rdweninger

and a Phillips screwdriver for the bracket that supports the cables. You might pull the starter for ease of positive cable replacement. So I would have sockets, extensions and wrenches on hand.

You might want to double check the pitch.... looks like 1.5 ( as there are 10 threads in 15 mm).

Napa may have them. I bought mine from a shop here in town ... Mechtronics. He is just a one-man shop. You might check you local shops. If not, I found these guys for wholesale. But they have a $10 minimum order. The contacts are only .58 cents. www.aspwholesale.com/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=786 You want part #66-82786 You need two of them. Check locally, first.

They have oven baked sandwiches for $4 ... says the sign. Love the Oregon tags !

In the meantime, pull the solenoid cap (3 little bolts... like 8mm hex heads). Inside, you will see the copper starter contacts (2). The one on the battery side will probably be worn down from the arcing that has occurred... thus preventing the transfer of juice to the electric motor side. It is these contacts that you may wish to replace. The contacts are maybe .99 cents apiece. I get mine from a local mechanic repair shop. Although, I think I may try to find them wholesale. You will then have a spare starter... cool, huh?

If you hear the click - click at the starter solenoid, then your ignition switch is working. So it is either not enough juice from the battery (low batt or bad cable or connection) or worn starter contacts. I have replaced contacts in several starters... that fixed the problem every time.

You have to remove the spare tire support rod, remove battery cable support, and any other hose or pcv tube that is in the way. I can remove all the starter mounting bolts from top ... but I do some of my best work 'by feel'. If you can't get to the bolt head, then yes, take a look at it from underneath. Keep at it ... you'll get it.

First, make sure to disconnect the battery cables. When I remove starters from ea82's, I remember leaving the hot wire connected to the starter. Just remove the starter mounting bolts.... then remove the hot wire after the starter is up and out from the flywheel. Then you can 'get' to the hot wire when the starter is sitting on the inside fender. When you have the starter on the bench, you might as well check the contacts at the solenoid end. Those are fairly easy to replace.

yes, like he said. Felpro Permatorque for HG and Subaru OEM for all else. Especially for intake and valve covers. Depending on the condition of the current Hitachi carb and associated 1000 vacuum lines.... I would definitely install a Weber... at the very least. How's the clutch disc, pressure plate? Always install a new pilot and throwout bearing. They're cheap. Rebuild the oil pump. New contacts in starter. New hoses and belts (keep old for emergency spares). Plugs, wires, cap/rotor. New water pump and thermostat.

My Dad swore by Rislone. It kind of smells like ATF. A very experienced mechanic (45 years) told me about the ATF trick when I had my first TOD in 2000. And that fixed the problem. Now, I just add a half quart of ATF just before every oil change, run the motor for 15 minutes, drain oil and replace filter. Fill with Delo 15-40. I wish I would have 'invented' Seafoam. I'd be like Oprah ... "and You get a car.... and You get a car .... " Never used the Seafoam... but the hype is ridiculous.

What has worked for me in the past .... I put about half a quart of ATF in the oil (use the whole quart if you are 1 quart low on oil) ... I run the motor between 1000-2500 rpm for maybe 5-10 minutes... or until the TOD stops. The ATF seems to clean out the oil galleys, I guess. Then of course, drain the oil and replace the filter. I use Delo 15-40 since 1993 and I have only had the TOD once (ATF did the trick). I have never rebuilt the oil pump on this particular EA 82 Soob.

PM Sent.

For a good ride... call 1-800-newhuby. Sorry, couldn't resist. So, you must have a Ford F 150, 4wd, probably 1992 ?

Sometimes a small exhaust leak at the header sounds like a tick. When the pipes get hot... the tick will stop. That could be why your tick is intermitent ???

ya, pics to document the project will be priceless. I picked up my Brat on Apairy road a year ago.

Where in Oregon are you? Several old-school Soobie shops around. I'm sure they could put your old EA81 back together. They surely know where all the bits and pieces go. No mistaking a head bolt. For sure, go with an EA81. Make sure you get the boy involved with the build. He will appreciate the knowledge and experience he gets. They don't teach auto shop in HS anymore. And he will probably 'respect' the Brat a bit more (read won't wreck it).

If you decide to incorporate the use of a putty knife, make sure it is a plastic putty knife. And, you can sharpen it with a file (if need be). I like the idea of using the braided fishing line as a saw. That stuff is tuff. I use it on the wind chimes I make.

My technique... spray with liquid wrench. Let set a day. I use a 1/2" breaker bar (not a ratchet). Sometimes have to use a cheater bar. Always loosen the fill bolt first... so you know you can re-fill after draining. If that does not work, insert an extension into the 1/2 square hole and tap with hammer to 'loosen' the threads. By tap, I mean whack it good 5-10 times. More liquid wrench. Never give up!

I believe these 505's are the wheels that you need the OEM Peugeot lugnuts. Somebody correct me, if I am wrong.

if it is a manual trans and has the hill holder, you need to push the clutch in when bleeding right rear and left front. I just pin my clutch to the floor and do a 4 corners. I use a vacuum bleeder at the wheel.

Where are you located? I don't know Medway.

To check for vacuum leaks use a flammable spray. I always use carb cleaner in the spray can (without the 4" red nozzle tube attached). With the car running, just spray it around the vacuum lines and intake gaskets. When the idle rpm changes (usually goes up) then that is where your vacuum leak is. The flammable fluid gets sucked into your intake/combustion chamber and burns - like adding more fuel just before the plugs spark. Sorry to hear about your Dad. My Mom passed about a year ago. She would always say ... "You don't NEED another Subaru". She was right... I have seven of them.

I really like my 1/2" drive metric sockets for breaking loose ball joint, calipers, shocks etc ... I used 3/8" for 30 years.... but pretty much broke all them. 1/2" drive with a breaker bar is much easier on the knuckles.

Uhh, Ohh. Haven't heard from OP since Friday. He must have used the cable ties. Poor guy !

I don't like seeing pictures of wrecked old-gen Soobs. It almost brings tears to my eyes. Please stop... Ahhh.... Just kidding.... I still need to post pics of my '85 Hatchback - hit an elk doing 70 mph. Not a scratch on me... Car totaled.