subarusaver

Hello all, I'm looking to replace my locked up a/c compressor for my 1993 Legacy and trying to find a cheaper than $300 solution.Possibly a pull a part used compressor. Does anyone know which years and/or models I can search. I assume since my compressor is not turn-able by hand , it's not fixable. Thanks for any help or ideas!!

Thank you for the reply! I plan on Mobil1 Full Synthetic 5w30 and very regular oil changes, I like 3-4000 miles.Is there any special: 1) coolant brand/ type 2) rtv brand/type( I really like the pressurized cans) 3) and where to download a good Field Service Manual Thanks again for any help!

HERE WE GO AGAIN...UGHHH 2006 Tribeca 3.0 H6 Just bought a 2006 Tribeca one owner with 149000 miles...seemed fine the day I got it....One week later ,top radiator hose on passenger side developed a small hole and made the engine overheat a little.All this time,I noticed the defroster only put out hot/warm air on the driver side and all the forums say that's a stopped up heater core...Every time I turned the defroster on , the engine temperature would immediately start to rise, then I could bleed the air out and/ or turn the defroster off and the engine temperature would drop immediately .WELL ....maybe its the heater core for some people, not me...So I made a loop and hooked the heater core supply lines together so coolant stays in the engine only..I placed a funnel in the radiator and filled it half way and after about fifteen minutes of idling I still get bubbles and when the engine revs they are even more pronounced... 1) Since I am doing the Head gasket job, are there any special odd things to consider for this engine?(Ive been through this process with my ea82, and with my ej22, and my 1.8 Nissan Sentra). I just want to be prepared 2)Is there a best way to check the heater core while I have the engine out? 3)Since this one has a timing chain(and its really quiet btw) anything special things there to consider? Thanks all for any insights!

IT'S FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :bouncy: :bouncy: :bouncy: :clap: :clap: :clap: :banana: :banana: :banana:!!! The new coil and plug wires did the trick!! purrs like a kitten til you step on its tail,then it runs like a wildcat!!! Thanks all for all the suggestions and help!!

I THINK I FINALLY FOUND THE ISSUE!!!!!!! After getting the crap knocked out of me two or three times, I FINALLY thought to check the coil. (I had laid my hand on it to rest my arm while checking the idle air control valve plug)......After reading lots of info on checking coils and diagnosing coil issues, I found an old forgotten technique, go out at night, raise the hood , crank it up, look for sparks....LOTS OF SLIGHT SPARKS around the front side of the coil, especially as it warmed up.One of the plug wires lit up when I sped the engine up as it was missing.....Pretty sure this is the issue....so simple, I overlooked it...I will close this post with final results either way..off to Rock auto for a coil and some ngk wires!!! Thanks everyone for every suggestion!!!!

Question...When I did the re seal, I changed all the timing components...Before this issue started, there was a weird sound from the engine compartment. The sound was like an inner fender rubbing against the drivers front tire it only happened a few times,and went away too fast to find.It did seem to be keeping up with engine speed...Is it possible the belt or cam jumped a tooth? and would this be consistent with with my issue?

UPDATE 2/23/18 After filling up with 92 octane ( my daughter told me she had put low octane in it last fill up) I put a bottle of Lucas octane boost/not street legal..injector cleaner in it . Noticed positive results within the first 50 miles...The problem is still present.. not as severe but still very much there...Tonight, I pulled the Idle air control valve,marked it well,took the top off and cleaned it real good(it was pretty dirty)..Put it back in place and at first the idle was staying around 1500 rpms and just as before, it performs perfect until it gets a HINT that the engine is beginning to warm up,then it has the slight miss at idle when I pat the gas pedal, and stumbles when in a strain at lower idle (still seems ok at full throttle with an exception of some fluttering just not consistent)...I really hate to keep changing parts,but the check engine light is not activated, since I did find STORED codes in the ecm ,I unhooked the battery to wipe them off...I did unhook the NEW knock sensor while it was running and ...it acts the same...Would the o2 sensor cause the putt putt idle? Thanks for any input!!

ANOTHER UPDATE: Today, I plugged the black test connectors together to get the stored codes and got this: 31 Throttle sensor 32 Oxygen sensor 24 Air control valve.....I am assuming 'Idle Air Control Valve' The notes on Legacy Central say this about the IACV ; "Prevents abnormal engine speed using "fuel cut" in relation to engine speed, vehicle speed, and throttle sensor position". Sounds enough like my issue. according to Legacy Central ode List here http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm I do not have a lit up check engine light, so I will follow the procedure in the Legacy central link and see what that turns up...So Far I'm leaning to Sparkyboy's idea about it being the IACV.....It seems to be going that way..

Update..... Since it has been raining for the past two weeks here ,I decided to just drive the car and pay attention.. The issue seems to be gradually becoming more prominent...or regular.. Definitely noticed at first start up,(for at least two minutes) it will NOT stumble or sputter at all..... As soon as the engine gets a hint of warming up(just when the temp gauge starts to move) the problem is present. After it warms up a little,very little, I notice a definite putt putt putt rhythm when idling , and if I pat the gas , I can feel it shake .Once idled up, its smooth until under a load at lower idle... Also I have been able to get it to flutter and cut out under heavy acceleration.. The check engine light did come on once and went off quickly... Any more Ideas? Thanks!!!

Just found lifters on rockauto.com

Do not pass by this opportunity to replace the clutch release bearing!!You will hate yourself if it makes noise when you put it all back together!!(I have been mad at myself for about two years now!!) If it makes ANY noise when you spin it by hand,REPLACE it !! As for the oil pan gasket....My machine shop guy (old guy..they're the best!) told me to use LACQUER thinner to clean the surfaces of the head and block because it leaves NO residue behind.Now I use Lacquer thinner for ANY sealing surface prep...It does help to go by those stupid instructions like wait five minutes....snug all bolts.......tighten to SPEC..etc...The last few times I have done a reseal(85 gl10 wagon ,93 Legacy ,and 05 Nissan Sentra 1.8,the RTV stuff has proven to be problem free.

When I did the reseal(in November), I pretty much polished everything inside,lapped the valves, cleaned the intake and exhaust ports,cleaned the intake , new spark plugs(double checked the gaps .040 I think)..I did not change the fuel filter or the air filter(It's fairly new)..It seems like the knock sensor is alllllmost working perfectly but failing just a bit....It ran fine before this latest incident..and recently,the idle DID catch my attention before the knock sensor replacement...It just had an odd lope or something..BUT the idle is probly between 500-700 rpms....

NOT SO FAST!!! Okay, it worked great the day I installed it, NOW it seems to be having the same(not as severe) problems coming back..If I try fifth or fourth gear at 1200 rpms, it starts the jerking again......I removed the new sensor, cleaned and wire brushed the block, sprayed it clean with brake clean,put it back annnndd .... it didnt help.... NOW WHAT??? maybe cam or crank sensor???

THANK YOU!!!! Consider this one FIXED!! The car runs ALOT better!!! I did not realize just what the knock sensor does,I do now and the car really does run like a new car!! The old one was and had been cracked ..THANK YOU!!!

Hello all, My 93 Legacy wagon 5 speed ,237000 miles 2.2 ej22 newly re sealed by myself...Complete re seal..heads machined,all gaskets...no leaks .. Approx 3 months ago.Just Today it started jerking in fifth gear....I did notice an odd sound when it was real cold here (10 degrees or so)..sounded like a fan blade rubbing plastic just under the hood in front of the steering wheel (or maybe like a piece of plastic rubbing the tire)..it did not last long enough to chase....or find..Now the problem is it misses ONLY under a load and ONLY a SLIGHT load......it idles fine......runs like a race car!! no problems to 6500 rpms!!! but when I lug it or put it in high gear at LOW engine speed(2000 rpms),it misses terrible...and jerks... No Engine codes, Sprayed everything with brake clean to check for vacuum leaks ??????? Any ideas? Thank you for any help

THANK YOU for the help and advice!! O.k. I called the dealer and the SUBARU head gasket is 70.14 EACH!! I cant do that...The one(that mentions Graphite) I found on Rock Auto is 10.82 and MAHLE ORIGINAL/VICTOR REINZ 5905. Any thoughts?

My question was concerning whether the head gasket or the head had failed. I did not mention"steam out the pipe" and steam is created when water is heated until it changes to vapor.There is no requirement for "a large, billowing cloud of sweetish white smoke following the car" in order for steam to be present.(I did experience that with my GL EA 82 though)There also was no "steam billowing out under the hood", however ,the steam was being forced toward the FRONT of the car from the FRONT of the radiator.As far as teaching my daughter,I have two 25&21 years old as different as day from dark,one is concerned about car stuff,one is not..They are females.............Thank you..

THANK YOU GD !!!! I Appreciate the fact that you answered the question I asked!!Now I am going to pull the engine and do a complete re seal( ALL GASKETS) Rock Auto of course... Please elaborate on your comment "Cylinder orientation and HG failure mode are to blame" if you will. I am also going to replace all timing components and water pump and radiator hoses. Should I disassemble the engine before I order parts (just to be sure there are no cracks)? Do you have any suggestions while I am this far in?

Hello ALL!! I have a 93 legacy wagon my daughter purchased two years ago.Current mileage is 236,000 ...My Issue...The other day she said her car was smoking ALOT.. After looking closely, I discovered the radiator had about a four inch vertical crack on the front passenger side.The SMOKE she saw was obviously steam.It did have some significant oil leaks,so I did the crank and cam seals, replaced the radiator,put it back together and after I drove it around a while told her"here you go" as I thought it was running fine,just had a low idle and maybe a slight miss I had not noticed before...Sure enough,next morning I got a phone call..."My car is shaking alot"..So I drove the car home , seemed to have plenty of power.Parked it ,later that evening it would not start,changed plugs as old ones looked like original plugs..It did start,but shook terrible...finally got it running and warmed up only to notice STEAM coming from the exhaust pipe..........MY QUESTION IS ....Can I determine if the head is cracked without disassembly? I am not afraid of that, I just don't have a lot of extra time. Is there any way to determine if it is the head gasket instead?Do the "BLOCK SEALERS" work? Thank you all for any response!!

Thank you for the tip!! Sure enough,it still had the PLASTIC oil vapor separator and it looked like it had been leaking pretty bad. I purchased a metal one from the local parts store for $24...not bad and it even came with screws!!! I chose not to bother the o ring as I could not get the screws out and it did not look like it was an issue. I DID HAVE A STOOPID moment though,which I will list for some other poor soul like me....LOL . My neighbor had come over to help and we talked alot as we installed the new clutch,trying at the same time to explain the way it works to my un interested 18yr old daughter......while NOT paying attention,we re assembled everything. First issue, the engine would not slide all the way back...that took some prying lol.Finally , with only the radiator left and at approx 5am,my neighbor goes home to get some sleep and I was to finish..For some reason I noticed the clutch fork looking looser than normal ,decided to check it from in the car.Well, it went straight to the floor and STAYED there ....YEAH, pulled it BACK out and we had put the clutch disc in backwards...fixed that..getting real tired now..attempting to put the little engine back in I was determined to figure why it would not slide back........I ALWAYS go about things somewhat backwards,so I started at the drive line,then transmission mount,and when there was only ONE THING LEFT, I took out the little bolt that bolts the bell housing to the firewall..and it slid right in to place!!!!! I'm not usually this stoopid ,but maybe someone can get some humor or help from my mistakes...Thank you USMB!!!!!

Hello All!! , OK, I got the sweet little 93 legacy wagon for my daughter,who has pretty much "learned" how to drive a straight shift on.For some reason the clutch is slipping....hmmmmm.(I did make sure it's all the way on adjustment). Any way, I figured it would need one soon so here I go....... My question : is the clutch change pretty much the same as my 84 gl wagon? Pull the engine,change parts,and rear main seal and valve cover gaskets and oil pan gasket....etc etc ? Or is there anything special about it? Planning on doing the job Friday the 28th. ANY THOUGHT OF PULLING THE TRANSMISSION INSTEAD OF THE ENGINE??? Would it be easier that way? THANKS ALL!!

My car is a 1993 Subaru Legacy wagon Five speed All wheel drive I have searched other forums and this one also and cant seem to find a good thread,please help. I need a good source for shifter bushings. The Dealer wants $42 for the joint with bushings installed in the joint, plus $8.42 each for the other bushings(I think he said there are four others). I cant seem to find a good write up or pictures.Is there a cheaper bushing set? Thanks for any help

Just to be PERFECTLY CLEAR.....I purchased 4 each BRAND NEW tires RATED at 70,000 miles wear. I paid under $400.00 for the set,mounted,balanced,and installed..I do appreciate the feedback ,and an alignment is planned soon!!! I LOVE MY SUBIE!!! LOL

UPDATE!!!!! 1) Park Brake-EASIEST THING I'VE EVER FIXED!!!!!-- the thumb button simply screws onto a threaded rod inside the handle..the spring goes in the handle first.I got one from a Kubota RTV that was trashed......IT FIT PERFECTLY!!!!!!!!!!!! 2)Tires....BIT THE BULLET...4 NEW 70k mile tires..Less than $400.00 not upset.. 3)Since the park brake fix,the scrubbing is somehow better...like that brake(right rear) was not working until I fixed the park brake.... 4)Shoulder Belt Thing....Kind of tough...one broken wire between the door and body...that was tough to get to,but I fixed it. 5)Shifter bushings.......Still trying to find best solution..

Thanks Montana Tom..It will be a week or three before I can have some time with the car, I will try to keep you posted as I progress