mikaleda

i have a problem with my 80 gl, some of my dash lights stay on that shouldn't. they are my battery light near my volt meter, my park brake light, and my stop lamp lights. it has been like this since i bought the car and the original owner said when they were hooking up the fuel pump they shorted something out, they thought that might have been what caused this. i don't see how it could have because when i first got this car the fuel pump was running off of a toggle switch that was connected directly to the battery (which i have since fixed). what i would like to know is where is a likely place to look for the problem. i have checked, my alternator is working fine, so are my brake lights, it has a new battery and battery clamps, and running with no loads it sits at 14 volts steady

use the spray seafoam through the throttle body just read instructions and remember to use it on a cold engine

no prob. and if you are having problems with your coil that could be why you are having problems with fuel pump relay. the relay has a safety feature so when you don't have spark you don't have fuel, just fyi

drivers side kick panel behind the fuse box above the hood latch.

i used my old mounts and they worked just fine.

no stop leak, and i wouldn't take it to a shop either. radiator repair is easy all you have to do is solder the hole up. i have done this many times no big deal all it takes is a propane torch, some solder, and flux.

i would get rid of the egr, other than that it looks like your basic connections are fine and that is all you really need with a weber i have been working on a car with a weber swap and they only have charcoal canister, spark advance, and brake booster hooked up and it works fine

you know now that i think about it i just put kyb gr2's on my gl and it has stopped hitting my steering linkage so bad. that might be one thing to consider too worn struts or a heavier engine could be part of the problem also when i bought my axel i brought my old one in and matched it up and the people at the parts store were surprised at the difference

air suction valve is what your thinking of i think. someone on the board told me to put quarters in mine and it worked great! easier than trying to weld it up. all you have to do is unscrew the pipe put a quarter in and screw the pipe back in.

i would start by unpluging the connector you mentioned and see what happens also you can test your coil with a multi meter . i can't remember how right off the top of my head but i'm sure someone will chime in that knows more than me lol could also have something to do with alternator i had smiler problems in a legacy once

you definitely want your charcoal canister, i have heard of people replacing them with a fuel filter but i don't see the point they rarely ever fail.

yep these cars are pretty tough i would have hit the deer to

i have used them they totaly messed up my order for strut mounts but they took them back even after i did some modding to them

these cars seem to hit deer alot i have two 90's and they have both hit deer before i got them

i just went through simaler problems with my legacy, thats why i know a little about them

glad to here your problem is better. i would throw a torque wrench on that bolt and try torquing to specs and see if that makes any differance with the unstable idle

if your pump is not leaking than its not your pump. i would say it is most likely blockage in the block, try some radiator flush worth a try also there are two different kinds one is made for use when over heating get that one. good luck over heating problems on subies suck. i doubt it is head gaskets you would get no circulation at all if that were the case

good job so far looks like you have put alot of work into that brat it ought to be a good one when you'r done. i wish i had the chance to do that when i was your age, its lucky you have a nice size shop to work in. i've changed drivelines in halfton trucks in the middle of the winter in the snow before, that really sucks because your sockets freeze to your ratchet (and your hands to) . lol its nice when you can pull your car into a shop and work on it. and be somewhat warm in the winter also i like your idea of putting a rubberized coating in the back, good idea.

heli-coils are great i had to do this on a Toyota once it worked great a '79 wagon with only 56k? pics please!

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my new empi axle has the same problem but not so bad as to worry me i noticed that the new axles are larger where they go into the transmission. mine is a stock 80 gl 1600 4wd for some reason it wore a little groove on the boot and stopped so i am just going to drive it for now.

yep they fit perfect but just so you know when i ordered the mounting kits from rock auto they were in worse shape than my old mounts were and they didn't fit anyway so be careful if you are buying new mounts and bearings.

then it is probably clogged in the block some where, or your water pump is starting to fail but i doubt it.

cool calculators thanks :cool:

tps is around ten bucks at junkyard last time i was there, don't go to auto parts store an oem replacement tps is around $300. i put a tps on one of my 90's out of the junk yard and it worked just fine. also before you put a tps in are you getting any codes? you can check them yourself on a 90 without a scan tool its obd1.