NorthWet

+1 on what Mikeshoup typed. BTW, unless you know that you have a problem with the heads they are probably OK (other than needing a normal milling and maybe a valve job).

I have an FSM for it. I know that used is not new, but the "new" one didn't have a pie section of the annulus coming loose; physically better than what was there. Regarding the light not going off immediately, when I swapped it out I hadn't considered that it was a one-wire sensor and needed to round through its mount. Car was a salt-belt car, and the old sensor was rusty and in general cruddy looking, and I didn't clean the block mount pad. Maybe contributing to the ECU code.

Since I had e code for the knock sensor, I went ahead and replaced that. Old one was cracked, like PO had overtorqued the mounting bolt or something. Put new (used) spare in, started it up and it was still throwing the "22" code for the KS. Oh well, probalby just need to clear/reset the ECU. We have been driving it around for a couple of days, never too far from home (until I took it to work last night). No probs yet, but as they say, " One robin does not a spring make." I'm going to be annoyed with Subaru if a faulty knock sensor keeps the engine from starting.

To both you and GD: Yeah, I know. I just wanted it to look impressive without actually being so and making me seem self-important or something.

+1^4!!! My "work area" at best is 2" crushed rock (all sharp corners), and at worst is dirt/mud. I haven't had much trouble with stands sinking in, but my shop jack does some "interesting" things. Like Turbone, I just want a big garage for a house.

OT: Sounds like a request for a suggestion... Do not engage. If someone with conviction is talking what you consider nonsense, just do not engage them in conversation. They are not going to change your mind, and you will not change theirs. It is a waste of both parties' time, and just spreads ill will. Relax, breathe, and go read and share knowledge where it will do good.

Read pg3 of the aforementioned thread. GL-10s use replaceable bulbs for illumination.

Actually most of the people that I have heard talk about them think that they work quite well. If your fan isn't noisy/loud on its highest setting, then you may have an issue with your resistor/motor. Or, didn't you just post about sticky/stuck ventilation buttons? Same car? The ventilation flaps may not be moving properly.

Regarding the clock - Check out: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26603

Same for the L-series sedan/wagon. The only difficulty that I experienced is removing the screws that mount the resistor pack and restrain the motor... pain in the rear if someone has already munged the screw heads.

Another possibility if flow is low (rather than plenty of flow but air is cool) is that I have seen one heater motor where the brushes wore the commutator so badly (1/4" groove!) that the motor would not function properly.

I haven't heard one way or another. The FPR is pretty simple, and the only differences might be attachment details, base pressure, and flowrate (totally guessing here).

It is a 4WD... started life with a 4EAT (now living with me) and was swapped to a D/R 5-speed. Loyales, even the turbos, tend to be closer to DL trim then GL, and there are a few minor differences, but GD is right in that it is mostly badge engineering. "Collector value"??? Loyales were meant to be the cheap entry in Subaru's lineup when the Legacy came out; hardly "collector" material. And there seems no sense in looking for 2WD parts.

We run 87 octane all of the time without any noticeable issues.

With green connection made, I can hear the pump cycling, so my (unconfirmed) belief is that the pump is running. Also as previously stated, I have not verified pressure or flow yet. First thing I plan on doing is replacing filter and checking pressure/flow. Hopefully will have the time and weather to do this tomorrow.

I can't think of what sensor he would be talking about. The CTS itself doesn't seem to go bad often, but the connection seems to be the usual problem. grossgary has done some nice write-ups on this problem; I went with his advice and have soldered wires directly to the CTS and put the connector somewheres serrviceable and less prone to corrosion.

Treat the EA81 right and it will last nearly forever. Make sure it has plenty of clean oil and a decent cooling system. Gear driven cam, pushrods, solid as a rock.

CTS is a variable thermoresistor. If its apparent resistance changes due to connector corrosion, it is likely to still be within "spec" but indicating a temp way different from reality.

10-30 seconds. Runs out of added gas and dies, giving same issues with no-start.

Its not flooding: Dribbling gas into the TB airhorn and resealing allows engine to start immediately(dies once dribbled gas runs out). Indications are that it is a fuel cut after a revolution or two.

c'mon, tell us how you REALLY feel! Playing Devil's Advocate for a moment: Sometimes reinventing the wheel gives one an appreciation for the simplicity and functionality of the original design...

Not yet... worked 13 hours of overtime at my second job last night, wife's second job is in retail at a mall, so diagnostic time and "testing with help" time has been almost nonexistant so far. I plan to do more testing and parts swapping tomorrow. Doubt that a DMM will show much, as the general feel is that injectors work for a cycle or two (i.e. - it tries to "catch" first revolution or two each time a start attempt is made).

IIRC, the alt plug is common to many alternators and available at your local parts store for a buck or two. Used for years on GM ext VR, so pretty common.

OOPS!!! (sheepishly wipes egg from face) There are only 8 bolts. The "9th" that I saw was for the cam cover. Cause of the sticking is probably just a combo of the sealant and the big locating dowel pins. Apologies for the bogus info.

Park function is usually controlled by a switch assembly on the wiper motor... sort of like a TPS. Once the motor turns a certain number of degrees off of its "parked" postition the motor will continue to receive power until it parks itself. The switches that I have seen (datsun/mitsubishi) used a circular switchbase with arched copper contact strips, and contact-wipers that move along them. On one car, the contact-wiper for the park function had broken off. My Datsun's had just gotten grungy on the contact strips. My T-Loyale has no intermittent setting, my GLs have it, and my GL-10s have the adjustable intermittent (very nice).