kabarakh

Just wanted to follow-up in case any one else has this issue. It ended up being my crank sensor.

Yah its definitely a MAP sensor then, mounted just to the drivers side of the intake immediately after the air filter.

Double post sorry

It looks about the same amount off using the seam on the head, but nothing outrageous. And I believe it's a MAP sensor not MAF, it has a part number on it that when googled indicates MAP.

Ok, so yesterday I took a closer look at the timing belt and it looked like it might have been slightly off so I went ahead and removed everything, slowly compressed the tensioner (over like 2 hours) and then reinstalled everything... Tried a couple seperate times again to start it afterwards and got nothing... Today I got home and looked at the timing again, and lo and behold it looks to be off! What's the deal? I've done the belt before so I know my marks are on when I pull the pin on the tensioner. Is the tensioner bad? It's fairly old, but had never been used.... and the car ran great for two days. Could the computer have been compensating for it slipping, and then when we went out to start it the next day it was too far out for the computer to let it start? Photos below... it's the drivers side that looks to be off, by a tooth in the direction of the crank. Is that enough to cause a no start condition as well as produce a backfire out the intake? I would have thought that it would still run a tooth off, if badly. Thanks for any and all input!

Yeah it all seemed original as far as I could tell. I don't have anything to test the pressure with, but I'm sure I could find something. I was really hoping it was a sensor somewhere or something simple lol

Photos of my timing belt marks are attached. Can't get a good angle on the passengers side, but it's at 12, with the dash lining up with the crack/seam in the head. Crank and drivers came are both at 12 as well. Also pulled out the fuel pump to look a the O-ring, but I don't really see any canister like my research described... certainly nothing that was 2-1/8" at least. Everything else in there looked ok to me, no o-rings peeking out anywhere. Any other thoughts are appreciated!!! I have spark, my timing appears to be accurate, fuel runs out on the engine side of the filter when I turn the key to 'on' as well as when i'm cranking.... but It still won't start!

I just double checked the timing and got it all back together, and the lines are nuts on. I can take a couple photos in the morning. Anything else it could be?

Staring fluid got me a nice backfire that lit my airfilter on fire but nothing else. Pulled the timing covers off and everything looks good. Any thoughts on where to look next?

I checked for codes this morning and had nothing, I'll follow up as soon as I can spray some fluid into it.

Didn't have any starting fluid on hand this morning, bit I'll give it a try this evening. If it does fire with it what might that indicate? Visually seems like I have plenty of fuel on the engine side of the hose.

Just finished putting rebuilt heads on awhile back, new timing components etc. Car has been running great for a week and then overnight it won't start. I'm getting fuel to the TB, and I'm getting spark. Did I jump a tooth on my timing belt? Bad cam or crank sensor? Thanks! Clinton

A visual reference for any who need it: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.tigraionline.com/broken_sparkplug.html&ved=0ahUKEwiM4uL7z-_NAhUP-GMKHeMgA5UQFghEMAQ&usg=AFQjCNHZ15ArKRITnodmn84A1l2evPLyjQ&sig2=YHBd_FKep4weTUGoBiZvKQ

Just wanted to follow up in case this ever happens to anyone else.... the ez out got it. Still a royal PITA, but $20 in tools is much cheaper than a shop doing it.

So I'm stumped again. Returned the remanned alt and replaced it, but I did have them bench test the one I returned and they said it passed. Plugged in this new one and I Again have current draw. Is my luck really that bad or am I missing something? Would an inline diode on the sense wire help? I can't think of anything else to do offhand, except maybe wire it to my ignition so it only gets voltage when the key is on instead of constantly.