eggroller

I will play! My '88 GL Wagon's name is Cecil (as in Bug Bunny vs Cecil the Turtle)

New front wheel bearings....installed! I ordered the bearings from Drivewire with the seals on them. I promptly took the seals off and repacked them with Mobil 1 Sythetic grease while in front of the TV. I removed the old stuff and it seemed like a light grease instead of wheel bearing grease. I used jeweler's flat head screwdriver to lever the seal off. Very carefully... Then the installation was a couple of days later. (Last Saturday 3/23/2006) I used my trusty gear press to get the axles off quickly. Disconnected the lower balljoint (like I was going to replace the axles) and got enough space to get the axles out of the way. Disconnected the steering tie rod (used the gear puller to pop them off easily). Used a drift to tap the old ones out. Inboard bearings 1st. Cleaned off one of the old bearings and used it to tap the new ones in until the old ones started to seat. Whoops, too far! Got the old one off and use the drift to seat it all the way. Watchout, don't mar the surface of the seal. Don't forget the spacer in between the bearings. I also put some grease in the void between the bearings...just in case. Use the old bearing to tap the outboard. Then use the drift to get the bearing completely seated. Install the new wheel bearing seals and grease them, too. Lightly greased the axle and got it all buttoned up. 1st side too me longer to get the axle home. The total for one side was 2 hours. The 2nd side took me an hour. Done.

Correct, the Snatch Block will effectively double the pulling power of the winch. There is a PDF on the URL I cited with Winching Techniques (http://www.warn.com/corporate/images/90/64660-A2_RS.pdf). Very informative! EDIT: Added link to PDF.

I just purchased the KYB GR2 from this eBay store with free shipping. http://stores.ebay.com/Performance-Peddler The prices at that time are below: Front Left: 234047 $62.03/ea. Front Right: 234046 $62.03/ea. Rears: 341065 $59.08/ea. (Order 2!) Front Mount: SM5364 $57.74/ea (Order 2!) So far those are some of the lowest prices I have seen. They shipped quick for the struts but they didn't let me know that the strut mounts are backordered and just shipped a day ago. Quick shipping for us on the west coast (2-3 days).

Is there anything wrong with getting a winch designed for an ATV instead? They are smaller but with big capacity. Like Warn's 4.0i Utility Winch 4000 lbs capacity single line at 12V DC. http://www.warn.com/atv/winches/40ci_winch.shtml The weight of the unit is 21 lbs. Quite light IMHO. It should be able to pull the lightweight Scoobie out of many situations. As always have a good battery to use a winch. It is not OEM but should do quite well, right?

Lapping days for me in the GTI. It is fun pestering E36 M3s, Corvettes and quite a few others.

This positive camber is killing me around the corners on my stock 88 GL Wagon. Since I plan to lift it, has anyone done camber plates on their lifted EA82? I am sure that the camber plate will be at the bottom of the spacers for the struts. Hmmm..... Best price I have found for camber plates/pillow ball mounts is $150 new. :clap:The are the Tein brand from http://www.andysautosport.com/product/suspension/pillow_ball_mounts

I just ordered up from DriveWire the sealed bearings. That company is insane fast. I ordered at 10:45a. I got a shipping notification at 12:35p. Same day! I am planning to use an impact socket and gear press to expedited the removal and installation of the parts. Of course if that fails then I will get the drift and get them in the old fashioned way.

Why do I remember that there was a thread about minor adaptation required (elogate the holes at the top of the strut tower) to fit Impreza strut bearings to the EA series? (i.e. Camber plates fitted) If that is the case then the Impreza stuff would fit the EA? I will search.... EDIT: It was the Camber plate thread by WJM There was no mention of fitting the struts/shocks from an Impreza/Legacy to an EA series.

The shocks you cited above are interchangeable from '85-93 GL/DL/Loyale 4WD Wagon. I just purchased them from this eBay store with free shipping. http://stores.ebay.com/Performance-Peddler The prices at this time are below: Front Left: 234047 $62.03/ea. Front Right: 234046 $62.03/ea. Rears: 341065 $59.08/ea. (Order 2!) Front Mount: SM5364 $57.74/ea (Order 2!) So far those are some of the lowest prices I have seen. Hopefully, there are no lower prices out there. I will see how these guys do for shipping and accuracy.

Thanks to Miles Fox. I have done many things on my EA82 SPFI. Because of him I the timing belt covers on the garage floor. It looks neato without them, too!

Congrats! He he he...wanna sell one of the cargo covers?

Oh, I timed it at 18* instead of the spec'ed 20*. Seems to run nicely. Thanks for the suggestion!

FIXED: Forgot the seal on the oil pump (the one around the pump. Not mickey mouse seal) Timing was WAY off. Pulled the distributor and timed it correctly. Stupid me looked over at where the pile of parts was and notices a round seal. Hmm...where does that go? DOH! So, back apart it goes. Yup, forgot that seal. Lifters might have not received enough pressure to pump up. As suggested, I checked the timing. Connected the green wires and looked for the timing marks. None to be found. Not good. Shut it down and pull the distributor cap and it was way off. Pulled the distributor and realigned it. Good to go there. No more noise from the valvetrain. Engine purrs quite nicely. More power now! Thank you everyone!!!

This list should be higher in the forum or a part of a sticky. I have lurked here for a while and have done nearly everything on the 1st list...yesterday. Would have helped to have read this 1st! So, here is a bump to bring it to the top.

I changed my '88 D/R tranny and rear end to Valvoline Full Sythetic Gear Oil 75W-90 It was a marginal increase in price from the non-sythetic stuff at the local GI Joes. Drive the car around a bit to warm it up and it flows out easier.

Can't be sure until one disassembles the engine, right? The engine ran good before my maintenance work. Can't spin a bearing by rotating the engine without oil pressure, right? Furthermore, I would have had idling issues/noise.

Yes, you are correct. I put the driver's side belt on. Left the tensioners loose. Rotated the engine completely around until the center of the 3 timing marks is on the pointer. Then installed the passenger belt. The driver's side pulley had the dot facing down. Sorry if the post was not clear. I was a bit tired as it was late in the night. I will definately do a double check on the timing as well as the firing order and all things associated with timing! Thank goodness I have the timing light! I didn't know about the green connectors the 1st time I timed the car. It might explain why the timing jumped around everywhere. (I just recently read the "How to Keep Your Subaru Alive" manual.) I am going to try the 20* timing before messing with the 18* timing. Thank you everyone for your help!

Hmmm, I didn't mess with the valves at all. The engine did not make this noise under load before the work performed above.

THANKS! I will try to retard the timing when I get home. Anything else I should check for?

Background: 1988 Subaru GL Wagon. EA82 w/5 spd D/R and SPFI. No A/C. 199,370 miles. (~1K of those miles are mine) Just finished some work on the car: OEM Subaru Timing Belts w/new tensioners and idler gear Oil pump with new mickey mouse seal Water pump w/new thermostat (180*) All new water hoses - everyone of them except that one behind the throttle body. Got the timing belts correct. Driver's side 1st. Pointing up. Then 360* turn and the mark was 180* from where it started. Pointing down. The Passenger side pointed up. Installed the passenger belt. Turn the engine over a few times. Verify one mark is up and one down. Now that the car is back together I idle it and verify no leaks. Idles smooth albeit a bit fast (always has been at around 1100 rpms when hot). Good oil pressure. Coolant level is good. Everything looks good and I take it for a test drive. That is where the valves sound like garbage when I try to rev it under load. Is is possible the timing is advanced? Even if the timing belt is spot on (not a tooth off)? I do need to verify the distributor is pointing at #1 when the engine is at TDC. However, it is time for bed and I need to get up for work in a bit. Suggestions? Got a road trip to Whistler this weekend and a road trip to Idaho next weekend. I want to take the Subaru! <edit>Clarified the timing belt installation procedure used. FIXED: Forgot the seal on the oil pump (the one around the pump. Not mickey mouse seal) Timing was WAY off. Pulled the distributor and timed it correctly. Stupid me looked over at where the pile of parts was and notices a round seal. Hmm...where does that go? DOH! So, back apart it goes. Yup, forgot that seal. Lifters might have not received enough pressure to pump up. As suggested, I checked the timing. Connected the green wires and looked for the timing marks. None to be found. Not good. Shut it down and pull the distributor cap and it was way off. Pulled the distributor and realigned it. Good to go there. No more noise from the valvetrain. Engine purrs quite nicely. More power now. Thanks to all who gave suggestions!!!!

Congrats!

Link to photo album

In the VW GTI 1.8T world. People are doing similar modifications. Larger MAF housing from a VR6 with the 1.8T sensor. Larger 380cc injectors instead of the 316cc. Together can fuel a larger turbo upgrade as long as the boost does not go out of spec. But to fix that they put a diode on the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor to limit the boost the ECU 'sees'. The engine then relies up on the closed loop fueling map (referencing the O2 sensor). For Subarus, I am not sure if it will work. I don't see why it won't work, though.

Does it work well for water spray, too?