a2labs

I have some questions! Is this an exclusive meet or is it a come one, come all type thing? It seems by the last few posts we need to register somewhere. Where is that? Also curious if there's an entrance fee or anything like that! I'd really like to be there if that's possible! EDIT: Nevermind, I found the thread in the meet 'n greet section.

Nah soobiefreak, I don't think you're wasting your money, I was just curious if you broke or bent a valve and that's why you were replacing them. Having said that, if there's nothing wrong with the valves and the guides aren't wearing abnormally, and if you aren't going for some crazy 700hp supercharged turbo build, you can probably get away with cleaning them and reusing them. Might get a micrometer on them to make sure they're within spec still. Good luck!

I'll try to take some pics/notes of my setup when I weld my new manifolds on tomorrow. I don't think you need any vacuum/vents at all tho. Go back far enough engine wise and there's none. Not talking about Subaru's specifically just engines in general. Points distributor has centrifugal advance, mechanical linkage to control the heater position, usually on/off if there was heat, tank vented thru the cap or not at all. I don't know maybe I'm dreaming all this up. I've been around plenty of old engines and I swear there are no vacuum lines that are critical.

60 euros for a d/r 4wd is a great score, congrats!

In my ea82 wagon, the only vacuum related things I have hooked up are: -vacuum advance on distributor -vacuum line to heater controls -charcoal canister to direct fumes from the tank into the intake Pretty sure that's it. The rest of it is emissions crap. One of the first things I did when I got this car was one-by-one eliminate any vacuum line that wasn't critical. It sure made a hell of a difference in the way it runs.

Sounds like a CV to me but the first thing I'd do is jack up that corner and check for play in shock mounts, ball joints, etc. Might as well check for play in the CV too. You'd think a shop would notice something like that while it was on the lift, I don't know, never heard of a tranny doing something like that on left turns only. I was just saying in another post how a few months ago I went thru 3 CV's before finding one that didn't click. Parts quality these days is terrible in my opinion. The axle I ended up with was a reman where the others were supposedly "new". Just my 2 cents. Good luck!

Yeah it's common in my experience, I get wrong and bad parts so often that it's a running joke whenever I go to fix someone's car... They ask how long it will take and I say "depends on how many trips it takes to get the right part" My recent experience has been better with remans that with new parts. Changing an axle in my '85 wagon a few months ago, went thru three axles before I found one that didn't click. Send em back quick before it's too late. By the way, why are you buying new valves? Just curious. Good luck!

I used to hear of this happening when I was an unlock technician, idiots jamming slimjims down inside a door not knowing what they're doing... but that's not how you unlock a car with frameless windows, you wedge the window out and go thru that gap to the lock button. Definitely some bound up linkage or something like that. I suppose it could be a frozen lock cylinder too. How often do you use the key in that door? Should be real easy to find after you get the door panel off. Good luck!

At first I thought those were some kind of crazy horn tweeter for a stereo, because I build my own amps and speakers etc lol. I was like "Never knew hella made horn tweeters..." Then I realized horns.... beep beep get-out-of-my-way type horns, doh! Gratz on one year, hope there's many more to come!

What year and model is your soob? I can only speak for the old ones. On older cars in general, there's a switch in the buckle, two wires that run down under the carpet under the seat, there's a connector there, I'd check that first... If it's got automatic seatbelts that slide along the top of the window, that might be a little more difficult to check... I'd pull the bulb in the instrument cluster, but I'm a cheapskate... and also a fan of common sense... my thinking is do you really need a light to remind you to buckle up... like you're not going to notice a big double strap across your body? just my 2 cents tho.

-checks email and messages on USMB before 2nd cup of coffee- -reads 987687's post- -twitches- -runs out to car half naked to check- Yep it's a carbed ea82... I didn't think I could forget something that simple but hey we're all human right... I'd feel really stupid if I'd wasted everyone's time with the wrong information! UPDATE: In a way I sort of did, sorry >< read on... I got lucky today and found 2 Loyales and an '82 GLF, at the Knoxville TN pull-a-part. Never seen a GLF before in person, what a nice looking car that is. Of course all the cats were cut off as we expected, but I pulled what was left of the manifold off the GLF and one Loyale, bolt pattern's the same between the two, both 1.8's, so I'm pretty sure I have what I need to fix my car, yay. 4 single manifolds that are long enough to be welded easily and 4 good gaskets for $7.40, can't beat that. I was particularly impressed with the gaskets from the GLF, they appear to be stock and made of solid metal. Amazing to me that any gasket from a 30 year old car would appear to be reusable. Now these manifolds I got today look nothing like what's on my car, so I'm pretty sure a previous owner had a custom exhaust put on it. And a pretty bad one in my opinion. This is my fault for not taking pictures when I stated my problem originally, I realize now that if I had done that it would have prevented a lot of confusion I'm sure. I apologize for that. I'm going to a shop with a lift on Friday to weld it up, at that point I'll take pics of old and new, and some other things too. Then I'll see if I can find an image hosting service I can live with.

Alright guys like I said I appreciate any ideas and advice but I have to laugh since I've said some of this already I can weld, that's not an issue. I don't have a cat in my Y pipe, my cat is way back behind the crossmember. The 2 bolt flange isn't an issue, it's the flange that's bent on to the end of the exhaust pipe (manifold) at a 90 degree angle where it meets the head that's broken. Welding that to be strong enough and leaving enough room to allow for play in the 2 bolt flange for everything to line up right would be tricky at best, I'd say. This .080 flange is only about an eighth or quarter inch wide. From the top down it goes: head, manifold gasket, flange bent on to the end of the pipe, 2 bolt thick flange that squeezes all of that together. I'm on a budget. While I know there are competent exhaust shops that can make a custom exhaust that might work just fine, I can't afford that. I'm a do it yourselfer. That's why I'm looking around in junkyards (eliminated that possibility today) and pull-a-part yards... (will check on that option tomorrow) and asking about interchange possibilities from first gen impreza's and legacy's, (which there are plenty of close to me) and 987687 has informed me that isn't an option. I did ask about aftermarket (bolt-on) exhaust, (which I would install myself) because I'm seeing some kits for around $100. That's closer to my price range but still more than I want to pay just to fix one little tiny problem. A 4cyl exhaust manifold is $19 at a pull-a-part yard, how can you beat that? If I needed a whole new exhaust it would be different of course. So my main question has been answered. Thank you 987687. Tomorrow or at most by the end of the week we'll find out if a stock part can be reasonably obtained. Then I'll know whether or not I'm going to be deaf by the time I reach Seattle. :-p Again, I appreciate all your feedback, I tried to give as much detail as possible in my original post, and I probably should have provided pictures of my problem, that's my bad and I apologize. I'm still looking for a free image hosting site that doesn't have a time limit where they remove your pictures if you don't sign in for a while.

Well I spent the entire day visiting all the junkyards in my area, only one had a car that would have worked but the entire exhaust was gone... breaks my heart, the body was a lot nicer than mine. 987687, my cat is behind the crossmember a few feet behind the Y. The Y on my car is just two pipes welded together in a 90 degree intersection. And I guess I don't need an o2 bung, as it's a non feedback carb and non EFI? The cat has an o2 bung with a bolt in it, but I've never noticed any wires for an o2 sensor and it seems to run fine. I don't know, this is my first soob so maybe someone was in there doing modifications before I got it? Again it's a 1985 ea82 carbed GL wagon. Date of mfg is actually 10/84 but it's got the 85 body, so I guess it was one of the first 85 year models made. A buddy of mine has a 1984 GL sedan with an ohv 1.8 in it, I'm going to check it tomorrow to see if the manifolds are still good, although he parked it many years ago due to it needing an entire exhaust. Failing that, I'll be taking a 4 hour drive to the nearest pull-a-part yard that has soobs that match mine. At this point I'd even consider an aftermarket "performance" exhaust, anyone know of any that include the manifold pipes?

The great thing about old cars without serpentine belts is, all v-belts are pretty much the same, some are longer, shorter, some are wider, narrower. Any competent auto parts store will be able to provide you with a correct belt, if you say you need one an inch longer, or two, three, whatever, till you find one that fits. Then just make a note of which belt fits in your owners or repair manual and you're good to go. It's just a belt! And you definitely should not ever try to stretch a belt with a prybar. I went thru this recently while doing a tune-up on a DR string trimmer. Good luck! :cool:

Wow... and I thought I had bad luck! If the Hitachi will work, and it's easier and cheaper to get, why not use it? Both were made in Japan, at $100, even if it lasts half as long as the Denso, seems like a good deal to me. My 1985 ea82 GL wagon has Hitachi carb and distributor (original) with 169k miles. I understand wanting to keep it original, this is just my opinion. Good luck!

The problem is the 90 degree flange that's bent in to the top of the pipe where it mates to the head, that flange is broken off, so there's no way the thick flange that the bolts go through can hold the pipe against the head. Kinda hard to explain, sorry. And I didn't mean single port heads, I meant manifolds, doh. Been working too much and staying up too late. Thanks for the kind wishes, I'm going to need them!

I'm in southwest Virginia. The pull-a-part yards I normally go to in North Carolina are listing a few first gen legacy's and impreza's, but the way those places work, they don't keep a list of individual parts, so I'd have to go there and see. I'm going to check the local places tomorrow around here. Most junkyards around here are just a waiting area for the crusher since steel has gone up so much lately. I see you're in Washington tractor pole. If I can find some single port heads, should I bring them with me to Seattle?

Curious if anything other than a Loyale, GL, or Brat Manifold will bolt up to an EA82, such as one off of a first gen Impreza or Legacy single port head. I only need one side. What's happened is the 90 degree flange bent on to the end of the exhaust pipe where it meets the head has broken off (not the thick flange that the bolts go through) on my 1985 GL, and now it sounds like a late model stock car. I tried to check interchange data using exhaust manifold gaskets as a reference, and it's not looking like anything else is the same size. I'm on a budget, and I'm getting ready to move across the country, I'd rather not be deaf when I get there, not to mention the fact that all the noise might attract a citation, which I can definitely do without. Just wondering if anyone has had this problem, and what routes they took to solve it. I can weld but I'm worried the pipe might be too thin. I was planning on going to a pull-a-part yard 1.5 hours away that's historically always had lots of old soobs, but wouldn't you know it, there's not a single one there now. Any advice/ideas are much appreciated. Thanks in advance! Edit: I swear, as soon as I get to Washington and find some work, I'm dropping an ej22 in this thing.

Ok, good info and pics mikaleda, thanks. The Toyota's from the 80's that I'm familiar with also used 6 wires at the headlight/motor side, so I'm 99% sure the wiring is the same. I'd even go so far as to say that most retractable headlight circuits are the same, the only differences being bells-and-whistles type stuff like a dedicated retract switch independent of the headlight switch, a retract indicator light, headlight washers wired into the up side of the retract circuit, etc. I'm really really busy with work and life in general right now, as I'm getting ready to move across the country in the next week or so, but I will dig thru my manuals and find a schematic to post. If anyone has a Haynes manual for this car, the schematic would be in there as well. Those old Haynes manuals were pretty decent, they sure don't make 'em like they used to! And again, any schematic from that vintage car has a very good chance of being the same. See if you can trace the wires by color back to where they come from. There might be 2 grounds, so see if you can locate any grounds to chassis and make sure they have nice clean connections. You should always verify grounds first. Often times an electrical problem is just a dirty ground. All the retract relays I've seen have been metal jobs under the hood, then again, never seen a soob with retracts up close.

Pretty sure it will go over 40mph. Every Japanese car that I've driven has a light clutch, by that I mean it's easy to push the pedal. It's definitely worth fixing in my opinion, but I love simple old cars. Assuming it has an ea81 pushrod ohv, that engine has a remarkable reputation for being indestructable, they supercharge and or turbo those engines and use them in ultralight airplanes. So far as the miss it might just need a tune up. Always good to replace plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. If it still misses after that chances are high that's it's an easy and affordable fix. Good luck and keep us posted.

Apologies if I'm being over simplistic or just plain dense, but every ea82 with a/c that I've seen has 2 fans, an extra fan dedicated to the a/c circuit, and the normal one that they all have. Just wondering how many fans you have and which one(s) are running, if for no other reason than to better understand it myself. Thanks and good luck!

Please forgive my ignorance, as I've never seen this passing light before, but I have seen the third headlight in the middle, is that the same thing? And is it solely operated by a switch on the dash? If it operates the same way as retractable headlights do, (as natext6 is saying) there are usually contacts built into the retractor motor that tells a very simple logic circuit what position the cover/headlight is in. Those contacts could be dirty or faulty. Please describe the switch with as much detail as possible, it would also be helpful to know how many wires are in the harness coming from the light and from the switch. I've fixed a lot of retractables on 80's Toyota's and I'd like to learn about this! EDIT: I checked some other threads here and the wiring is simpler than I thought: the switch should have three wires, a 12v supply IN, a switched 12v OUT to the light/cover unit, and a ground for the backlight in the switch. The same wiring configuration is used on a common lighted 3 prong 2 position switch sold at auto parts stores. The switched 12v out powers the passing light assembly, that one wire activates the light and raises the cover. The motor that raises the cover has a limiter switch in it that tells the motor to stop when it reaches the open position, and holds it open as long as there is 12v supply. But there has to be a dedicated 12v supply to the motor unit, so that when the switch on the dash is turned off, the motor closes the cover. Another limiter switch tells the motor when to stop, and it is effectively in standby mode at that point. I'd still like to know how many wires are in the motor/light side harness, I'd be happy to provide a diagram based on that. It could be done with as few 3 wires: ground, 12v constant, and 12v signal in from the switch on the dash. Some aftermarket driving lights include a standard 4 prong relay, you'd wire both them and the passing light the same way. Hope this helps! If I'm wrong on any of this, please correct me.

I have a rats nest of plugged and missing vacuum lines around my hitachi, but it seems to run fine. I test for vacuum leaks with a can of brake cleaner or carb cleaner, carefully and precisely spray the suspected area, wait and listen for changes in engine rpm. If the rpm goes up there's a leak. If all your vacuum/fuel tests don't solve the problem, might be a coil or igniter. I know the carb was replaced but stranger things have happened.

Mine only has three and is exactly like yours with the one terminal on the fourth hole. If everything works, everything is fine. Fusible links control major things, if there was a problem you'd definitely know it.

The fuel filter on my 1985 GL wagon ea82 carbed d/r 4wd is on a little shelf next to the frame just in front of the right rear axle, if I had to guess I'd say yours is there too. However, with the symptoms you describe, I'm sure the filter isn't the problem. But it is a small plastic filter, most likely cheap, and never hurts to replace it. In my experience, when a coil or igniter goes bad, it typically starts as a little tiny problem too small to notice and gradually gets worse. Often times coils will get worse as they get hotter, like when you're driving for 30 minutes or more, it will miss more and more, but not cut out completely and then run fine after that. So pretty sure neither of these is your problem. Intermittent electrical problems are some of the most frustrating and difficult to diagnose so far as problems go. Try to pay real close attention to any similarity so far as what's happening when the problem occurs, turning hard right, going up a hill, while shifting, etc. The good news is, when you finally find the source of the problem, it's usually very easy to fix. In my experience, 9 times out of 10 it's a bad connection. Don't give up and good luck! Let us know anything you discover.