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That pic is priceless! Thank you! Now I know what I must hunt for, or try to make. I tried to find them in parts break down, without success.

Thank you all, but I thought the top spoiler attaches to glass, otherwise drilling the frame would be easy. The lower spoiler has studs and little plastic nubs to pop into holes. I just need to take out tailgate interior to install the nuts after I drill.

I finally scored both OE top & mid spoiler wings. BUT I dont have any hardware except some of the bolts for mid wing which look like I must drill thru back hatch to attach. But the top spoiler attaches how? Is there special glass anchors bonded to rear glass? to be able to bolt to? I cant find anything in the search function and cant find anything in parts breakdowns.

X2

I spritz diesel fuel/used oil mix with a cheap dollar tree bottle sprayer, in spring, when I drive car up on ramps. One end the the other end. Yes messy & smelly, & wear goggles, but I hate rust & hoping for prolonging the cancer. Good luck! (I've read in spring is best applied because road dust collects in the film over summer & helps hold it for the winter) I just got a rust free 96 Impreza OB, 51k miles, I plan on treating the area where the rear bumper meets the metal at fender well. Seems they all rust out there. I think it is from the the two parts rubbing together with grit & when salt gets added, it starts rotting. I'm going to pull down bumper at that spot about 1" and apply epoxy to the underside flat spot on metal where the bumper meets. My hope is that once the layer of epoxy is cured & I reseat bumper, it will have a plastic to epoxy surface to rub together, without exposing the metal. Also I will remove the rubber/plastic wheel well edge protectors since I believe they hold corrosive moisture also.

I wish you were in the NE, cause I have a 99 impezza 2.2 with rusted body but good engine. At 175K no oil burning.

(1) If towing AT on tow dolly with driveshaft disconnected for 2000 miles, the drive shaft will lay in cradle and will it rub diff? That doesn't sound good if it does touch. Bungee cord it or? (2) If it dies not touch can I idle on & off dolly, and into garage? How does it attach into tranny? Can it slide out? I might need to pick up car and take to storage for a few weeks, then rent dolly again to finish 1500 mile trip. Avoiding bolting & un-bolting driveshaft to move car on & off dolly. Too bad there is not a thin bearing with one side raised outer race & other side would have a raised inner race, too slip in between drive shaft & diff with longer bolts.

So if I find a 95 or 95 impreza outback, it is non-interfering?

I tried to find my answer thru search function, but still confused. I'm searching for a 1995-99? impreza outback sport but I'm not sure about the engine. I want a 2.2, but was a 2.5 an option or did they all come with 2.2? and then switch to 2.5 in 1997ish? Anyone have correct knowledge of such?

Thank you again. Junk yard had a used one from a Forester & I had my alternator rebuilder guy test it. Tested fine.

Thank you, good info.!

I tried to find a Subie dealer reman alt for 1999 impreza L and the cheapest I found is like $200.00. Cant believe they increased that much since this post less than a year ago. The re-builder I use said the rectifiers are on back order, approx 10 days. I guess I'll go the junk yard route.

In my kids car, inside trunk on passenger side, close to wheel well, there is a black 3/8 ish ID hose. For what? Does it have anything to do with fuel venting? We smell fuel sometimes. Filler tube looks ok. 1999 impreza L

Update, still starting fine.

This am approx 27degrees and started fine. I did make my kid fill up tank last night.

I thought the tranny range selector locked out power to starter? Engine still cranks but wont fire.

2 codes came up, p0135 and p0705. the guy said something about bank 1 oxy sensor, and 2nd is tranny range sensor. Tranny seems to be working fine. Can the oxy sensor cause the nostart condition when cold?

Dothe scanners that Autozone or Advance auto uses, work good enough to pull the codes? or is it proprietary codes that only Subaru dealers can see?

If I do trigger CEL, can I reset it easily?

Runs good when cold when it does start. It looks like there is a maf on intake tube. Where is the fuel relay located? I will check for ETS. (but wouldn't it run poorly cold if ETS suspect?)

I'm always experimenting with concoctions, & about a month ago tried a little bit of the rattle can FF on some rusty spots on the Honda. I think the 99 impreza wells maybe too far gone. So far the spots on Honda still look like its stuck. Told the family not to run thru car wash.

My kids impreza L 1999 runs great, but once in a while it will not start when its below freezing, in the morning before going to work. Today was the 1st time this season, and only 30 degrees. Last year it happen 3-4 times, and then seemed to go away. I did verify there is spark. Now the temp is up to approx 33-34. And it started. I'm starting to suspect water in tank or lines. What's the best solution? I hate adding additives but is there any that are good and really work? (for water) If this no start occurs again, what other diagnostics should I do? I see some say verify fuel flow? Is this done by loosening fuel line at filter? or install a "T" with gauge? or is there a hidden port? Does this engine have a MAF, because I see where some say to pull plug to see if it starts. Where is it located? Should I try ether? if "yes" where is best place to induce it? I did try a bit right behind filter at big hose clamp, but when I cranked, the engine did not actually start but did crank easily and faster rpm. Shouldn't it start momentarily? Any help is appreciated. Thank you ahead of time.

The reason I asked, was on my kids 1999 impreza L, I was chasing a clunk that seemed to happen only when the car was traveling up off the bump/dip in road. I thought for sure it was the strut, but all looked ok. almost to the point of replacing both. Long story short, I had a guy working on the car on his lift, & I told him of clunk noise, & he said, sometimes a rock can get wedged up onto cross member up on frame.(back by the trunk over rear diff) He looked and took a big long screwdriver & pryed some 3/4" ished sized rocks out of the area. I didn't think that would be the actual cure, BUT the CLUNK IS GONE!!!

What car ? year?

I didn't see any drain holes in plates, & I was worried about knock sensor getting wet & therefore cooling a tad, expanding & contracting, possibly causing premature failure.