NorthWet

The part number for the metal governor valve driven gear is: 31888AA001

The mechanical fan was only installed on models that had A/C. If you don't have/use the A/C (and your model is not a turbo) than you should be able to get by on just the right-side electric fan. Otherwise, as previously mentioned, the left-side electric fan from an A/C-equipped EA81 might work. Alternately, you might be able to fit a pusher fan in front of the radiator.

If the engine is not running you will get a couple of those codes... pretty sure about the "12", probably the "11". The crank angle sensor is in the distributor (a slotted disk with optical detector), and since it is not moving with the engine off you will see a code. The car will not fun if this is truly a problem. Diagnostic connectors should be disconnected for normal running. If left connected, the ignition timing will be fixed (no ignition advance) and the fuel pump will cycle on and off as long as the ignition is on, even when the engine is not running (a potential fire hazard). Purge control solenoid is a common failure; several ways to deal with it. I am not sure about the "air control valve", and I am too tired(lazy) to look in my manuals at the moment.

SOHC - One cam per cylinder bank. Hopefully, this was for your own information rather than some Parts Store person asking you...

Then there is the "other other way"... Disconnect Solenoid wire at starter, have someone turn the ignition key to the "start" position, and use meter to see if coil gets power. More than one way to skin a cat... though I have never found a reason to WANT to skin a cat.

To set timing, you hook the green diagnostic connectors together (the ones back next to your XTs ECU in the trunk), hook up a timing light, start the engine and turn the distributor until the proper timing marks are aligned.

I would agree that, in the end, it is best to let an AC guy fix, evacuate and recharge the system. That being said... The AC system contains both refrigerant and lubricating oil. Usually whenever you get a gas leak some of the oil will also leak out, leaving oily residue around the leak site. Check all of the fittings (leaking o-rings), the condenser (for cracks and FOD damage), hoses for rub-throughs, and around the compressor drive-pulley (front and back) for a leaking front seal.

I would defer to Scoobywagon on this unless my memory gets corroborated, but IIRC, there is a difference as far as side-bearing retainers and matching stub-axles. This makes it so that axles have to match the stub-axle type, and there may be differences as to what stub-axles fit which diff "chunks". This is meant to be more of a "I think there is a difference" post rather then me saying that I know what the differences are.

"Both sets"??? There is only one set of triple-lines. Do you man that you turned the flywheel until the bellhousing pointer pointed at the middle line of the 3 lines, checked that ONE of the cam sprockets was aligned with its mark, then turned the crank one full rotation until the 3 lines on the flywheel appeared again and checked that the OTHER cam sprocket aligned with its mark?

I would be a little concerned about a machinist that hadn't dealt with full-floating wrist pins.

Please clarify: Does the rotor turn if you grab the rotor and try to turn it by hand? In other words, did the screw that holds the rotor to the distributor shaft fall out so that the rotor is no longer keyed to the shaft?

If yours is an SPFI, than it is not a turbo. All of the EA82 turbos used MPFI and had dual intake ports (it is not practical to port-inject siamesed intake ports). The issue while going through right hand sweepers is a well known fault of the PCV system. The noise is detonation due to ingested oil, and the blue cloud is... well... burned ingested oil. I can't find the recent post by GD about how to get the dealer to fix this, but here is the general idea of how to do it yourself: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66882&highlight=sweeper

Most US models did not have an oil cooler, so it is good to know that your Leone already has one. K&N filters might not be an improvement: There is no improvement of airflow, it does not filter out fine particles as well, and the oil used on the filter can contaminate the sensor element on the Mass Air Flow (MAF) unit. I would recommend against it, but you are free to make your own choices. It is common to replace the IHI RBH5 V7 turbocharger with a TD04 turbocharger. No one has found flow-maps for the V7, and does not seem to be an efficient unit. The TD04 will fit with a minor change to the turbine inlet flange. (One bolt is in a slightly different place.) If you use an EVO turbo, that would be interesting for you to write about. The "uppipe" (exhaust pipe from head ports to turbine inlet) does not appear well designed, having some restrictions and non-optimum joining angle. They also tend to fracture where the pipe is welded to the turbine inlet flange. International shipping is expensive, but I am happy to hear that you have access to parts. It also sounds like you have a good idea of what you would like to do. Do you have relatives or friends in North America that can ship parts to you for a reasonable price?

Lesson to learn: Parts stores' listings for Subarus are grossly inaccurate. the usual proble arises from the overlap of models with EA81 and EA82 engines, and the listings either make no distinction of jumble them. 4psi is a carb pump in any pretty much car. 40+psi is EFI territory. I have no personal experience, but I would think that there is no need to prime the pump with a turkey baster. It is IIRC below the fuel level in the tank, and even then it should be able to lift the fuel to its intake... unless it is the wrong type of pump and it requires priming. Are you sure that you installed the pump so that both the flow direction and the wiring will pull from the tank and push to the engine?

In the USA, we try to teach English in schools for 12 years. Sometimes it still does not get learned. :-\ Foreign languages do not get much teaching time in the USA; I speak only English and computer (machine language). If any of my words or phrases do not translate well, please inform me. In the USA, we use many idioms and "slang" words that may not make sense. (Does the word "slang" have meaning outside of English?) Many of the USMB members do not like the Leone engine, especially the turbochaged version. They have valid views of reliability problems and the cost of getting minor increases in power. But these are opinions and views, and it is your car to do with as you choose. It is difficult to reliably increase power for the turbo Leone. It was an inexpensive car that was not built to tolerate modifications. You should check to make sure that the cooling system is working to optimum: New hoses, new thermostat, and the radiator in good condition. Most Turbo Leones fail due to cooling system problems. Adding an oil cooler would help reliability. The most useful modification might be adding an intercooler in the intake system. The turbo heats the intake air greatly, with temperatures reaching 100degC. An intercooler can reduce the temperature greatly, reducing the chance of detonation and lowering engine operating temperatures. The ECU is primitive compared to more modern designs, and the fuel injection system is marginal for handling modifications. It runs lean at times and rich at times. There is no known modifications for the factory ECU. There are engine management sytems that can be adapted, but they may cost too much for any improvement they might provide. Other ideas that members might have depend on availability of parts, and I do not know what is available around Kiev, or what can be easily imported.

I forgot about your wanting Cruise Control parts. Do you have Cruise Control on your Leone and you need some parts to make it function? Or do you want a complete Cruise Control system to add onto your Leone? Also, I am told that there are 2 types of Cruise Control, one that was installed when the car was manufactured, and the other installed by the Dealer who sold the car. My understanding is that the Manufacturer-installed unit has control buttons on the steering wheel.

There is no need to apologize for speaking a language better than many native speakers. Within the USA market, there was no special ECU for the RX. All of the turbo vehicles from the same manufacturing batch (typically "model year" within the USA) used the same ECU. They also, to the best of my knowledge, did not have any engine tuning differences. The only exception that I know of is our XT (elsewhere also known as Alcyone, Halcyon, or Vortex), some of which had a special "spider" intake manifold. I believe that the European market received differently equipped or tuned versions of the turbo motor, some of which might be the 150HP version. I think that some of our Western European members have discussed this. In the USA, the major difference between the RX and other turbo vehicles was mostly in suspension and interior "trim" (seats and fabrics).

Welcome to the USMB! No need to apologize for your English. It is better than my Ukranian or Russian. I imagine that you normally use the Cyrillic alphabet also? I am impressed by your language skills. There was only primitive diagnostic ability on that ECU; it uses proprietary self diagnosis, displaying a "Check Engine Light" (CEL) on the dashboard that indicates that there is a current problem, an LED (Light Emitting Diode, if LED does not translate properly from English) on the ECU (which is under the steering column), and diagnostic connectors that are located near the ECU. There is very little support from companies other than Subaru, and no performance parts other than what was originally offered on the car. In the USA, these were marketed as mildly "sporty" versions of a basic economy car. I do not know of any person who has produced any modifications (such as a "chip") for these ECUs.

Don't expect miracles: Unless you are exaggerating your time-to-speed, then there is something not right with your engine's performance. My 4WD SPFI 3AT had no trouble getting to 60MPH in what seems like 12-15 seconds, certainly no more than 20 seconds.

That is all. XT got both NA and turbo versions of the MPFI dual intake port, and the turbo version was used in the 3-door, sedan and wagon.

The check engine light only comes on if the sensor produces an out-of-spec value. For instance, the CTS can be flakey enough to cause the engine to run very poorly yet not throw a code.

I beg to differ with naru on this: The damage to the armature will cause severe issues, electromagnetically. Magnetically, it is essentially like shorting that entire section of the armature where the steel laminations have been smeared into each other. Current draw will be excessive and the armature will likely get far hotter than it should. This is not even considering that SOMETHING aberrant caused this damage and will likely just cause more. (I think that Milesfox is probably right as to the cause.) Replace the starter. There is another current thread about a bad starter, and one poster said that rockauto has replacements for around US$40, and used starters can be had from 20 years of subarus.

Are you sure it is a rod knock, and not something else? e.g. - the HLAs (hydraulic lash adjusters) Any idea how long the bearings were exposed to water in the oil? (As in, was this a one-time "things went bad", or a chronic exposure over weeks/months.) Possible that the bearings were damaged by exposure to coolant and started to come apart; might already have been doing so, and this aggravated the problem.

SJR is (relatively) local to you. Might want to ask Scott. I am guessing that the camber is because the control arm is mounted in its usual position relative to the struts upper unibody mounts, so the control arms are angled downward excessively, and that will pull the bottom of the hub/strut assembly towards body centerline.