wiring fittings and switches, it will come in under $100 installed.

Going back to my original post, Re: offset rear crossmember lift blocks, To move the wheel center to the rear, and move the tire away from the rear door, to not have to cut as much, or not at all? How much can the axles take? This is without extending the driveline, just an inch or two back, if the blocks are going in anyway then why not? Also the mount for the diff to the cross member modifyed to match

Another approach I have thought of. The loyale frame is desireable for the weight and the dual range, and legacy for the power. Loyales are harder to find in BC, and importing anything from out of country or ever out of province is a PITA. Legacy is readily available. What if the legacy was stripped chopped enough to bring the weight down? Then resemble the ea body buggy. And swapping a dual range into a legacy seems easier than swapping an EJ into a loyale, and lug conversion, misc. retrofitting and wiring.

Master saftey switch and indicator lights, absolutely. I wonder if there valves are available with pressure settings or of some other valve or combo that could do this. This is somewhat just like a set of selectable hill holders for each brake line. Where to install the valves? Up front, or at each wheel? Would it be possible to swap them in place of the hill holder valve? If I can source the parts cheap enough, I'd like to try it out, just the rear at first, then maybe the front later if sucsessful or required.

I just need something for when I'm on a badly washed out trail, with oppset corners hanging in air spinning, instead of coasting backwards down and trying another run at it. Or getting high centered on compacted snow, cause I got no lift, yet.. Just need to transfer power to the other wheel for a moment, just to get rolling. I had suggested having a timed switch to engage the individual wheel lock momentarily to reduce the safety issue that dragging could cause and forgetting it on and damage related to that. It won't be that critical if the locked wheel drags a bit, if it gets me out in tight spots. I never intended this idea to be used in any other situation, like on road or at any speed, not meant as a replacement for LSD or anything else but an alternative for a specific use. Cheap simple push button manually selective brake lock.

Very much like what I would like to build, i like the Idea of the buggy chop, there are some pics of a loyale wagon converted into a truck box in the rear out there. I'm thinking somthing in the middle. I like the angle brace taking the load from the cut away C pillar, to the B pillar, I thought of that too? I want to cut out the roof too and need support to keep it from folding up like a suitcase if all the doors are opened at once! Lol I'd keep the bit of roof between the B pillars side to side and the top of the door openings from the A to the B pillars, and then have the braces come down from the top of the b pillar to where the c pillar was, weld the rear doors shut and shave the handles. Shorten the rear and just move the bumper and tail lights back, no tailgate, and hack some sort of poly bed liner to fit, add other roll support where needed. I think this would suit my purposes and budget better than a subframe to get the support I'm looking for.

I get the advantages of the cable system, but seems complex, time intensive and costly for my low cost off road beater. The finesse difference here being the control and force is applied at the hand lever in one device in the cable, or at the foot pedal and separate switch requires more hand foot coordination in my solenoid valve idea. For occasional tight spots, it would be nice to just push a button related to the spinning wheel and pump the brake to the desired pressure, then disengage with another push, or optionally timed for convinience and or safety. Also the stock mechanical ebrake safety requirement is not comprimised

Would the pressure not be set at the point the lock was engaged? Applying just enough pressure at the pedal to stop the wheel, and then engage the lock? I think that the valves only hold the pressure back at the brake and keep it from returning to the master cylinder, so if it is engaged while no pressure is applied it Would not lock, or under light pressure it would drag at the wheel?

I'm aware of the brake diff lock, by cable, but never seen solenoid valve

Has anyone used brake line lock, roll holder ect. Valves used to hold drag cars brakes electronicaly, to control traction? Like the cable system but much easier. Here is where I developed the idea from http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1119812#post1119812 And a link to the devices http://www.jegs.com/c/Line-Lock-Roll-Control-Kits-Components/10159/10002/-1?sendroicid=bbef8492-2d00-41d6-b158-38db0de2603c&sendroiad=1769719539&sendroikwd=Line+Lock&gclid=CKCavaOp-bACFQxshwodNEi_jg Have one valve for each wheel, wired to a central console. Leaves the ebrake system stock so that is safe, and the valves are used in racing, so i'm sure they will work fine, tough enough? Would this work? Cost vs. reliability? Vs. other options like LSD? Stop that spinning wheel at the touch of a button and a pump of the brake pedal.

Thanks, I'll take this idea over to the off road section.

I agree for the reason of safety. . But my point is, If by leaving the stock ebrake system intact, that the hydraulic idea is still good, but for another application, like traction control when crawling in difficult places. Like the manual locker valve, then I thought of the solenoid ones, and having each line controled independently. I think its worth trying, if someone has not already?

Or is there a thead about brake diff lock on here? And if it works would it be better or cheaper than LSD

How about line lock / stage control / roll control, brake line solenoid valves used in racing, I'm sure they are tough enough for off road use. Use one on each of the 4 brake lines, could be mounted anywhere along the lines, or easy bolt on adapt into existing fittings. Wire it all to a control console, easy traction control. No messing with cables and levers, leave the stock ebrake as is. http://www.jegs.com/c/Line-Lock-Roll-Control-Kits-Components/10159/10002/-1?sendroicid=bbef8492-2d00-41d6-b158-38db0de2603c&sendroiad=1769719539&sendroikwd=Line+Lock&gclid=CKCavaOp-bACFQxshwodNEi_jg

I think an ea82 coupe would be the lightest and also have no issues with cutting into the doors in the rear, If the body can be trimmed to fit bigger tires easily, then no need or expense for a lift. Better exit angle than a wagon, and maybe sedan? And how far could the front wheel center be moved forward, for better entry angle and not trimming/bashing into the firewall as far. But I don't see many coupes' around.

What would the best combination of parts and mods easily available to make the optimal combination of soob parts or common bolt ons? Lightest vehichle or frame, Franken motor, Easiest body to cut, instead of lift kit parts? Also thought about rear lift blocks that offset the tube 1 " to the rear to allow for less trimming, same result as extending the radius rods in the front? Best clutch? Bolt pattern or redrill or 5 lug conersion? Trying to keep very expensive and rare parts out of he build, What do you think?

Since this engine overheated more than a few times, before it finally went, Should I be replacing anything else? Done the thermostat a couple of times, What about the waterpump?

Thanks for the advice, I'll order the proper seals and gaskets and resurface them myself

Hi, I recently blew a headgasket, 1992 loyale. What option is better, or cheaper? The cost of parts and resurfacing the heads, resurfacing $72 each, gasket kit $40. Total $184 Or Swap engine, unkown condition from yard $100 or from craigslist, said to be running ok $200 Also considering ej swap, but what is the end cost? Have DR and diff to swap, and set of studs for 6 bolt conversion. Any advice for where to start?

I'd like one of your 2" kits, do you accept paypal?

Welcome, I heard about you last summer when i bought a dual range of a guy in lumby, forgot his name. I didn't have time to visit your shop, had to drive back to Abbotsford same day. Got any passenger side fenders for a loyale in decent condition?

I was wondering about the wd40, years ago in the army an fng lubed his light machine gun with it, worked great until it reached its flashpoint and immediately lit up, went dry and seized up. What's a good source for bits? And is it necessary to get a costly tungsten bit?

I thought drilling alloy was a shady idea, that's why I asked for advice. So 6 bolt conversion for the hubs it is! But what about wheel studs, type and size? I have a full set of nuts and center caps from the Toyota tundra, I'd like to use them.

I'd love to come down and go wheelin' with you guys, lift or not. My only concern is that my loyale is my daily driver so I can't bash it up too bad, and I have to pass emissions testing once every 2 years, so I have to keep that in mind. I picked up some Toyota 16" alloy rims and tire combo that works out to 29", any advice on how much trimming and firewall bashing required to fit them if possible without a lift would be appreciated? I also have a dual range tranny and diff to put in, I'll probally need some help.