
bork
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Everything posted by bork
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I got lucky and got a good one from junk yard $40.00. I had alternator re-builder bench test, which he did not want money but I insisted he take something. Make sure you get the right alt., there is differences. I dont remember what the difference was but my rebuilder told me what to look for, & I think the junk yard had a cross over listing as well.
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The paint shop asked me to remove the cross bars for them, & I said no problem. Now I see maybe a mistake saying that. I'm attempting to remove 8 machine screws holding cross members to rails. got 3 out so far. Screws seem to be stainless steel approx 6mm dia and approx 25 mm long. All broke loose but just spin. The 3 I did get out look as if they might be screwed into a steel plate? The center of screw has a semi smooth center of rust caked in threads. Hopefully if I get the rest of screws out, do the cross pieces just lift off? I have screws out on one side & it doesn't want to come off. Anyone have experience in this area?
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For what its worth, I changed PS fluid in my 97 honda odyssey, & let it get too low while refilling. It made awe-full ,loud growling/whining noise. Filled up canister but was still making noise. I shut off engine and waited, and restarted but noise still there. Took a few days and finally went away. I thought for sure I killed it! Must have been trapped air?
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I finally scored both OE top & mid spoiler wings. BUT I dont have any hardware except some of the bolts for mid wing which look like I must drill thru back hatch to attach. But the top spoiler attaches how? Is there special glass anchors bonded to rear glass? to be able to bolt to? I cant find anything in the search function and cant find anything in parts breakdowns.
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Adventure Subaru - Lifted 1997 Impreza Outback (Lots of pics)
bork replied to AdventureSubaru's topic in Members Rides
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I spritz diesel fuel/used oil mix with a cheap dollar tree bottle sprayer, in spring, when I drive car up on ramps. One end the the other end. Yes messy & smelly, & wear goggles, but I hate rust & hoping for prolonging the cancer. Good luck! (I've read in spring is best applied because road dust collects in the film over summer & helps hold it for the winter) I just got a rust free 96 Impreza OB, 51k miles, I plan on treating the area where the rear bumper meets the metal at fender well. Seems they all rust out there. I think it is from the the two parts rubbing together with grit & when salt gets added, it starts rotting. I'm going to pull down bumper at that spot about 1" and apply epoxy to the underside flat spot on metal where the bumper meets. My hope is that once the layer of epoxy is cured & I reseat bumper, it will have a plastic to epoxy surface to rub together, without exposing the metal. Also I will remove the rubber/plastic wheel well edge protectors since I believe they hold corrosive moisture also.
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(1) If towing AT on tow dolly with driveshaft disconnected for 2000 miles, the drive shaft will lay in cradle and will it rub diff? That doesn't sound good if it does touch. Bungee cord it or? (2) If it dies not touch can I idle on & off dolly, and into garage? How does it attach into tranny? Can it slide out? I might need to pick up car and take to storage for a few weeks, then rent dolly again to finish 1500 mile trip. Avoiding bolting & un-bolting driveshaft to move car on & off dolly. Too bad there is not a thin bearing with one side raised outer race & other side would have a raised inner race, too slip in between drive shaft & diff with longer bolts.
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I'm always experimenting with concoctions, & about a month ago tried a little bit of the rattle can FF on some rusty spots on the Honda. I think the 99 impreza wells maybe too far gone. So far the spots on Honda still look like its stuck. Told the family not to run thru car wash.
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- fluid
- undercoating
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