kayoteq

Still a bit mixed up on it, as I had the spares ready to go. (A year back or so, I salvaged basically a complete 81 wagon wiring complete from the firewall to the battery cables to the little clips on the spark plug wires. ) Anyway.. Yes, I suspect the alternator still, but right now I'm getting strange readings with the alt disconnected. Okay, not fully disconnected. the battery lead is still on, and if it's grounding internally then there we go. But that lead is always on, the power I'm getting is from the RUN setting. And that's with the 2-pin connector disconnected. Wait. oh yeah, that signal to the fuel pump relay.. well. one circuit at a time. I'm wondering about the key switch now. I have two of those, although one is made out of a wiper switch (press wash to start) Warm enough to move around tomorrow. Battle plan.

Oh, we all browse the repair threads. I've got one going now but I still jump around looking for answers in others' problems. We just don't use exact language so the same problem can show up and described entirely differently. For instance, I'm here because I'm trying to determine if the distributor has failed, or the coil, or both in some weird way.

Well, I've gotten nowhere. Fuses, all check out. No burnt wires. Again, to recap: normal... get gas.. sudden dead battery. jump start. 4 miles later dies. No recovery. Towed home. The only glaring what-the is the thick black wire going to the fuel pump relay, that should be ground*.. is giving me voltage on RUN. When connected, No output to the fuel pump lead (blue-red) but it clicks. *according to the 84 schematic. Mine's an 85, but shouldn't be different. Same box as on the 86 hatch.

still checking connections, it's not making sense at the moment, nothing melted other than that one trace. fusibles: good. If the fuel pump was bad, then it wouldn't make any difference on the voltage to the plug. Something between the relay and the plug.. Okay, without the fuel pump relay. normal voltages except. wait. what's run 12v doing on ground? Pull EVERY fuse. still hot. wow. Black wire, correct? Heavy gauge? #5 diagram points to 'earth'. _/-\_ 1 2 3 4 5 6 #5 The adventure continues.. PS I guess at this point I should mention I've made two modifications to the wiring, adding the passing light circuit and a third brake light. I know, extensive. But somehow I feel they may be related. I tried to patch directly per the schematics but I think I may have flubbed on the dash switch power, thinking the first 12v switched I found would do. turns out (the yellow wire) it's part of the ignition circuit. What I interpreted the 'cruise control' power lead was instead a 12v signal. With a bulb between it and ground, anything could be going on here. --- also, a jump start before all this... reading other threads on coils and modules. mayhaps.

Thanks, Yeah, I figured I've pushed a wire or two past their 29-year limits. Reliability, hmph. (sarcasm) Also, it's been finger-numb cold so going for the easiest first. This (Fuel pump control unit) had a lifted trace, or at least it did once I poked at it.. I've replaced that wire since with a wire from a 24v pinball coil. Should be sufficient. Don't know if it was just old or really failed. I didn't have access to a voltmeter when I swapped it, so can't tell if the pump is getting voltage. Again, it did start.. and then died just like before. So that's once. Bonus: 82 Supplemental, since I've been using it quite a bit. http://webmonkees.com/art/brat/82leone1.pdf http://webmonkees.com/art/brat/82leone2.pdf

Swapped fuel pump relays with the hatch, ran.. for a minute. Bad trace on the original relay, burnt, damaged, or old. No damage to the 'new' relay. Still in figuring-out mode. It's 4 degrees, I'm limiting my tinkering time.

Thanks, still not sure what's fried here. Fortunately have a reference hatch to compare things to. But it being quite cold, I'd rather narrow it down. The tach jump was just when the previous battery was really dead. No jump on the replacement battery. (I think. May need to re-test.)

I'd heard about how sometimes folks show up in vintage Subarus and photobomb a STi meeting or something.. Well.. I photobomed the calendar.

It took me awhile, but I finally broke it.. Hardly an indication, just reliable reliable and then poit narf egad dead. Let's start from point a: cold, a bit hesitant. Blamed on darn darn cold. Still, a sufficient warmup time. Get gas. Start car, pull up to lot for a soda. Car will not start. Get jumpstart Car runs. Proceed toward home, but now getting crazy voltage readings. 18v, turn on something, drop to 12, then back. At this point I'm in semi-panic mode The car decides to go for a full panic, and I lose power. Nothing to do but navigate to the side of the road, ponder. It being 19 and dropping, I kind of had a notion i was toast, so I got a ride and a tow. Believe me I've done worse and it's still in my yard to remind me of my incompetence. I don't learn. Okay, I learned to get a tow rather than drive with no coolant. Different story. Post-tow, at somewhat normal above-freezing temps (40-50) Battery: dead. Replaced with newer, but not new battery, charged. Cranks, Still no start. All dash fuses except charging have battery voltage. Swapped out a disty rotor cap with no change. Removed anti-diesel valve pin. No change. "Yellowish" spark. 3.4v at fuel pump droping to nil. Not checked yet: EGR Fuel pump control unit Those other half dozen circuits in the dash. Materials on hand: Spare distributor, alternator Complete system on hatchback (which will run when presented with gasoline) Odd phenomenons, which might be blamed on the low battery of the time: during restart attempts tach jumping, entire system dissapearing from ignition circuit at times (but at that point the battery was showing about 6-7v on the gauge. Odd things like a brake fluid warning light when there is sufficient fluid. And then off. On. Theories: The 18v cascaded through the systems and fried a component or two. That the alternator voltage regulator is not regulating (but the very dead battery might have caused the high volts, dunno) Coil. Signal not getting from dist to fuel pump relay The jump start went wrong somehow. TLDR: near- dead battery caused charging system to go out of spec, causing something to break that didn't get fixed with a fresh battery. Trying to find the part to repair. Ideas? thanks..

Heh.. my brat drivers door lock won't unlock from the outside. Just this month. Now regretting not having hoarded the wagon latchings.. have a 90 Jetta and ice expands at least one handle per season into broken. $15 a pop. run out of options every four years.

At least I'm not alone. Heck I found BTTF Deloreans easier.. they must have had the container fall off the ship or something.. Can't quite justify the $18 sale when I can just mod a o Holden Ute.. patience. Series two. .

Hatchie gas tank washed out vaccumed out (long after gas but still a bit risky) New filter and then blew out a rear brake fitting on the test run. Hey its progress to have it run fast enough to cause the brake to leak. Fluid Warning system worked...

I guess, lacking input, that I should consider the clutch worn and possibly the original or second clutch by this point at 92k. And having not done the procedure.. Heck when I wore the clutch out in the vw it was near bare disk so not good at diagnosing these :-) If anybody like to cchime in.. Its clutch pedal near the floor, but havent checked adjustments. The trans shift and clutch should be smoother, a bit pickier than the Brats.

86 hatchback, 91k but unfamiliar with failure symptoms of trans. Cant get going proper. What normally occours: Take gearbox out of gear push clutch pedal to near floor. Start. Idle. Reverse: no prob. But a foray into tirst requires revving up and usually a stall. Almost like going into the wrong gear but.. Anyway, sputterstall wait for the carb to vent oneonethousand-10 start, repeat. Yes there is a tangible rpm difference when the clutch pedal is pushed even out of gear. Cant quite trust this out the driveway yet. Good old fashioned learn the Subaru clutch kit procedure time? ( have done it on my vws but new to subaru wrenching.) secondary issue that may be contributing is the lack of a fuel return line. Would that cause issues as well? Hey, thanks..

Well some may remember this from a while back, when I visited then.. Well anyway yard of mine it is. (inset is the prior potential parts car..similar price) But too barely intact to give up on yet. And an excellent platform for experimental mods.. Such as the open vent floorboard corners. The way the doors are dissapearing upward. And man do I appreciate that power steering the po put on the Brat. Has some supension bends bad cv boots no ac condensor.. But a uncracked dash with some fixable warp. There will be swapping but back together as the winter stunt vehicle if the trans coiperates. Fluid change upcoming now that the fuel is at least stable. No return line though. so far: Fuel system dirty. Filthy hobbitses. Cheap generic failed fuel pumps. A near oem replacement later.. Caution: loud, may cause cringe. anybody want to chime in on the ticky noise? Sounds good? Moderately tolerable? What tick? I hope so.. Anyway been doing several things with this but neglected to start a thread..

While inconvenient, it would be somewhat amusing that someone would risk jail over a $20 radio. Just keep the packing box on the floor so they know what it is and they move on. :-)

Heh. Just trim? Rattle can black on tan/green camo on red. I would estimate the hood surface to be 90 grit :-) I checked out a Brat once with textured green house paint.

Thats what gets me about thus one fellow. Worried about the world out to get him then leaves his car sight unseen at the lube place. Keep the motor follow the good advice and try to raise cain with the lube shop. Although I suppose this is irrelevant if no records exist at the shop.. 1. Cordial. Give em a chance. If its a big brand theyd be overjoyed compared to the replacement cost of more modern cars their techs have screwed up. (find a aircraft ea81 price list to scare em settle for less) Unlikely but there is probably a figure that lets everybody walk away.. If none of the above works just ensure with the manager whichever tech forgot the oil in an oil changing place is not doing that anymore. Retraining or other.

Doubled the quantity of 86 two doors with a hatchette. . Some repair required. But at an estimated 92k on everything and a uncracked dash.. (theory: cars actually equipped with the optional a/c the dashes last longer. ) new old stock fuel pump. Now on to parts relevant when engine is running.. The return line apparently broke off the tank, sealed and the hose plugged.. Should I recreate the reutrn line into the tank or temporaily my idea put a three plug filter back a the pump and route the return back in?

I managed to luck out and get the relays and all but the theory of operation is: two 12v lines. And ground of course.. to activate lamp and motor relays.. Lamp lid hits switch relay turns off motor. Holds relay. When power on signal is off relay opens again Cycles motor back to close switch when lid is down. One is constant and powers the lamp and motor relays. The second 12v is for the switch. Normally thats a dash switch and indicator. It doesnt have to be high amp, but the lamp/motor relays want juice, it took a few tries before I found one it liked. Just like an amp hookup I suppose. Just remember not to overjuice the motor On a related note just extracted a fog lamp switch from my roller hatch.. Well half of one. The condition of the underdash trim may be excused if that thing went kablooey in the past.. Anyhow, given modern leds and a spare arcade button switch I'll probably have that switch going. .

Subynut, check out what this guy did.. Took the Oxy and air flow sensors to tweak the mix as far as the ecu thinks is going on.. http://autospeed.com.au/cms/A_111536/article.html May be irrelevant but it sounds like the ecu is getting unexpected readings and dumping to default rich mix? Figure out which one is confused and tweak (maybe a MAF with different range? Heard of it done w vws) On less elaborate matters.. Rewired the brat fog lamp and tweaked rear wiper/hatch switches going to a lamp and chime. Later that will go to a powered accesory but for now, ding. A great upgrade to add the wiper switch from the wagon, plugs right in, then find the rear wiper connector under the glove box. .. (lhd) still haven't found the washer wire for the push-to-spray switch. Next: hidden USB charger port for the player. Currenyly picking up coil noise but should sort that out with some grounds or some such wizardry..

Ripping that idea off. Little led displays of compass and temp will fit somewhere in the dash .. Hill-holder® cleaned adjusted and functional. Hold cable release tension rotate stop in out as needed. Be sure all bakward movement is safe during testing/ adjustment.. Find safe hill to test. Safe. Hold clutch pump brake a bit release brake wonder at 25yr hydraulics still doin their thing release clutch adjust for release point.. to be sure the silly thing isn't on when in gear. Weird Subaru Gadget #54: check. Don't forget to put the spare back like I did.

Local sales etc tennessee north Carolina region 85 brat nice $2400 84 dented $1450 85 rusty floor $1000 85 restored very clean drool $3500 went in hours 84 solid could use primer sanding etc $2800 84 parts (won't pass Virginia inspection rust) $300 Not final sale price but demand is there. Example: that $3500 was someone waiting for it to show up. I certainly locked onto mine the sec it passed inspection..