rdweninger

or anyone else near OK. This has only 65,000 on it. It must have been garaged it's whole life ... as it should be. Probably not a 91 .... cause first year was 92. http://tulsa.craigslist.org/cto/5069234976.html

Check the boxes that the boots came in. Most of the time, they ship with grease packets. I use heavy duty zip ties to secure my boots. I have had no problems in several years of using zip ties. Also, I have never bought (or replaced) an axle roll pin. Just reuse them. Note that the axle only fits onto the diff stub one correct way. Think about where the spline is in relation to the center of pin hole. It is possible to slide the axle onto the diff stub incorrectly, thus misaligning the pin hole by a half spline. Does that make sense?

Thank you for the update. We appreciate your feedback.

any updates on where to register for WCSS 2015 ?

Hello everyone. U-Joint failed on my 85 EA82 wagon. Apparently, they are staked in from the factory. I have read all the posts about the difficulties or replacing them... so here goes. Has anyone recently hired a shop in Oregon/WA to replace the joints? Where did you get the U-joints? Has anyone bought the U-joints on RockAuto and do they work? Or, has anyone replaced the u-joints themselves? I have a parts car with the driveshaft still in it ... but with 220,000 miles, I doubt those u-joints will last much longer. Thanks for the help. I appreciate your input. RW

Buy it from the tow company. You will give them more money than a scrap yard ... right? You don't need a title for a parts car. And, before a metal recycler can accept a car, they have to see the title. So, the tow company will get a title thru abandonment. In Oregon, that costs $75. Or you can do that yourself, once you have the car in possession.

I am a bit confused. So Brett from Kansas City wants to rent a PNW soob, drive it from Seattle to San Diego as a moped chase vehicle. Then Brett will drive the car to Wichita and Dinky will buy it?

Fix the reserve starter with new contacts. The contact on the battery side wears down alot faster. Cleaning the contacts will help for a short time. But by the time you get everything apart, for $2 you could replace them. I always save the better solinoid side contact. Eventually, I will have pairs. Also, lightly file down the big copper ring and lube the spring. Then seal the maintenance cap with a bit of black permatex as a last step. I have never replaced or added a relay - just starter contacts.

This may be stating the obvious ... but You mentioned it ... did you check the trunk for a body? I mean, you DID buy the car off this forum. My money is on the drum brakes. Broken springs ... grinding, sometimes squealing, sometimes knocking. It is cheap to replace, and is the first thing you come to when you pull the hub. Well, other than the axle nut - which could be loose. I had that happen. First time Subie needs to procure a 36mm socket. Good luck, keep us posted.

I rebuilt my oil pump - replace the shaft seal, the mickey mouse gasket and the o-ring below the 4-lobe gear in rear of unit. When you said you resealed the ea82, did you replace the metal reinforced o-rings in the cam tower?

Could be a sticky ring or valve. Add a quart of Rislone or ATF to oil... run for 10-15 minutes. Change oil and filter. Drive it ... Check oil Do not scrap it .... but I get the feeling you might have already.

Must have OEM Intake Gaskets. Axles if you can find or reboot them.

I had the same problem. Had to hand-assist the sunroof closed. If you have an air compressor and nozzle, that helps clean the tracks. I used Liquid Wrench for lube. It works great now.

Try Les Schwab ... see what they say. Make sure you ask them to check for component failure before they align. Ask to observe when the car is on the lift.

uh oh... I have an MPFI EA82. Didn't realize it had 25 spline. But wait, it is FWD and AT... could it be 23 spline? Now I'm curious.

I use off the shelf Autopart store sticky red wheel bearing grease. I cleaned and repacked my wheel bearings on a trailer I bought in 1993 ... It still rolls and I have never repacked them. I think I responded earlier on the bearings ... 6207 ... Check online parts house or ebay.

Start by cleaning out the door plunger switch. Get good contact on the metal bits. Then pull the dome light and clean up those contacts - Yes, they will be corroded, patina'd, oxidized ... what ever you want to call it. There is a screw which actually attaches the ground wire to a metal post in the roof. Check and clean other body grounds in the engine compartment.

Your clock looks a little different from the one I fixed from a 1985 GL wagon - it had the trip computer/clock. I think your clock has a tiny bulb seen in the second pic, middle -right.

You want the stock EA81 23-spline axle if you have the standard D/R 5spd from the EA82 (also is 23-spline). The turbo models had 25-spline. If your current axle has the OEM green colored doj/cvj caps, you would be better off cleaning them and rebooting with fresh CV grease. Click Click ain't so bad... can be fixed.

I recall the bulbs being somewhat hard to find. I bought 10 of them. They came in a tiny package.... and now I can't find that package. I'll take a look tonight and maybe they will magically appear.

There are also 2 bulbs that should be replaced while you are in there.

Question for the MuffinMan .... does your tach jump all over the place when you try to reach WOT? if so, I'd put my $ on the disty. You got any spare parts up there? Know anyone with a similar disty you can swap? Hopefully, you have replaced the rear fuel filter by now... it's been how many days? If you plan on owning a 1983 Soob, then you should plan on doing at least $300 in maintenance parts. And yes, you will do the work yourself. Then, your Soob will run another 30 years. Get a $20 multimeter and learn how to use it. You can check plug wires, coils, resistance, continutity, 12volt and grounds. This forum is a goldmine of information .... if you choose to learn.

Great story. I love the part about the car having round metal babies. However, I still don't understand why no company can manufacture (or rebuild) a reliable axle these days. I'm sure nobody would mind paying $100 for a new axle that would last as long as the original OEM. My last caliper rebuild had trouble spinning the piston back in. It would spin and spin, but did not retract any. Finally, after 30 minutes, it did retract back into the cylinder. You did clockwise screw the piston back in ...right? They don't push (or press) straight in.

You want the 225mm (8 7/8"), 24 spline, 1" shaft. Call it 225mm x 24T x 1". The 225 x 21T x 7/8" is for an 83+ EA81 4spd

4.5 quarts is the correct amount. After draining my oil, I then recycle the oil into gallon milk jugs. That way, I know how much oil drained out. It is always about 4 quarts. If your oil level is over the high mark, maybe you have water/coolant in your oil from blown headgasket. I have seen this happen. As far as the car just dying ... sounds like a broken timing belt - driver's side.