rdweninger

Sure thing on the 'do one side at a time'. However, in this order... Loosen lugs and axle nuts on both sides. Jack up car and set on sturdy jack stands... both sides. Now proceed with brake job with entire rear of car jacked up. This way, you can reveal both sides at once.

you stated the car recently had an oil/filter change. So how many quarts did you put in? And how did you know what filter to use?

Yes, you can do it yourself. I also remove the entire hub so I can work on the bench. I build a wooden block structure (use screws) so the hub sits flat on the bench. Also a good time to replace ball joints. Maybe tierod ends if they are worn. If you replace the tierod ends, you will need an alignment. Use a brass rod to knock out the old bearings... ie drift punch That way, you won't damage the inside of hub. I did my front shocks at the same time. Also rebuilt my calipers... and more brake component maintenance. I use the sticky red premium grease. 2 bearings per wheel. Should be a 6207-2RS. The 2RS calls out a double-sealed bearing which will be pre-greased and sealed for life. Or get an open bearing and pack it yourself. If you have a bearing supplier, like Bearings Inc., they might be cheaper. Don't forget the inner/outer seals. The whole job should take about 2-3 beers. Have fun. It's a good opportunity to 'learn' your front-end.

Does your coolant smell like exhaust? If so, it's a HG leak. I go 5# torque over on the Felpro PT gaskets. First setting is 35#. Second trip is 45#. Then 55#. I work my way from inside to outside. Did you use the 9592 PT gaskets?

In summary ... new shoes, new wheel cylinders and new spring set. Get some brake cleaner and make sure your drums (inside) are squeaky clean. Do both sides. Throw clothes in the dumpster when finished .... brakes are dirty! Forget the rebuild kit - you can get new cylinders for a just a few bucks more.

Keep your chin up. Treat this as an Opportunity. I can see you with your own shop and teaching at the community college. Eventually, you will have apprentices working for you while you set your own retirement. The door is open !

I missed the part about the clicking relay. I've never owned a Soob with auto belts. I've always wanted one .... such a pain to find em and click em. Let us know where the relay is. Sounds like it's in the pillar panel.

I had Philbin in Portland OR rebuild mine. Was like $120... new bushings, ign module, vaccum. I shipped via U.S. Mail on Tuesday. I got it back on Friday. You can google them for more info.

Another way to check for amp draw is the unhook the neg bat cable and touch it to the neg post of bat. If you see a spark, you have an amp draw. Best to do if it's dark out. Doors shut, ignition off, hood light bulb removed (if you have one). A faulty voltage regulator is commonly known to drain your battery. Have napa bench test it (it's in the alternator) ... unless you have pre-83 (I think) and then it's an external VR.

you are correct on the cylinder locations. The firing order is 1-3-2-4. Starting with #1 on the disty cap wire nearest the firewall (points toward MC). Then go counter-clockwise - plug that wire into cyl #3. Continue counter-clockwise - plug to #2 .... then #4. I think Gloyale may have been refering to the disty to coil wires. Check those, also.

I don't know about anyone else, but I already don't like your girlfriend. What? No compassion for broken Subarus? What do you think will happen if you break your leg and need some help? All joking aside, If you think it's the ECU, I'm sure someone here has one they would let go. Try posting a WTB in the Marketplace. I'm a carb guy ... computers fail.

Sapper, this sounds like a problem I had on my ea81 Hatchie. It would run like crap at low rpm's. However, if I got the rpm's over 4k, then it would run better. I watched my tach, and it seemed to jump all over the place. That was my clue to a faulty distributor. I had Philbin in Portland OR rebuild the entire disty. Cost about $120. Took 5 days total (by U.S. Mail) That resolved my problem. Try swapping distributors, if you have a buddy with a running ea81 close by.

This is killing me .... I need to know what that switch operates !!! Been unable to sleep at night for over a year.

What I meant was that my fan is always ran on High. When the cab is defrosted or warmed up ... I turn it OFF. Most people drive around for years with the fan setting to 1, 2 or 3..... without even realizing that their fan is on. The more you use the resisted settings of 1, 2 or 3 - the quicker your pack will burn up.

Depends on where the bolt is. It could be in inaccessible due to crossmember. I have a replacement oil pan if you need one. If you want a freshly resealed motor, I have that also.

There was some talk about a resistor pack from a Toyota PU that will work. Anyone have experience with aftermarket packs? Do they fit? How long do they work? I now only run my fan on high (no resistance) or OFF. I am assuming my resistor pack will last forever, now. Wish me luck.

What town are you near. Might be able to help you with a good shop.

What exactly are you doing? If it is a straight swap, just bolt it on. Use OEM gaskets. If you are using the Hitachi carb - good luck. It can be done. If you are going with a Weber, there is tons of info on this forum. You may want to use an EA82 intake. Guys and Gals ... I am not positve, but it is my belief that this is not the site to meet girls. It's ok to laugh! As long as your car is still running.

Jez, I did some searching, but really could not figure out what Toy PU year to order for. So these will fit Gen 1 Brats with no cutting? Anyone have a link to order these?

That sled weighs close to 450 lbs. I wonder if it was just for joke .... or if that setup is actually functional. Anyone in Montana know this guy?

I've had that problem in past winters with 20 degree weather. The first thing I tried was dumping some Heet into the fuel tank. To my surprise, it worked. The Heet somehow attaches itself to the water molecules and is then able to ignite. No problems this year .... we had our warmest winter ever (on record) here in Oregon. Our daily average temp was like 48 degrees.

Maybe check and clean the fusible links under the hood near the battery.

Going to the price shop? Where's the fun in that? You might ask exactly what hoses are being changed. I believe there are 7 of them. You might only be getting 2 changed. I don't want to tell you what to do ... but if it were me .... I would get some solid advice/instructions from HTKYSA & USMB .... get the son involved ... and have some good 'ole shop mechanics bonding. Pics of the '83 ?

So, G, the clutch in box will fit 1982 and earlier EA81 4WD 4-speed and FWD 5 speed? Is this correct? Just so happens, I picked up an '82 FWD 5-speed last weekend .... it does need a clutch. OP, Joe, are you selling the clutch?

Tru 'dat Naru. OP... your valves open and close via rockers and pushrods that operate from the cam lobes. It's a beautiful thing.