NorthWet

The governor valve is truly this tranny's Achilles Heel. Lots of people on this forum do not like the 3AT, think that the only good 3AT is a "dead and swapped out 3AT". It is on par with its contemporaries, and in fact one of the other Japanese car companies used the same JATCO M41 core in their cars. Keep the fluid fresh and they usually do OK. The fluid get cooked due to neglect, low fluid levels due to leaks or modulator diaphragm rupture, and engine cooling system issues (like low coolant levels) making the radiator-tank ATF cooler ineffective. If you have caught the governor before the gear shows damage you probably have many more miles of life left in the tranny... with proper maintenance.

Modulator is only used for kicking down into a lower gear under heavy throttle... I think that it only has an effect in D. Usual failure mode for it is to rupture its diaphragm, sucking ATF into the intake, lowering the tranny's ATF level and giving you a white smoke screen. Diagnosis for a ruptured modulator is to pull the rubber hose loose from the modulator and see if the hose is damp with ATF. My money is still on the governor valve. The only good way to tell if the parts are sliding smoothly is to disassemble it and slide the parts by hand. Every sliding part should slide as easily as "a hot knife through butter". If there is any hanging-up, stiction, tightness, whatever, then the thing will act funky.

It is not necessary to change anything to do an R134a retrofit: The A/C system will function, albeit not as well, with R134a instead of R12. The biggest issue is type of oil used in the system. Standard R134a uses an oil that is incompatible with the oil used in R12 systems. But you can get (at least you could last time I did a retrofit) cans of R134a that have oil compatible with older R12 systems. No flushing needed, no parts replacement needed. There will still be issues of lower efficiency and probable micro-leakage through the hoses. But, the system will function and do so adequately. Regarding obtaining R12, to the best of my knowledge, unless you have the proper certification you are not legally allowed to buy R12. I am assuming that if you are not certain about retrofitting issues that you do not have the training to get the certification in order to purchase R12 legally. Please note that throughout I have made a distinction between what is needed and what would be desirable/optimal.

All EA82 CV/hub side are the same. The spline count is only for the tranny end, having to do with the stub axles in the tranny.

Going to pull what/which? From the picture, I would guess that you had already pulled the governor... are you pulling the tranny? If so, heavy, nasty, annoying work. I think of it like having my wisdom teeth pulled: I am glad that they did them all at once, 'cuz I never would have gone back for the rest. Definitely good luck on doing an R&R. Did I mention that the tranny is heavy?

My studs regularly unscrew. (Lots of subies in my herd, none newer than 92.) Not a big deal in and of itself. I haven't had one pull its threads out...yet. (Three little letters, so much pain.) I don't think that i have paid more than a couple of bucks for a exhaust stud, even from the dealer. i have noticed that the dealer prices seem to be .... ummmm... "variable".

Probably should be asking for the governor gear, or governor driven gear, or maybe throw "valve" somewhere in there. I have a couple laying around here (somewhere!!!) with the part number still on them, and a receipt somewhere that also has the part number... unfortunately, neither is going to be located tonight. (OK, well I tried to find the receipt, but it must be in some silly receipt box instead of with the car. Hmph!) After nosing around in SEARCH, about the best I can do for you is a number which may or may not be valid: 31450AA021. It comes from this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=93817 I suspect it may be an assembly rather than a gear. I get frustrated talking to dealerships on the phone, so I usually just go in and direct their visual search for the part. (Computer-age version of microfiche...) It is not uncommon for even a decent a parts person to not have a clue about older models.

Somebody is going to say it, so I guess it is me... SEARCH is your friend: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=118774 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=119071 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105831 In case you can't get at these links, some good info from MilesFox: In one of the other, older threads, GD suggests going to 7/16-20 if you don't want to helicoil damaged threads back to the 10x1.25.

If you do go with the EA82, the MPFI versions will usually be identified as MPFI, Turbo, or for an "XT" model. If you were planning on building your own intake manifold, any of these could use a carb. The SPFI and MPFI use a different distributor than the carb models, one that is controlled by the ECU (Engine Control Unit, aka computer). The EJ-series engine, as sold in the US, is distributorless, so it would take a little ingenuity to use it without an ECU. (It does, however, have provision for a distributor, as it was sold that way in other markets.) What transmission are you planning on using? I am assuming that, for first cut at least, you are planning on a VW transaxle. There are adapter plates and kits available, Kennedy Engineering being a popular vendor. Pretty popular to adapt the EJ-series into Vanagons.

Lots of people swear that you should always use a Subaru-branded sensor. Me, I don't have any practical experience with back-to-back comparisons of OEM vs. "aftermarket". I have not as yet bought a sensor at my stealership. That being said, you will probably find that most aftermarket sensors, regardless of what the box says, has ND (Nippon Denso) stamped on them. I first noticed this with a Bosch-boxed sensor. All of the aftermarket sensors that I have bought have had anti-seize already applied.

My first one I did when I was totally clueless (not much has changed, really ), I did not use penetrant and just tried to muscle it out. It turned nicely from initial break-loose to about the 1/2 turn point and then stuck. I just used more force, and all of the threads tore off of the sensor, leaving an almost smooth surface on the sensor... Took me a week to figure out that a sparkplug chaser would work to remove the old threads. Yes, it can get really ugly. The last one I did, on my wife's Mazda, came out nice and easily with no drama at all (other than no room for a rachet/breakerbar). Prepare for the worst, and hope for the best.

Temp fix could work, just will cost another $40 for a new driven gear. Your choice, but I would probably still think it is worth it to buy me time.

O2 sensor socket should be around US$10-15. The thread chaser should be similarly priced. I would imagine that the appropriate-sized flare wrench would be much more (unless, perhaps, you had time to shop around). example of slotted socket example of flare wrench-style socket Example of thread chaser (looks like mine but picture is on wrong item...)

If you do this, do one side at a time, and mark the relative position of the retainer and count the turns required to remove it. The retainers set the lateral positioning of the ring gear, so you need to screw them back in the same amount as you removed them.

To clarify, Is this in regards to the swap, or the buy-me-some-time tranny fix? (The latter does not involve touching the exhaust, but there might be some misunderstanding here. ) Regardless, as 91Loyale typed, get new exhaust gaskets. Opinion seems to run towards Subaru dealer's gaskets for exhaust and intake. I would not expect to see RTV ANYWHERE near the exhaust system; this just sounds odd.

I think that as long as you are open and honest and not trying to blame THEM (which 90+% of customer service calls sound like) they will be happy to help, if for no other reason than relief that you are not complaining. They might even get a good chuckle out of it. They will know, or at least know that they can't foretell the future and will tell you so. (I did about 10 years of phone support, and really enjoyed dealing with someone who wasn't trying to "tear me a new one".) Otherwise, follow the sound advice from GG.

As Fairtax4me typed, it is more commonly (around this side of the country, at least) referred to as a flare wrench or a flare nut wrench. They are the type used on the flare nuts used on brake lines and such. If you go this route GET A GOOD ONE... cheap ones can bend apart and be worse than useless. Personally, I would just get an oxygen sensor socket from anyplace that carries auto parts/tools. These sockets have a slot in their sides that the wire can hang out. IIRC, most removal instructions that I have seen involve turning the sensor 1/4 turn, resoaking in penetrant and letting them sit for a few hours (24 comes to mind, but I imagine that is just if you are patient), then re-tightening it, and then removing it. The usual penalty for impatience, lack of penetrant oil, and/or bad karma is that the sensor leaves all of its threads in the O2 bung. (The case of the sensor is just sheet metal, and the threads peel off of it easily.) Speaking of which, another nice thing to have around is a sparkplug thread chaser, as the larger sparkplugs (typically???) have the same threads as the O2 sensor. (I think it is 18mm, and I have a dual-ended 14mm/18mm chaser.)

The advice from Miles is good, but is most applicable to use in cars. Your application MIGHT have different priorities/desire/needs. (The EJ-series is slightly heavier, or EA81s might be more reliable due to being pushrod rather than belt-driven OHC. Stuff like that.) Are you looking for good-used engines, are you planning on rebuilding the engiens first, or are you looking for already rebuilt engines? For decent-used engiens I personally like the imported JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) engines, which are used pullouts from cars in Japan; typically have 40k miles on them. Others have different opinions on this option, seeming to range from OK through mixed-experiences to really bad experiences. If you want already rebuilt, CCR (Colorado Component Rebuilders; [Emily, sorry have I misremembered the name ), a vendor with "presence" on this site, is highly regarded.

+1. Your car is an oddball for parts-counter people. This is one case where you do not want to confuse them with facts. BOVs are not terribly useful at such low boost... unles you consider "useful" to mean makes a noise that you like and screws up the mixture (by venting already-metered air to atmosphere). A recirculating valve (forgot the more proper name...) would function better, but without the boy-racer sound and without the mixture going wonky. But still not much use at stock boost pressures.

The 4EAT in a Loyale is a nice upgrade. The 4EAT is a physically larger tranny, and from what I understand the L-sereis/Loyale body was changed starting in 88 to allow for a larger transmission tunnel. (The 4EAT could be found in 88-80 turbo models in the US.) In an 88-or-later body, an EJ with 4EAT sounds like a good match.

There is no difference between left- and right-side axles. Axle spline-count depends on what transmission you have. All 3-speed automatics (aka 3AT) use 23-spline, regardless of turbo or not. The 4-speed automatic, which yours might be, uses 25-spline. All 5-speed 4wd manuals for turbo cars use 25-spline. I suspect that you have a 4-speed automatic (aka 4EAT). This is a relatively uncommon tranny (IIRC, only available on 88-90 turbo models). Not sure what you mean. Loyales do not have a BOV unless someone added one. (Not very useful on a stock engine.) If you are talking about the intake box and in-fender "snorkus", there is no practical gain to be had in modifying it.

I once upon a time had a misadventure with a tow dolly. I stupidly was continuing up a "shortcut" road that rapidly narrowed, turned to dirt, and uphill.... while, of course, it was raining. So, smart me, I tried to do a u-turn at a driveway... jackknifed the tow-dolly and managed to get the towed car to come partially off the dolly. First order of business was to get the car back on the dolly, so I hooked 3 ratchet straps together so that I could reach the nearest sturdy-looking tree, and slowly ratcheted the car back into the wheel pans of the dolly (with the help of a floor jack.) After the car was secured, able to use the straps to "fix" my jackknife. There was another 2 hours of stupid choices before I was pointed back to safety, but the straps were just observers for that.

It might or might not... frankly, I think the best source of information might be to contact mizpah and ask their opinion. Glad to hear that you tracked down the issue. Did you ensure that the relief springs were still serviceable, or perhaps replaced them?

Miles was probably answering the other guy. The governor valve only affects how the transmission automatically shifts while in "D"rive. If the tranny functions in "L" and "2" (and R and N also), but acts funny in "D", then the problem is usually governor valve related. Common issues are that it gets gummed-up and/or the driven gear on it gets excessively worn ("applecored").

Check out this How-to: http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/Transmission/Governor/ATgovenorclean.htm