SubieTrav

I just replaced the head gskets last week, the car has 209K miles. The lady I bought it from said the timing belt was done just before she bought it and according to the title she had put about 63K miles on the car. So I fugure just go ahead and do the belt kit now and I should be good for many miles to come.

I already ordered both kits, so I will use the one for 96-97 since it has the same style tensioner. The prduction date on the car is 12/97. making it a 98 but maybe Subaru hadn't switched to the other tensioner.

I'm replacing the timing belt on a 98 OBW 2.5 5mt. The car has a hydraulic tensioner, but looking on ebay they are showing the roller assembly tensioners for 98-99. The kits for 96-97 show the hydraulic tensioners like what is in the this car. Whick kit should I get. 96-97 http://www.ebay.com/itm/96-97-Subaru-DOHC-2-5L-Timing-Belt-Kit-Hydraulic-Tensioner-AISIN-Water-Pump-EJ25-/260967524705?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item3cc2e06961 98-99 http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-99-Subaru-Impreza-Forester-Legacy-Outback-2-5-DOHC-Timing-Belt-Kit-Water-Pump-/360466420907?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item53ed7914ab&vxp=mtr Travis

I went back to the shop that resurfaced the heads and they said they could dip it in a tank of solution and zap it with electicity to extract the bolt. Then they would put a helicoil in. All said and done it wuld cost more than $100. So I just went to the junk yard and pulled one off a car with the cams and lifters for $46 including core. I did try to drill it out with an extractor drill bit, but it broke. I'll look around to find a good quality extractor bit and try again.

I'm replacing the head gaskets on a 98 OB. One of the cam cap bolts broke off in the head. Any helpful ideas as to how to remove the broken part of the bolt that is still in the head.

Same thing happened to me with my 96 OB, the third time I realised each time it happened was when the heated seat was on. I unplugged the heated seat button.

All the time. I watch harbor Frieght for there specials on the latex gloves and buy several boxes at a time. I keep a box in each car in case of flat tire, checking oil, etc. I also keep a box in the house for doing dirty jobs. Travis

Thanks guys, I'm always looking for a bargain on stuff I like to keep on hand.

http://tinyurl.com/au35bbl This is the ad I saw on Craig's List and thought maybe it would be a better coolant. But after reading the bob is the oil guy I guess it is about the same as regular that I bought at Auto Zone.

http://www.autoblog.com/2012/09/30/how-to-tell-if-your-600-craigslist-subaru-has-bad-struts/ This isn't my car but thought the video was funny.

Is the Subaru Life Long Coolant better than regular coolants, can it be mixed with regular coolant. Does it have the conditioner added to it.

No misfires. Engine runs as smooth as before I did the work on it. I'm going to drive it around for a couple of days before taking it in for smog test. Would it be a good idea to as some Subaru Coolant Conditioner?

I put everything back together and started it up. It runs great. I haven't done the compression test yet, spent about an hour trying to get one spark plug out and get the hose for the compression gauge in there so I gave up. My back was killing me. I'm very confident there are no bent valves. If it did have bent valves, wouldn't he motor be running ruff.

I aligned the crank with the correct mark and it started, I didn't run I long as tranny fluid blew all over. I put a bolt in the hose thinking it would hold but when I started it again it just blew out. Ran find for the few seconds I did have it running. Tomorrow I'll do a compression test after I hook up the rest of the stuff. Thanks guys.

I don't recall seeing that mark. I'll go clean it off, and find it. I have been using the arrow on the front of the crank sprocket.

The crank mark is pointed at 0, so which mark should the arrow be pointed at. I guess I'm missing something here.

I did find the service manuals elsewhere on this forum, downloaded and followed them. I put a straw in the #1 cylinder to find TDC. Aligned the double marks on the cam sprockets at the 6 o'clock position. The tb is tight all the way around. I'll do a compression test today. I didn't replace the cam seals, there was no leaks before. The car ran great before, just had a head gasket leak.

Just finishing doing a head gasket on a 96 OB 2.5. I got the timing belt installed and the timing marks were correct after pulling the pin and doing the 90 degree counter clockwise, 180 clockwise turns. I figured everything was set. Car wouldn't start. It turns over uneven, sometimes it sounds good and then sometimes it sounds week. Battery is fully charged, everything is connected except alternator, PS, AC, purge canister, radiator. Any ideas before I pull a head off to see if I bent valves.

I figured things weren't right. I wanted to be sure before trying to start the engine. I was getting tired and cold so I called it a day. I don't have heat in the shop and it started snowing about half an hour later. When I compressed the tensioner, I used a 8" C clamp and it took a couple minute to get it to where I could get the pin inserted. Hopefully it will warm up a bit tomorrow and I can get it finished.

I'm finishing up doing the head gaskets on a 96 Outback 2.5. I got the timing sprockets all lined up, put the belt on and when I released the tensioner pin the left exhaust sprocket jumped 2 spaces. Are the the double marks on the sprocket suppose to be still aligned after the release of the tenisioner? The belt seamed to be tighter between the crank and the left intake sprocket. The belt was quite loose on the bottom between the left and right exhaust sprockets. Is this how it should be or is there something wrong here?

That is minus the torque converter, and the 3 duty solenoids.

I recently replaced a 4EAT out of a 97 2.5Gt and lost the receipt for getting the core back. I went to a metal recycling place and according to there scales it weighed 180 LBS.

If the windshield is distorted it should be covered under the warranty.

I'm going to replace the clutch cable when I get a chance, there is some squeeking noise when I step on the clutch pedal. It would be nice to start in 1st gear and not feel like I'm popping the clutch.

Here is my boxer line up. white 97 Legacy 2.5GT 4eat red 92 Legacy L 2.2 5mt outback suspension, 195/65/15, repainted International Red with a roller, green 96 Outback 2.2 5mt Travis