kayoteq

Tabs stocking in.. here I've put planks in place just for stability. friend did reinforce the window area of the top with plate.. and I found some Plating that bolts in place where the seat rails should be for future bracketry. First off need to get new seal and adhesive. What size should i go for exact same as was there but maybe look through the catalogs for a good one.. then windows but that's a different day So the basis is to use the hook areas of the bed sides. I have a bracket tagged to Bolt to the seat mounts above the window.. get that integrated.. is it basic macguyver at Lowes or should I be stopping by a camper place for like universal j hooks and other camper clamp in specialties.. which I the proceed to macguyver to make it work. I like having the top but want it to be a secure and quick process of use.. *can you tell its my first truck?

Still a bit if a project but how is this top supposed to interface with the brat? Previous owner had drilled.. not on my menu. Pics of your setup etc appreciated. The boards inside are cut and drilled to provide some stability whilst I fool without so those are the lower mounting areas..

Disconnect battery.. If the switch is bad the wires wouldn't matter but loose happens. Voltmeter testing.. If you have the means try getting new switch( $30-40) plug it in where your ignition switch plugs.. reconnect battery, turn key so your steering doesnt lock.. if everything works as you rotate positions then proceed to swapping questions... If not then pack switch up return and lets try something else.. How heavy is your keychain- that could cause flutzy ..

I've not distinguished between cold and hot conditions regarding the vibration.. but at the moment may go for the fresh fluids and see.. Yeah right in the 4th only no fifth for me despite my early attcrrrrrempts. So.. worn gear? Better change fluid anyway to check for gear bits. I bet its not as simple as "bench trans remove access panel remove 4th replace" (Not that there's ever been one that simple..) _------update------ Btw no other problem went up to 3200 ft from 1100ft elev. in six miles.. appy mountains. Okay how about this.. thinking about the mechanisms and how I'm coming in from a habit of shifting Volkswagen.. So.. third-clutch-neutral-release-clutch-select gear and smoothly engage 4th.. seems a bit more in gear? Importantly no apparent vibration. So.. bad technique clutching or x component.. or learn this method and have happy 55s.

So 82 they tried orange print instead of orange bulbs. Rare but aesthetically difficult to integrate. Great for folks not wanting to fret over where the red line is..

Sorry forgot.. 85 brat levels and alignment are good.. vibrations Show up at 50-55 then dissapates at faster or the usual slower. only with 4th engaged. 3rd or clutch coast in no rumble. Gears are otherwise fine..

If I was to guess they probably have a lighter setup for 2wd to get a few more MPG. who bought a 2wd except for style and or economy.. Ill leave this to folks who know what they're talking about

What complicated thing is causing the car to vibrate like a misaligned tire at 53-55 but goes away if clutch or third gear.. is engaged.. or faster or slower. Initially was blaming this on me and laggy shifting but at this point it seems fairly consistent. Usually work up speed in third downhill to get speed to be over 55 in fourth.. when conditions permit. No obvious noises the key of most other clutch /tranny issues.. no grinding, Alright I can hear something when the car is out of gear that goes away if i clutch.. but more of a rumble than a rattle. thinking if getting that valvoline synthetic gear oil and give it a change. Probably the easiest way for now.. long term I plan to five speed it but not. Right. Now. nothing amiss other than perhaps a disabled hill holder, but that would not seem relevant.. Perhaps previous owner went 55 just a bit too often?

Bumped some dirt, more dirt then the degreased then unbolting the pan guard degreased and then painted black.. Based on the scratches, not much wildness in its past Cleaned the pan area and stuff in that vicinity.. And of the opinion PO would fix and not clean, but that is good since I use clean engine areas as diagnostic evaluators.. but with all the old gunk, hard to tell what was fresh. Wondering what the opinion on clean vs consistent grease coat in th:e engine compartment Should I be putting a layer of wax polish on those clean body panels or is survival of the metal/ paint not endangered by removal of that gunk* *oily but not "wet" aka just engine emissions settling in.. And not pressure washing; don't want to put water in some odd place in there where it would have never been had it not been washed..

For those leery of hitting the red line..everything's orange red instead of white.. What model is this from? No turbo gauge but it does have center light indicator so 82-83..

Not a picture but.. JDM 84 sedan with 57k kl ready to go back into the showroom.

I'm working on my spare 306-22.. Too much gas in my case.. Stuck float. In theory.. Looked up the characteristics.. And among them.. My issue and then.. Yours? " * A flooded carburetor is another symptom that the carburetor float is sticking. The float is stuck in the open position, allowing fuel to run freely into the reservoir and then into the intake manifold. Once too much fuel is allowed into the carburetor reservoir, the carburetor floods and cannot be started until all the fuel is expelled from the reservoir. Engine Stalls or Hesitates * The engine will begin to stall or hesitate when the carburetor float sticks. This symptom develops under driving conditions when the operator attempts to accelerate. The engine will act as though is it going to die, but catches and begins to accelerate normally. The hesitation of the engine is a similar event." See also: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairguides/Subaru-ff-1-1300-1400-1600-1800-Brat-1970-1984-Repair-Guide/Carbureted-Fuel-System/Carburetor/_/P-0900c15280065ae8

You may need to take note of a newer Vin# when I last tried it said my vin wasn't Subaru If they had older gens.. Cyclops Gasket Rust Repair Stubborn 80s refuge (with Devo logo) Why no love for them? They're made of subaru that makes a subaru built to stay that way.

Wow, that sedan.. no, you photoshopped the brochure in. That black hatch needs a prop rocket for the hatch. Youknowhatimean.. Coming out of the hardware store.. find this. Nearly the nightmare: aka "Why I want a Bull Bar of Substantial Protection" the gap is minimal. either he hit or is a smartarse Navy guy showing off his boating parking skillz. *if* that was the case.. I mean really, that's not good parking. /end rant

Answered the question, does a tall 92 GL center console fit in a Brat? Mostly. Modification: detach and reattach seat belt anchors. Theres also all that space designed to hold the seat belt reels for a passive belt.. So plenty of room to hide things. Probably a few screws to hold things in place. My elbow likes it so far.. The challenge as usual is to always have a unmucked original part ready to put back if things dont work out.

Replaced the fuel return line that was venting fuel. Just the bit between the tank and the rail.. Was pointing downhill so most gas not in system. But I didn't know till the hose was off the nib.. Two spots right past the bump of the tank line fitting.. Friend felt it vibrated into that state.. Now maybe mpg and smell will improve Later, more hose to replace the rest (if you have one leak, good odds the other hoses may be near it) and filters..

Hmm.. Love my untorn ones.. But I play the game by oem. Not many coupe options. Have considered having them restuffed. But yard seats muchmuch cheaper. Duplicolor medium beige as attempt #2 at finding matching tan. The gist of it is effective, but if you have missing texture, itll be a consistent color at least.. Fun fact: no, the glovebox color has _always_ been a bit off.. Review of the brochure pix seems to indicate that, at least for tan.. Installed wagon wiper switch. Plugs right into the harness, then go over To the far right corner, theres a plug with 12v, your swith now powers two of the leads. connect as your muse warrants. Also reccomended: rear defrost switch, and it lights up the indicator. fuse as deemed necessary. Three additional 12v switches and still oem.. Lets hear it for universal wiring harnesses!

Oh, i would have loved to get the motor, (1983), but was just me, and having a vw bug, familiar with the weight. nfw where I was.. To me, though, i am glad to have spares of what i could lift. Next: plan visit to guy with 5spd h/l trans. Plan including lifting devices.

:drool: I'll even bet the window cranks are one color. Maybe they're doing an American version of that

removed most o the contents of a wagon, put it in the truck bed. Mixed feelings, twas a bit rusty everywhere, but mere hours before the whole thing would get crushed. The vin etc had been removed, so no rustoration.. Which reminds me, i should call em and see if I can get the windscreen. Fret not, for it did what it could when it did, and that little chime will ring on. Dingdingdingding

Yep, not worth $400, but $100 of screwdriver, wrench, and time, a cornucoppia of crap. Pm me and ill tell you if i got one of xxx. Or two. Quite weird, all those parts, doing just the first half of r&r.. Gotta work on my intake manifold method..

Okay, now it's become the Subaru Wagon $100 Stripfest. Everything I can pull in one day.. not sure if that means 'and the motor if you can get it out', but will try. (digs out manual) Done with respect and care, but folks, that car ain't gonna have much when I'm done. Blue interior, btw. Taking requests, and no, the rocker panels are not intact. or the dash. Now it gets interesting: betwixt this hour and then, let's get some removal methods studied! and a fresh can of liquid wrench.

Also, subies are more numerous around here.. with both realistic and deluded pricing.. But again, that brat up the road, id hate to miss out on it spending on this.. I have sources for evr'thing, even t-tops. Fellow in NC.. Just tempting to.have a car for the price of a gocart.. Maybe I can convince him my rim buy as partial.. :-)

Sorry for the previous posting, poor mobile texting. ugh. I really just want the motor, and even that's a iffy. I mean that in the most sincere realism despite reputation. It looks to be newer, a quad headlight grille , no center lamp crossmember. Afraid this would be too much of a liability since I don't have a means of disposal. However, I know someone who might. Details as I recall: red valve covers, clean enough to discern ea81 stamping, good set of parts, or at least when I last saw it. Vultures were scavenging, I begged them to leave the factory stuff alone.. sigh. What bothers me is that motor. I don't want the trouble of the whole car, but their argument is they can get nearly that at the scapper. I'd rather horse-trade them a old rusty s10 transmission for equal weight of ea81.. (Have I mentioned I'm in East Tennessee, where such things are plausible)

I was going after some (spare) wheels and the vehicle they came from is an automatic, but good motor, or at least a running one. Right at about scrap value, and a few yards that might take the leftover, or I scrap after stripping a lot. At $400, shoulld I? *definitely ea81. I can read the stamping.