cannonball

Another 2000 OBW owner here with the P0420 code. I replaced both sensors at 95,000. The CEL came back on after 115,000. I now have 145,000 on the car and no problems. My CEL comes and goes rather frequently. Meaning it comes and goes with each tank of gas. Luckily we don't have inspections around here anymore. I have to agree that the computer system must be sensitive.

I doubt it's related to the starter. It's probably more fuel or lack of related. Sound like it's time for a tune up if that hasn't been performed recently. You might as well reset the computer while you're at it.

I have to agree. That's why gravel road driving is so fun. Take a corner and when you feel the slide sideways just give it the gas and a little countersteer.

That's why in my earlier post I stated that I think it's more of a dragging effect than a locking effect. I don't see how the plate surfaces could actually join together since they are directly connected to the drive shafts. As you can see from my avatar I do a lot of cycling. This time of year I am on the trainer. My trainer has a fluid resistance unit, and the faster I turn the rear wheel the harder it is to pedal. So it appears on a manual that there in no mechanical connection between the transmission and the drive shafts except the oil that uses centifugal force to spin the plates thus turning the shafts. If one spins faster than the other then the oil thickens or spreads (however you want to look at it) and it creates a dragging effect to the opposite set of plates causing torque transfer. If this is the case then Subaru has a lot of faith in that silicone oil. Also this why they don't want uneven tire sizes because it will wear out the oil prematurely rendering it useless. Even the the oil may work under normal conditions it won't have the ability to thicken anymore and you or stuck with an open center diff.

What kinda HP and torque does it produce? Going to check out the thread now.

Some more interesting reading. http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/traction/tech_traction_4wd_2.htm

First time attaching something so I hope it works. Here is some info on the VC. It says silicone oil and air. It explains how it works, but it should be open to discussion on how it works in layman terms. Center Diff.pdf

If that were the case then both front tires would have to break free at the same time with equal amounts of friction (or lack of) between the two. But as Setright said if the traction is different between the two front wheels then the one with less traction will get the power. Since you have the rear LSD that would help out some, but depending on how stuck you are the transfer may not be enough to move the car. As for the 4EAT's there is a 90/10 split between front and back so the transfer of power to the rear is much faster then say a rear wheel assist drive car like the Honda. Also remember that the torque split is 50/50 in 1st and 2nd. I may be wrong, but the viscous coupling action of the manual is more of a dragging effect then a locking affect. If the front shaft spins faster then the rear shaft then the differential heat will cause the fluid to thicken. This in turn causes the rear shaft to try to match the speed of the front shaft. I have read that the manual has the ability to send 100% of the power front to rear. I'm not to sure that is correct. I think it has the ability to send the available power that the spinning tires aren't soaking up. BTW The VC is sealed with fluid mixed with air. It is believed that this style of differential can be ovecome in certain situations. Psst... BTW people get agitated around here if one compares the Honda with the Subie.

If both rear wheels spun the same direction then it means you have a rear LSD.

99.9% of the Explorers SHOULD be AWD at best since none of them will ever see the need for locking the center diff. Then you would have that LSD effect all the time. Snow is the biggest threat at this point, and the AWD should be adequate for most situations to get up and going in the slick stuff. IMO ice/ snow mix is the best recipe for fun with the subie and far exeeds a 4WD in the handling department. (note: see my definition of AWD and 4WD from my earlier post) A realistic reason to have a 4WD would be if you had a heavy boat that you had to get in and out of the water on a steep landing. Truth be known I don't really know how the AWD Explorers work. Without researching I would assume that it is RWD until slippage is detected.

You had to throw the old "4X4" term in their didn't ya?

Setright kinda has a good point. It is definitley all marketing babble. I think it is up to us here at USMB to set it straight. 4WD= Lockable Center Diff. AWD= Limited Slip Center Diff. at best Now where it really gets sticky is when you have an AWD Subaru (auto) like AndyJo's Impreza that is modded to lock the clutch pack thus taking it from AWD to 4WD with the flip of a switch.

Just out of curiosity what cars have or have had AWD with an open center diff?

Although there are many configurations of both systems, I think the most basic difference is that with a 4WD you can lock at a minimum the center differential so that at least a front and rear are recieving equal amounts of torque through directly locking the gears(and front and rear drive shafts). AWD is more forgiving in that the center diff allows slippage between the front and rear. Thus as previously posted you can make a turn without the vehicle bucking like mad. There is a good thread here about locking the diff on auto subies. AWD has limited slip diff's working all the time instead of mechanical lockers used only when needed. I would also like to add that I believe the true definition of AWD should be that all the wheels are receiving power at all times. It should not be confused with what we call around here "rear wheel assist" systems like the Volvo Cross Country and Honda Pilot which only delivers power the the rear wheels after the front begin to slip.

In all fairness this is a habit I have which could explain the extra short life I got.

Well, it's official. I got a whopping 2 months out of my Silverstars(low beam), and both of them blew in the same 24 hour period. I think I'll go back to the more economical bulb. I was fooled once. Not again.

Yep. My ADM hasn't dimmed in some time, but I don't feel like paying big bucks to replace it.

Is there a place to get a standard mirror with the compass option?

Correction. Max torque is 72 not 75 like I previously stated for 2000 OBW.

75 ft/lb is the max torque for your car. That's what I torque mine to.

Check your inner CV boots on the axles. Check the passenger front first. See if the boot is split and grease is splattered on the cat.

There will be no difference in the oils at running temp. The 5W/30 will be thinner at start up(cold). I am changing my oil tonite and switching from 10w/30 to 5w/30.

How many miles on those plug wires? I would start there as I have had wierd missing problems that were related in the past with different vehicles. Other than that you may want to replace the fuel filter while your at it.

Hello Charlie. Good to see a fellow Greenvillian here on the board. Sorry about your experience with that dealer. I personally try to steer away from them. The only work I've had them do is the things I don't trust my local guy to do like timing belt,coolant changes, and recalls. Last time I took it there they left a couple a hoses lose on the top of my engine. Funny enough I got a call from a Subaru survey person soon after and I didn't give them I good rating. Anyways I don't have much to add to your problem. I have thought about going to Prestige or Hunter Subaru in Asheville since they have been around alot longer. It's just the logistics of getting the car there. I am in the search for a local independant shop with Subaru experience. If I ever find one I will post back. Good luck getting that short fixed. Electrical problems are a ***************.

I use mine all the time cause they look cool. As for the faux HID lamps, they're a rip off (Sylvania Silverstars). They are not brighter as advertised just whiter which I agree definitely wash out certain terrain. Even the true HID lights will wash out. I use a HID light for night riding on my MTB and although it is very bright at 12 watts it still washes certain rock surfaces.