mikaleda

Well Napa brand oil is valvoline IIRC so maybe it will work better. It is about a $1 a quart more than the federated oili was buying. I did get like 25 cents of a quart with my AAA discount though which would be another plus of this oil works good.

This is getting irritating, recently my oil consumption has shot way up. At 2000, miles I have gone through almost 3 quarts of oil and the oil is already dark. Obviously the oil on using is not of the quality I need for my usage. I'm going to try Napa's cheap oil, which I beleive is made by valvoline and see what happens. I also have been changing my oil at 2000 miles lately to clean out my HLAs wich seems to have worked.

This has seemed to work well on my car. I started changing my oil as soon as it started to darken About (2000 mi). I haven't heard a tick once and its been being started in -10 degree morning and it still sounded good an smooth right of the bat. Now I just need to figure out my oil consumption issue which seems to be getting worse.

My experience with subarus obd1 systems are that people like to tape the connecters in very inaccessible locations. Once they are cut loose of the tape holding them on place they are quite easy to connect.

Hell I just got one for free the other day because the front strut sprindgs were broken and the ej25d that was in it was tost (threw a TB) easy enough things to fix. A few hours and a couple hundred bucks later and its back on the road again.

That's why I said to rotate the tires, it will tell you if its tire related or not. And warped brakes can cause vibration at high speed, bit you would still feel it in the wheel when braking so next step is to verify rims and tires. Also tire technicians don't always catch everything so we can still safely assume its possible its tire related

Could be warped rotors or a bent rim. Try rotating your tires and see if it changes.

I suggest you search head gasket and read up on how these things blow gaskets.

Make sure that your fans are turning on and off. Unfortunately its very possible its a head gasket, that's what it sounds like. When it starts overheating pop the coolant resiviour and see if you see bubbles coming up. If there are bubbles you have a bad head gasket.

Makes sense, the second option is much easier and just as effective anyway.

Its amazing what a new set of kybs will do for handling. Its a world of difference.

Always use the gaskets made for the heads your using.

Swapping the engine from a 90stick into a 99 auto is fairly straight forward. Your exhaust bolts right up. If you don't want a check engine light you want an egr intake, but any intake from 95-98 2.2 will work. Should plug right in no reason to swap the intake harness unless the harness on the new intake is damaged for some reason. Once you have the egr intake on you'll either have drill and tap a hole in the head for the egr pipe or do wt-dashs fix thats in here somewhere. He basically uses a couple brass adapters to hook up a 1/2 inch hose between the egr and the IAC inlet. I did this in my ej22 swap on my 99 outback and it works great.

A good intake cleaning may not be a bad idea either.

The emergency spare should work, but male sure its the same size, hopefully you have the stock size tire that that spare was ment to replace.

Got to remove the cam sprockets to pull the plastic timing belt rear cover so you can resurface the heads. use the old timing belt to hold the sproket while you breaking the bolt loose. An impact makes it much easier but can be done by hand they are usually on there hard though.

Knock sensor controls timing slightly to compensate for low octane "knock" it doesn't affect running much. The only symptoms I've heard of a bad knock sensor causing is a slight decrease in fuel milage and maybe slightly less performance.

Replace your MAF sensor get one from a low milage car at the junk yard then reset your codes and see what comes back. Knock sensors are easy to replace they are one wire and one bolt. Its under the intake on the drivers side rear of the block. The oxygen sensor code is more than likely caused by the failing MAF o would replace the MAF first and reset the codes and see what happens.

I actually made a power probe with a test light and some switches, it cost me about $5 to make since I was able to repurposed most of the parts. I'll see if I can post a couple picks and a description. A power probe is a very handy tool, even my homemade one is very handy

It sounds like you are finding your problems. I would say from the way you explain it that it very well could be a wheel bearing. Bearings on these cars can be tricky to diagnose. First try jacking the wheel up off the ground and see if there is any side to side play or noise when you spin it. If not then driving it for a while and feeling of your hub is getting hot or not will tell you as well.

That's not good, that's a sign of being overheated change that fluid imediatly

proper way to check your ecu codes here http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

you have torque bind do more research. if its an AT put your fwd fuse in. make sure your tires are matching and equally inflated

If you do some searching on here I believe there is a thread on how to manually check duty c and clutch pack operation

It's fairly common for these older cars to have some delay in the awd engament. If you get a little front wheel slip before the rear engages that's normal, but if your front wheels slip continuously then there is a problem. More than likely it will be duty c or the clutch packs are shot in the center diff, those are the two most common problems. It wouldnt be a bad idea to get it up off the ground first and make sure that all the ujoints, CV axels. And hubs are connected tight and working properly, and they more than likely will be since rear end components usually go to around 300k miles depending on how hard its been used.