zmarrott

getting them off rockauto. both gaskets were replaced. the rods that bent were from opposite sides of the engine too. one passenger rear rod amd the other drivers front rod. im pretty sure they bent cause i didnt set them to the lifters properly. i also didnt try to adjust any valves. i figured with no compression issues before hand, i wouldnt have to. what i get for assuming. anyone have a good guide for valve adjusting i can use? i did have a valve tap-ish noise prior to the head gasket blowing

where is the best place to buy pushrods from? 2 of mine got bent when i tried to start the car

so after reassembling the engine, when i got to start, the crank spins, but it seems to have no resistance from compressing cylinders and there is no fuel ignition. im very confused now. also how important is pushrod order? from whst i found online there is only 1 pushrod to buy so i would think order wouldnt matter

cool. any parts i should specifically inspect for damage while i have the engine apart?

the engine will be in the car for the repair unfortunately. its in a parking lot and i dont have access to a garage at the moment. are the pushrods held in by any bolts or something like that or are they just kind of floating between the lifters and rocker arms?

so i had a head gasket blow yesterday and im wondering if anyone has any tips regarding replacing them. ive done head gaskets before but on a inline 4 DOHC engine. but due to this being a pushrod engine, i want to know if theres any specific things i need to know to not cause any excess damage

after looking at it more, it apears to be the axels. i know they need to be replaced cuz the boots are destroyed, i just didnt realize they could mess with the steering that bad. ill replace them when im not broke anymore

just noticed today that my steering is starting to twitch to one side. its only while moving and only to the left. how fast it jerks is dependent on vehicle speed. my power steering is disconnected (belt not installed) so im kinda confused.

ill check the ignition switch tomorrow after the deal get back to me again. first off they told me my battery was toast. it still read 12.5v so i didnt think anything of it, but it doesnt surprise me considering the kid i bought the car from said he looked up on youtube how to restore car batteries. got the new battery to the dealer so just waiting on further info from them

the positive lead from the fusible links looks good. pushed the car down the road to the subaru dealer to have them do a wire diagnostic. waiting to hear back now

fusible links was my first thought as well, but from what i can tell they look good. i did have to replace one a few weeks ago, so i just made a little wire to clip on. and the fan and pump have power from a wire out of the original harness. and yes the ea81 with points is this one. for the noise from the flashers, it wouldnt bother me soo much if it wasnt soo loud. its definitly not the mechanical click that is normaly heard from them. its a constant loud buzz

so ive got a strange electrical failure thats come up in my mutt subaru. '88 GL body and wiring with unoriginal EA81 engine. ive noticed once or twice before that the radio lost all presets meaning constant power was interrupted and been slowly cleaning up the poor work that was done by whoever swapped the engine and just went for a drive and hang out for a few hours with my friend, and right as we're getting back we stop for a drink and when i try to start the car almost all electrical gives out. when the key is in the ACC position, i have power, but the overhead light is blinking to the beat of the door chime and as soon as the key is in RUN, all inside power cuts out and i cant crank. the radiator fan and fuel pump get power, but nothing else i can see. also when the hazards button is pressed while the key is in ACC, an awful buzzing sound comes from behind the driver kneeboard. i think from the ECM

its was the damn points. dug down into the distributor to find royally fucked up contact on it. ten miles away for a 5 dollar part.

for some reason i cant upload any pictures, so when i figure that out youll see some

had a friend call me and explain how all the parts of the distributor work, and it looks like points most definitely the problem. i was reading another thread about the distributors and soneone mentioned that the ea81 should be electronic instead of points? my car is an 88 GL with an unknown year of engine. half of the crap in the engine bay looks gery rigged to some extent. if most of the ea81 engines were electronic and mine has points, what car should i tell parts stores when im looking for engine parts

the miss is completely random. and yes im pretty sure its points. only wires going into the distributor are the main coil wire and the possitive terminal from the coil. its the hitachi distribitor that clips on instead of screws. the shaft play is only maybe a quarter to a half millimeter so i dont see that as being a problem. and as i expected, new plug wires did nothing. and i found one vac leak last night, just a t-joint in a hose that had one side open. plugged it and it sounded a bit better, but a minimal improvement overall. for the carb bolts, whats the torque? i cant find a book, and its a weber 2 barrel.

its points. and ill check the shaft in the morning. i went to put sea foam through it too, and also found that my choke had lost a snap ring, so it was stuck wide open. fixed that and put about a half can of sea foam in the gas, then fed the rest through the intake. seems to idle much better, but im pretty sure thats only due to the choke. still missing really badly. i have new plug wires coming in that i should be able to pick up tomorrow

ive got a really bad misfire that has developed and i cant figure out what is causing it. ive replaced coil, coil to distributor wire, plugs, rotor button and distributor cap. the plug wires look pretty new, and noone around me has them. also checked compression, and im getting 130-150. im at a loss as to why its missing so much

awesome. thanks for the input. found some 75w-90 at walmart. got my GL purrin' like a big angry kitten again lol

does anyone know what fluid goes in the 5 speed dual range 4wd manual transmission? its out of an 88 GL. i accidentally spilled most of the fluid while the transmission was disconnected.

wouldnt surprise me if its still the original transmission. and ive looked up the clutch lever part numbers and from what i found, theres only a 4wd version and a fwd version. and yes i still need the lever. at the moment im having my local subaru dealer get one from one of their warehouses somewhere in the country

the car originally had a fuel injected ea82, but it was swapped to a carberated ea81. not sure exactly why

ya, my car is a 5 spd dual range and im currious if the non dual range would even fit. i feel like it might be easier to find

ive got a question about part interchangeability. the clutch release lever in my 88 gl 4wd broke almost in 2, and im currious if i could substitute it for one from a 2wd. im having trouble finding the leaver. auto parts stores dont carry it, and dealers almost dont have any. i need a functioning lever asap, as every day my car is not running, im losing money by being out of work. if anyone has one they can overnight or knows where to look, i would be very grateful. i know the part number for the one i need is 30531aa031 and the part number for the 2wd lever is 30531aa100.

i was the coil. replaced and running fine now