mikaleda

subaru autos don't free wheel under deceleration they actually slow you down so removing the power to the rear drive shaft will help with deceleration also

thanks for the info. i am accustomed to older cars i was not aware of this.

i agree. i will occasionally use them if the price is substantially better but for the most part its worth spending a little more to not have to deal with the mess ups

well do what you think you have to i am just trying to help. i have had this prob before and i put the fuse in and was able to drive it around for quite awhile.

the cap radiator and thermostat have all been replaced but that is good info for the future and i am also having circulation problems as i said earlier right before i overheat my heater blows cold

the reason for the fuse i was telling you about is only on autos it shuts off the rear pump so that in case of rear seal problems you can put this fuse in and make it home. i have two awd drives at my house same year make and model one stick and one auto the stick does not have a fwd drive fuse because there is no pump to shut off. and actually you could probably put this fuse in and leave the rear drive line in and drive it if you have it.

okay then it is probably a u joint i am sorry about the confusion. my awd had a place where you can put it in to fwd mode with a fuse if you have this then you could remove drive shaft and drive it safely.

now i'm confused is it front wheel drive of rear wheel drive? if it is fwd it would be cvs if it is rear wheel drive it is probably carrier or u joint.

if the rpms stay the same its not your clutch

when i say two wheel drive i mean rear wheel drive not front wheel drive. sorry for the confusion my bad

nice car! those brats are good little subies.

i know the driveshaft is what we are talking about. the front and rear axels that drive the tires are cvs and they don't grind when they start to go out they click when you are turning. the front comes out of the tranny no u joints

blown head gasket. when running i have bubbles in the radiator small and frequent.

? that doesn't make sense it has to have u joints whether or not it was two or four wheel drive. i have an awd it has u joints.

wow good to know i would probably do the same thing.

probably not unless it is four wheel drive or awd.

its kinda like you have to deal with their mess ups so you can get the better price:-p

#1 i have worked on aluminum engines you still have to re torque them #2 being horizontal shouldn't make any differance #3 the engines you are talking about that have a cast iron block and aluminum heads didn't last long because of problems with the heads cracking for the exact reason you said because the two metals react differently to heat.

exactly! no mater what the engine is made of the gaskets sometimes compress.

sounds like a carrier bearing. if this has been going on for long you will need u-joints also

i was thinking of trying what gd and ivans said and put 120 psi in each cylinder at tdc and look for bubbles in the radiator. i have the tools to do this myself

i would defiantly contact moog

i'll take you'r word for it, i just don't see what makes these engines differ from any other engine i have worked on, all the way from a '67 chevy to a 98 toyota it has been the same. on a different note though i have to say i have never done a head gasket on one of these engines so i would not know. i will be interested in the out come though because i am going to be doing a hg on my 90 soon and it would be nice to know this info. i know i thought i had my coolant prob fixed untill 300 miles later and it started happening again

well to anyone still looking at this thread around 300 miles after i changed the radiator i decided to take my car for a road trip. it over heated 60 miles from home in the exact same place as before and it is acting exactly like it was before. just before i over heat my heater quits working. i have a new radiator and thermostat so it is probably the head gasket i am going to test it asap but it is going to get parked for now. man this is really frustrating it is an oem thermostat.

it is still part of the procedure there is a reason for it.