natext6

I meant the axle nut =P just didn't know what it was called. I probably just need to he more forceful. Right now its covered in wd40, so we'll see if that helps.

I've got essentially everything except springs and struts separated from the car, and in one piece . It's a '99 legacy. I've take the ring off of the end of the axle (set inside the knuckle on the wheel side of everything) but it wont give me the axle....I'm trying to separate the parts to do rust treatment. Any suggestions to help me get these apart? Am I just missing a step?

I did a bit of research, and it seems like subaru changed to all pull type transmissions after 98. Would an 00-04 legacy 2.5 trans work?

Could I run a 1998-2001(ish) WRX transmission? would that work?

I'd take the credit, but I just c/p'd it off of Wikipedia

"The viscous type is generally simpler because it relies on hydrodynamic friction from fluids with high viscosity. Silicone-based oils are often used. Here, a cylindrical chamber of fluid filled with a stack of perforated discs rotates with the normal motion of the output shafts. The inside surface of the chamber is coupled to one of the driveshafts, and the outside coupled to the differential carrier. Half of the discs are connected to the inner, the other half to the outer, alternating inner/outer in the stack. Differential motion forces the interleaved discs to move through the fluid against each other. In some viscous couplings when speed is maintained the fluid will accumulate heat due to friction. This heat will cause the fluid to expand, and expand the coupler causing the discs to be pulled together resulting in a non-viscous plate to plate friction and a dramatic drop in speed difference. This is known as the hump phenomenon and it allows the side of the coupler to gently lock. In contrast to the mechanical type, the limiting action is much softer and more proportional to the slip, and so is easier to cope with for the average driver. New Process Gear used a viscous coupling of the Ferguson style in several of their transfer cases including those used in the AMC Eagle. Viscous LSDs are less efficient than mechanical types, that is, they "lose" some power. In particular, any sustained load which overheats the silicone results in sudden permanent loss of the differential effect.[7] They do have the virtue of failing gracefully, reverting to semi-open differential behavior. Typically a visco-differential that has covered 60,000 miles (97,000 km) or more will be functioning largely as an open differential;[citation needed] this is a known weakness of the original Mazda MX-5 (a.k.a. Miata) sports car. The silicone oil is factory sealed in a separate chamber from the gear oil surrounding the rest of the differential. This is not serviceable and when the differential's behavior deteriorates, the VLSD center is replaced."

Not all 3.9's are LSDs The number has to do with the gear ratio. Not all differentials are LSDs either. an easy way to check is to get the rear wheels off the ground, if you spin one wheel, and the other moves in the same direction, it's an LSD (IIRC) if it moves in the opposite direction, it's an open differential. The gear ratio has to match up with the transmission gear ratio. I know that the LSDs available on xt6s had the 3.9 ratio. but that isn't to say that all xt6 diffs are LSD. Hope that helps a bit. V stands for viscous.

The template you made, was that to change the vehicle from auto to manual?

Unfortunately I don't think I could Photoshop two pedal boxes in, and have it look good! Any other cars I could check?

And so! Which cars can I steal that out of? Please forgive the stream of questions, I'm still getting a knowledge base going

Thanks for the info!

Great info! Will I have to change my pedal box?

I just picked up some 04 sti springs, but they have a small amount of surface rust. What do you guys use to remedy this? Could I take them to have them powder coated?

How sturdy are the EJ22T transmissions? Could an EJ22T transmission handle the 49 extra HP of the EZ30? ('03)

I'm replacing the transmission as well....and the engine(ez30:headbang:) Don't suppose you could point me in the right direction in terms of which transmissions will work and which wont?

I found a really good deal on an 04 wrx clutch. Unfortunately, the car it is intended for (xt6) has a cable actuated clutch (if I'm saying that correctly) . So the question. can such a conversion be done(cable-->hydraulic)? And is it worth it? What would I need to go through with this?

Poor xt

I'm actually upgrading an xt6:-p If it helps, I know that '99 legacy rear struts will work with "04 sti springs.

Does anyone know off-hand if there's a strut that will accept '04 sti springs, and also hook up to a '99 legacy suspension set-up?

I'm not entirely sure yet. I know I want a 5spd AWD EJ of some description, I don't know which one's will be able to handle the ez30 tho. Can certain clutches only work with certain transmissions? I really don't know this kind of stuff so any info would be much appreciated!

I'm planning on dropping an ez30 into an xt6. Im planning on putting a manual transmission behind it. What kind of clutch upgrades do I need to make? Do I need to replace the whole thing? Or are there only certain components that need to be swapped? any brand recommendations?

Don't know if this helps, but! I'm swapping an xt digidash into my xt6, I had to pick up the fuel tank sender from the xt , and the engine temp sensor, you probably don't have to worry about this, but I also had to get a tach signal converter as the digidash is designed to receive signals from a 4 cylinder engine, not a 6 cyl. Pulling the unit apart wasn't hard actually, I think there were ~15 small screws throughout. Other than that, everything fits together and sits properly without any direct fixation. TAKE PICTURES OF EVERY STEP. You can easily forget to things, as there are LOTS of small parts.

I'm pretty sure I have a 3.9 LSD in my xt6, I'd have to double check tho.

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