suprunner
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Posts posted by suprunner
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To complete this topic here is what I did:
I grabbed a piece of High temp/Pressure Fuel line with an ID that matched the 2003 EJ253 PCV that threaded directly to the block. I put a hose clamp on it even though it was snug. I then Jammed that hose into the large J-bend hose that goes to the PCV in the DOHC Intake Manifold. I have over 3000 miles on this, and no change in hose integrity. We'll see what happens when North America thaws, and I'm back down in the desert. Thanks for all the help!
Greg
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SOLVED
Body: '98 OBW
Current motor: EJ251 block, EJ25D heads (rings are letting oil be consumed, and there are sounds of the beginnings of rod-knock)
Newer motor: Reman EJ253/251 block, EJ25D heads.
Hey folks.
I bought a reman block form subaru. EJ253/251 block for a 2003 forester. Mating it with EJ25D heads to replace my current hybrid (EJ251 and EJ25D heads). Everything is just about ready to go except the PCV system. The newer block has what appears to be a threaded-in bung to accepted a threaded PCV. Being that the intake I'm using is for the heads, it already has a PCV. Has anyone put a newer block into an older system and routed the PCV system successfully? The old-style is just a pipe that comes out of the block, with the vinyl tubes coming off of it. They don't fit over the new interface. I'll try and get photos soon.
Looking at pictures for the newer PCV, it doesn't look as if its outer diameter is the same inner diameter of the older crankcase hose that would be going up to the PCV on the intake. a
Thoughts and advice much appreciated.
Greg
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On 12/2/2021 at 4:18 AM, lmdew said:
You multimeter can lie to you unless you are checking voltage under load!
LoadPro is the tool you need to add to your toolbox and use on your multimeter.
Get a 9v battery, read voltage at the terminals. Now wet your finger, put it on one terminal and put the meter lead on your finger and read voltage. It will be very close to the same reading but you can't power the circuit through your finger. The meter will lie to you. LoadPro solves that issue. Search LoadPro Voltage Drop test on youtube.
On order.
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5 hours ago, idosubaru said:
You’ve checked all bulb sockets and pigtails related to headlights? Make sure no rear or front headlight, low beam, high beam, taillight are corroded or bad?
disconnect each headlight and tail light one at a time and see if any impact voltage differently.
If there’s more than one per assembly - disconnect each wiring plug in the headlight assembly independently and the entire tailgate if there’s easy access (some are easier than others).
Im not familiar with JDM but if any custom wiring was done that’s the first place to start. I worked on a friends problematic headlights last week. Turns out previous shop reversed the wiring to a replacement bulb connector. Still worked but not correctly.
Hey thanks for getting back! The JDM headlights have separate bulbs for Daytime/parking lights, Headlights, and Brights. So, when I pulled the two relays, that only shut off the main headlights and kept the daytime/running lights up front and all the tail lights illuminated (I also had the rear defrost, radio, and heater on) and the voltage at the battery maintained 14v. Once I put the relays back in the main headlights came back on, and the voltage at the battery began dropping below 14v.
Greg
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Are the wheel-wells even wide enough for 33's? I may not be an expert, but I think you might need a sub-frame with solid-axle conversion for that...
https://lasvegas.craigslist.org/cto/d/las-vegas-2004-subaru-outback-35th/7408458430.html
I don't think those are 33's...
Good luck,
Greg
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@lmdew @idosubaru @1 Lucky Texan @nvu @ronemus
I replaced the battery terminal clamps with marine-clamps. The copper of the battery cables were no longer shiny and had some oxidation, so I made brand new positive cable from battery to starter, and freshened up the cable/terminal connector from the positive coming out of the fuse box. Brand new ground cable from battery to starter/bell-housing, battery to front body, and battery to intake manifold. Volt meter now reads a stable 14.1 with everything on (fog lamps, rear defroster, heater, radio), except the headlights or hazards.I pulled the headlight relays and the volt meter went from 13.8 (and looked as if it were dropping) back to 14.1. I have the JDM projectors installed. I assume that I need to chase the grounds to the headlights? Or convert the H1 bulbs to LEDs? Both?
Thanks for all of your help,
Greg
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4 hours ago, idosubaru said:
Yes.
More devices require more amps, voltage stays the same.dang. I have work to do then. Thank you.
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On 11/22/2021 at 6:22 PM, ronemus said:
Your battery voltage at idle should be ~14V, so you either have something demanding so much current that the alternator can't keep up at idle or a bad alternator. It could also be a connection issue - try removing and re-seating the relevant connectors, and loosen then re-tighten the ground connections, and be on the lookout for corrosion,
Is that voltage at idle no matter what the load? Like if I have the headlights, fog lamps, and rear defroster running, it should still be at about 14 volts?
Greg
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3 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:
triple check battery clamps?
the car will run for a little while with the alt belt removed. Might help with some diagnosis.
corroded bake light connector (remove bulb, look inside socket), bad 1157 type dual filament bulb(drooping/shorted filament), or bad wiriing in the 'gaiter; from body to hatch may play into this.
Found two bulbs on the passenger side that had corroding sockets. Unplugged them. While running, and lights off, voltage just continues to drop. Over a 10 minute period of idling, the voltage at the battery dropped from 14.6 to 14.0, even when I had the lights off, and any other accessory power-draw deleted. Safe to say my alternator is dying?
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18 minutes ago, brus brother said:
subaru re-manufactured may be available at reasonable cost. call around dealers.
Subarupartsdeal states that the original part # and replacement part # have been discontinued. They purchase/supply from Subaru warehouses.
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1 hour ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:
triple check battery clamps?
the car will run for a little while with the alt belt removed. Might help with some diagnosis.
corroded bake light connector (remove bulb, look inside socket), bad 1157 type dual filament bulb(drooping/shorted filament), or bad wiriing in the 'gaiter; from body to hatch may play into this.
I'll triple check again.
Will running the car off of just the alternator for-sure fry it if it is under-charging? Or will that not have any detrimental effect?
So, just the general harness for the rear lights/hatch? The symptoms show up with the lights-off AND with the hazards going.
Also, Bosch or Denso Reman?
Thanks!
Greg
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30 minutes ago, ronemus said:
Your battery voltage at idle should be ~14V, so you either have something demanding so much current that the alternator can't keep up at idle or a bad alternator. It could also be a connection issue - try removing and re-seating the relevant connectors, and loosen then re-tighten the ground connections, and be on the lookout for corrosion,
Thanks! I'll start looking. I have put "upgraded" grounding wires in and filed-off paint from the usual body-mounts (e.g. small ground off of battery, transmission-to-body-ground). The alternator is old, and has lived in the Las Vegas heat without a garage for the past two years. I'll check around. Thank you!
Greg
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So, I've recently come into a problem. I've noticed an intermittent whirring/whistling noise coming from the center/center-bottom of the dash. Almost sounds as if there's a cd in a disc-player rotating at a high speed. I don't have a cd-player, and I've also removed the fuse from the radio, and the noise still comes. Anyway, when the noise comes on, it follows the RPMs of the motor. If I depress the accelerator, the noise gets louder. While idling (and noise present), if I press on the brake pedal the lights pretty much completely cut out, and the motor almost dies. In the videos you can hear the noise, and see the idle responses. It frequency of brake-taps is consistent with the motor behavior. ALSO, if I turn on the hazard lights, the idling bobbing/cutting with the lights cutting follows the frequency of the hazards and/or turn signals. When the whirring goes away, the symptoms are gone. Do I all of a sudden have a really bad ground? All lights are functional; nothing out.
'98 OBW with 251/25D hybrid
Recent work (past 6 months):
New OEM MAF
New OEM TPS
New OEM ignition coil
New OEM plugs
New OEM wires
New OEM 5mt neutral switch
New OEM 5mt reverse light switch
New Fuel pump relay (symptoms were present before I went playing under the dash)
Done in the past two years:
fuel pump
fuel filter
Timing belt
New OEM Cam Gears
I'm pretty bad at electrical diagnostics, any suggestions/advice would help.
Battery has 12.5v just sitting. 12.8v while idling.
Thanks for your time folks,
Greg
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Thank you! I'll start assembly then.
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13 hours ago, sirtokesalot said:
mine is an automatic
Sorry, did I miss that?
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I recommend looking at doing the calculations: https://www.engineersedge.com/mechanics_machines/transmission-gear-ratio-calculator.htm
Also, your final drive gear (5th or 6th) will determine the RPMs that you might be traveling at, and consequently how much fuel you'll be consuming...
http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru Transmission Chart
I bought a 5mt from a JDM '05 LGT wagon, and swapped in the stub shafts and speedo gear for my '98 Outback. Splitting the case and removing/reinstalling everything isn't that bad, honestly. I've got 10 thumbs and I didn't think it was too bad. There are a bunch of write-ups on splitting the case...
Once it's open, the ring/pinion gear are easily accessed, and removable...
hope any of this helps!
Greg
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I finally pulled the short block (SOA478H600R1) that I purchased a couple months ago out of the box and put onto a stand. Changed out the 7mm oil pump for a 9mm that I had (I don't think I'll need a 10mm as I'm a conservative driver, and this is just for a DD project). Looking at the pistons, they're labeled as 255 SH. Is this going to be a problem mounting with DOHC heads? When I was talking with a subaru parts tech over the phone I had specified that I wanted an EJ251 or EJ253 short block for '03-'05, and they had given me the part number. I had then talked with a different Parts Tech, and they confirmed that that part number was for what I had specified. Are the pistons the same? I thought the 255s were used with the AVL systems, and can't work with pre-AVLS. . Should I be looking for new pistons now?
The current motor in my car is an EJ from a 2001 Impreza, with DOHC heads. I wanted to recreate the build as it is generally a nice and powerful (enough) motor.
Also, I bought a brand new subaru water pump because I thought the stock one that came on the block was supposed to be forward facing.... What showed up is identical to the spare I bought. They are identical, right?
Thanks all,
Greg
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23 hours ago, idosubaru said:
Yes. It's easy. I've done it tons of times.
Oil - doesn't matter. Let me explain...
If you unbolted A/C lines on a brand new Subaru, removed the compressor, then reinstalled it again 4 minutes later - would you be worried about "oil" in the compressor?
Of course not - it's got whatever oil in it that is distributed throughout the system and will retain that when removed from the vehicle. Just like a part at a local yard. A reasonable mechanic or yard knows not to dump the oil out or expose the orifices to debris...they're often stuffed with plastic caps or something to prevent debris/humidity/oil escape when I get one if it's not removed directly from the car.
I'm somewhat overstating the illustration...but not by much - maybe time and conditions warrant adding some oil, and it is a good idea. Sure go ahead and do that - no it's not precise. You'd have to try really hard to get it wrong, you don't sound like that type.
Imagine adding up all the internal surface area of the compressor guts, air lines, evaporator, drier, etc.....there's gobs of square inches of surface area. Get it close. If you think you should add 1 unit of oil....and you add 2....it won't matter - it'll be distributed over such a large surface area that the small amounts we are talking about are inconsequential. If you didn't add any then all of the cumulative oil in the system will over time just redistribute itself into a slightly thinner layer covering the innards of your compressor (which has it's own residual oil already in it - they didn't dump cleaner down the thing!).
You can never known how much oil to add so it's always somewhat of guess. How many times has your A/C been worked on from brand new, how much oil has been lost due to depressing the valve for charging or testing over the years, has any of the oil "degraded", how many parts have been replaced...same goes with the "new" compressor -you can't cut it open and see how much residual oil and film is extant in the compressor. so it's one big huge guess.
Also there's no need to pull a vaccuum. Remove your compressor, bolt the new one in place. Very little air got into the system and what little humidity was in the "new" compressor will get absorbed by the drier. There's basically zero chance of all the cataclysmic nonsense people like to rave about online...it's crazy talk and practically speaking never happens to subarus unless you're a hack. Add 18-22 ounces - whatever yours calls for and you're done. If you live around exceptional humidity/heat or are transporting frozen goods in the cabin then pull that vacuum and get it perfect.
Yes - lots of shops//mechanics/DIY/HVAC people would not say anything close to what I just said....but practically and physically thats' what's happening. Sure - don't be dumb. Don't buy an unknown cheap compressor from some guy who had to unburry from the back yard garden pile and clean the bugs out of the holes - and dont' randomly guess on how much oil to add. Looks it up and make a very rough educated guess - you'll be right. By your sense of talking about this and detail and interest in diagnosing this - you sound like you know what you're doing and not about to just guess/hack/and roll dice here.
So yeah - it's easy. I've done it a ton of times. I've bolted on ancient Subaru compressors older than yours, some I've added oil, some I haven't....same result every time. They work and never need replaced again. But compressors here are cheap and easy to come by and I often have them on hand...so I get you that you might want to diagnose it more first and make sure it's the compressor if they're harder to come by there.
Alright, thank you. What do you think about trying to find a used compressor over a remanufactured over brand new? I was looking to call a couple yards up in the northern latitudes, hoping even with higher mileage it might have seen less usage because of the fewer hot days... Whereas buying something used down here in the desert, and I'd guess it's probably close to toast?
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15 hours ago, nvu said:
Likely compressor, but also other things to check. Let's assume the system is somehow overcharging and causing enough back pressure to seize the compressor. It could also be blockage or a kink in the lines. Let off some gas a bit at a time and see if things improve. Since the worst case is replacing the compressor anyways.
And if you do end up taking it apart, consider taking time to remove the expansion valve and look at the oil that comes out of the evap core. Dark and black is not the best, but normal wear and tear. Poke something in the lines like a pipe cleaner or qtip, if there's clumpy stuff or sludge, that's what's causing the clogs. Usually replacing the entire evap core is less hassle than flushing.
Get a box of those assorted green hbnr orings beforehand.
Thank you. How do I capture the system gasses without venting to the atmosphere? How much would a shop charge me to just take a little bit out?
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1 hour ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:
maybe I haven't kept up very well but, could this be the crank pulley? Symptoms aren't a great match - could make the steering feel heavy while slipping.....?
Crank pulley is on tight. This only happens when i've turned the A/C on.
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Video of the clutch. The part that the belt rotates on spins freely.
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3 hours ago, idosubaru said:
Strange. If you take the belt off does the pulley spin freely?
Can you turn the compressor itself over and see if it feels suspicious? Manually engage the clutch or grab the inner part of the compressor If you have a other Subaru available compare it to that. They all feel the same in terms of order of magnitude. If it’s impacting your engine that bad then it doesn’t seem like you’re chasing a minor issue .
There’s internal compressor components, a bearing, and clutch. And the refrigerant pressures.
Hate to guess but what else besides the compressor could it even be?
So if it's the compressor, I could grab a used one from car-part, or a local yard? What about replacing oil? I'm guessing the compressors will be empty when I get them from the yard or from car-part. isn't there an intricate measuring protocol necessary?
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On 6/21/2021 at 8:26 PM, nvu said:
I have a 98 OBS, it's the impreza version 2.5l sohc slightly higher compression frankenmotor, but likely same ac system. The initial kick in sometimes makes a squeak noise, but engine doesn't even flinch in power. Doubt it's the flywheel. If you're in gear already all the weight of the drivetrain plus pulling the vehicle is a bit bigger than just a 10lb lighter flywheel.
It's probably more electrical and sensors than physical. If you want to make sure, just loosen the ac belt so it lightly grips the pulley. Next time the ac kicks in if it really is the pump seizing up, the belt would make slipping noises and you'd lose less power. Doubt it though, compressor pumps either work or make horrible noises before seizing up.
I'm just guessing at this point, I don't know either, but could an overcharged system do this? Also if the clutch is somehow shorted out, would the coils pull so much amps it makes the electrics go haywire?
Hi, I loosened the belt, and it definitely was chirping/squealing at me, but the A/C was still blowing cold air with less drag. I tightened it just a touch to stop the squealing, and the dragging feeling is back.
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On 6/23/2021 at 11:49 AM, 1 Lucky Texan said:
is there a lot of red stain/debris on the hood above and parts near the compressor? that could indicate the clutch slipping.
None that I can see.
Outback is possessed.
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Hi all, sorry for just letting this topic drift into nothing.
I tracked down some bad light harnesses in the rear hatch and tail lights. I will be cleaning/replacing a bunch back there, and probably moving to LEDs to reduce global load as well.
Thanks for all of your help!
Greg