mikaleda

resurrecting this thread again to ask one more question. it looks like i found a nice shop to do my head gasket in. i am going yo pull the engine like gd said. does anyone have any tips tricks to pulling an ej22? i am new to this i have never pulled an engine from a car yet and i just want to make sure i am doing it right when i get to it. hopefully everything will work out because if it does i just might end up with a rebuilt engine when i am done

this is my 1980 gl 1600 4wd this car only has 130k on it but it needs some work i have already rewired it for the most part, did a tune up, put a c.v in it, rebuilt the oil pump, and am in the process of doing brakes. before i am going to be anywhere close to done with this thing i will have to replace radiator, flush the system, put new struts and shocks, manuel choke and it will be my daily driver until i get my legacy going again.

i worked on an 85 brat with this problem it turned out i was putting the coolant in to fast. fill up your radiator slowly and also know how much your system holds that will help alot.

that looks almost exactly like my eighty its even the same color!:cool: but alot of things are wrong with mine

i found my rev sensor, i thought it was a buzzer or something at first. does anyone know what one of these costs? i would like to put back to stock if cheap enough, if not i'm not going to bother with it it works just fine like it is and at least its running through a fuse. i have to buy struts, brakes, caliper, Manuel choke, and a radiator yet so this is not at the top of my priorities. oh ya i looked up the fuel pump relay on rockauto.com and the closest thing they have is a electronic fuel pump inertia switch. it looks nothing like what i am looking at on my car and they want 80 bucks for it if that is what a rev sensor is going to cost me i like it just fine the way it is.

my fuel pump is running through the fusible link and a fuse in the fuse box so i'm not to worried about having problems with safety believe me its better than it was (it was running directly off of the positive battery terminal with no fuse at all and running through the fire wall with no grommet). and once i replaced the fuse that blew it ran just fine i think the problems all came down to the passing light relay when i plugged that in everything started messing up. i will do a search for the rev sensor that you mentioned for future reference. there is no relays above the hood latch i looked none to be seen

yes there is a relay i have found it, it was unplugged when i found it. i need to look into it some more when i plugged in the relay i started my car (since i had been messing with the lights for awhile) and when i did it ran fine for a minuet but then my tach and volt meter started acting wierd and my car started running funny. i unplugged the relay and put in a new fuse now it runs good. i need to figure out why that happened before i mess with that relay anymore.

this style ignition is different than any i've seen before there is a a box on top of the coil and one next to it. the one next to it looks like the voltage regulator and the one on top has something to do with the ignition modulation i think is what it says?

thanks, and i am not worried about fixing it right off the bat. i just put a c.v. in and am having problems with brakes, thinking of upgrading them so i will be busy for a while anyway.

cool! i understand perfectly what it is talking about thanks for the info much appreciated

for some reason i can't delete but oh well my brakes are shot EDIT i decided since i have to replace one of my calipers that i want to do some brake upgrading. what i want to do is change out the the solid rotors for the newer cooling fin style. i already have the rotors and hangers, what i want to know is can i use the eighty style calipers or do i need to buy two new calipers? and if i do what is the years that used the cooling fin style rotors. i looked on rockauto.com and the calipers for the 85 gl were considerably cheaper than the ones for my eighty. any advice would be a appreciated thanks in advance.

phew!! it was just a blown fuse now its running fine. but what i don't get is why did my car keep running even though i shut it off? it wasn't dieseling because it was cold. the fuse that blew was a ignition gauge fuel fuse. that is the fuse i spliced my fuel pump power from and yes i did it properly i used a beldin wire splicer. it is not shorting out i checked that first.

this is really weird i started up my car an 80 gl 1600 4wd and it was running good and everything was working fine. then all of a sudden my tach starts acting funny the engine is at an idle and its reading 5k so i went to rev it up and it started running really rough. i went to shut it off but the engine kept running. it finally died when it ran out of fuel so i took the negative battery terminal off and thought it might reset it. now it will start up for a second and die and the volt meter won't show anything untill you start the car. what the heck is going on? :confused: i would appreciate any response especially a quick one please and thank you. i have to get this car going today

130k on my 80 gl 4wd 1600 MT, and 210k on my 90 legacy MT. my moms 90 legacy AT just hit 312k just the other day it had a new engine about 10k ago, just had to throw one in with high mileage. P.S. these cars are still on the road, except my legacy for the moment (blown head gasket)

ok here is some more pic they may not be the best my camera died and i had to use my phone on the last three light light wiring harness wiring harness servo motor that is the best i can do for now. i may be putting in a new radiator soon so if i do i will get some better pics.

cool those are good things to look into. the wiring harness that comes out of this light has six wires, i tried to flip the light open and it wouldn't move. the switch under the dash had a simple three wire connection with a negative for a light that makes me think there is a relay somewhere. i also unplugged the wiring harness that runs to this light i hooked a ground to the black wire and since the rest were different i hooked a positive to the rest, all but one did nothing at all no spark no draw. the one that did do something just sparked like it had a draw (i checked the fuse afterward). when i was hooking power directly to the motor that flips up the lid and the light, nothing happened. i will try and get some pics of the working parts of the light like the servo motor and light. and yes i have tried resetting by removing negative terminal nothing happened. and here is the info you wanted A2LABS yes the switch has three wires two positives one hot one not and a ground hooked to a light that comes on when the switch has power. the harness coming off of the light has six wires (i will get some pics of that too). i will also look for the relay under the dash and see what i can find.

i have a 1980 subaru gl with the passing light in the middle of the grill under the subaru emblem. i traced the wires coming out of the light every thing is plugged in but the light doesn't work. i tried messing with the switch the other day and part of it fell out of the dash. so i took the wires and hooked them together and checked still nothing. i have checked there is power going to the switch. what i want to know is does anyone know what could be causing it to malfunction? I'm not in any hurry to fix this just want to make it work.

i would drain the oil and run some atf through your system (just idling not under load) that will clean the gunk out of your oiling system. then replace oil and see if that helps. just a thought but worth a try

if you leave the ball joint in the knuckle you can beat on the side of the lower control arm and if your lucky it will come out i have done this to get good used ones out before.

it's hard to go wrong with relays i once ran a 30 amp fan with a 20 amp relay and it worked fine i never had a problem. relays can take some major abuse

i cant find cartridges so i will take some good educated guesses on my struts out of the junker. i kind of doubt they could be worse than mine right now because mine are so bad my wheels tilt out when im parked.

rockauto.com wants $65 a piece for front struts for my gl. i'm not going to spend that much on it i guess i will just have to do some educated guessing.

cool i will look into that i just don't want to spend a whole lot of money on this rig really. i am trying to save up enough money to buy the parts i need to do my head gasket on my legacy and this car keeps eating up my money:popcorn:

this may sound dumb, but i am new to struts. my 1980 gl needs front struts really bad. i want to get some out of a junker but, i don't know if they will be any better than what i have. is there anyway way to tell if the struts i am getting out of the junker are any good?

it sounds like a bad connection under the dash, possibly a ground.