Frank B

Oh yeah, if it has hydraulic lifters, there will be a sticker on the valve covers that say so.

Disconnect them both from the engine and tuck one down towards the ground, connect the garden hose to the other and slowly open it up. unless you drown the carb or distributor, the mess is no big deal. You could just disconnect them from the barbs on the firewall, and add several feet of hose to the discharge side when you flush. Got an old hose laying around?

uhh, what year is it again? Some of these engine have hydaulic lifters and require NO adjustment. I can't remember what year they started that, 84? Do a search here on that one. May need to "flush" the engine with some Rislone or Marvels Mystery Oil in the oil when you change it. Or a new oil pump.

Nevermind about the fuel mileage, your not getting any with those tires

+1 on the oil pressure sending unit, and the alternator voltage check. Wait to see what your actual oil pressure is before buying bearings, the bottom end is probably just fine. Any knocking? How much oil actually leaks out of it? The two ea81's I've had both got between 32-37mpg, and I don't drive like grandpa! so another +1 for giving it a once over(tune up). May be worth a look under the valve cover to look at the valves for that lost cylinder, you never know what you'll find, or have lost!

Start by taking up donations to pay for it's funeral! I feel embarassed for it Just put it out of it's misery.... but in true USMB fashion, part out whatever(if anything) that's still good on it first!

I love it when replies are made while you replying . So yeah, what they said ^^^

Could be out of time, double check that the timing belts were installed properly. Or that one isn't just missing! One belt also drives the oil pump, the other belt drives the cam that the distributor is sriven off of, the engine, or that half, can run poorly if the other belt breaks, but you have no oil pressure so it won't be runnning for long....

I had an ea81 hatch do this, it was the worn distributor bushings. Only when it was very cold, the shaft would chatter, once warmed up it would stop. Is there any play in the distributor shaft? Does your tach jump around when the noise is there? I remember it being a screeching chatter, not a rolling whirr. A whir like bearing noise would suggest the alternator, or maybe the idler pulley(s). At least to start with anyways . Does your brat have AC? Sometimes the clutch will wear and the pulley will chatter and sound like a bell, or alarm clock.

oh, and yes the PT is perma torque. Said to be better than OEM.

I hope you have a strong back if you want to do it with the engine in the car... I don't, and I have . you will need to unbolt the engine mounts and jack up the engine to drop the pan, one reason why it's easier to pull the engine. But be sure to clean the oil pickup screen while the pan is off. You also want the rubber seals/O rings that go between the head and cam case, and a new oil pump or re-seal the oil pump. Clean and repack the bearings in your timing belt tensioner pulleys, unless your kit comes with new ones. Since your intake will be off, don't forget new intake gaskets, OEM is best. While the intake is off, clean out the egr passageways(carb cleaner). Don't forget your exhaust pipe gaskets too(oem), and be ready to repair the threads in the heads for the exhaust studs!

Nope, federal emissions.

from an old post of mine... "Remove both heater hoses to your heater core, go buy a garden hose repair end and install it on a short piece of heater hose. Screw your garden hose on and clamp the little hose you made onto your heater core. Turn on the water just a little, and gradually increase the flow/pressure untill you get a solid flow out of the other heater core pipe, I like to kink the hose in my hand and slowly release it. Then put the hose on the other heater hose pipe to reverse the flow. Keep in mind that the pressure in your coolant system is usually around 13-16 psi, and your house water pressure could be 40-80 psi. SO if you just crank it up you could very well blow your heater core and fill your floorboards with water! I usually turn the water up and krimp the hose with my hand, slowly opening it up to incease flow. I have done this on my last 6 vehicle and it worked!"

No wonder you glass is fogging up. The needle has never gone past 1/4 of the sweep on any sube I've had once the stat and rad was replaced and core flushed. Unless it was crazy hot in the summer and I was pushing it hard up a hill with bad head gaskets, then it would rise to half or more. Even with bad headgaskets, my loylae won't come up more than 1/4 sweep in the winter. But, if it isn't overheating, that extra temp will be nice in the winter, AFTER YOU FLUSH THE CORE AND SHOVEL THE SNOW OUT.... Oh, and since your rad is rotten anyway, and you intend to replace it later anyway, right?, try flipping the hoses to the core for now and see if it makes a difference.

I've never done it, but I thought after you drive out the pins, it would slide enough to come off the diff??

+1 on the alternator. Idler pulleys and distributors do this too.

I almost forgot, since you can't get to flushing it soon, just switch the hoses to the heater core to reverse flow. Sometimes that works to dislodge the crud over a short time. The downside is that it may end up clogging the rad.

Carbed cars here have it too, my 86 carbed ea82 had one, and yes, it was on all the time

When I go outside later, I'll look at mine, i think it's the same set up. or, you can measure it. Run a sewing tape measure, or a rope around all the pulleys it needs to go around along the outside edge of the pulleys, not down in the grove. You need the outside diameter of the belt, not the inside where the v is. This will get you close and hopefully the adjustment will take care of the rest.

Sounds like it's time to clean/rebuild the carb. There are plenty of posts here on the forum to guide you, and to show you how to access the idle mixture screw and to adjust it properly.

My Loyales' had a piece of black tape over it! The guy told my though....

Well the problem of his windshield fogging up is because his AC is not working(hooked up), the icing and lack of heat is another issue. But remember, every car has a defroster, but not all have an AC. My old Ford doesn't, and I only need to turn up the temp to keep the windshield clear. Time to flush the core! Have you done it before with a garden hose before? Plenty of posts about it here. If your worried about your fingers freezing, and you can get the car close enough to the house, connect the garden hose to the hot water hookup for your washing machine so you can have hot water to keep warm! I've done the same when I was too impatient to wait for the engine to cool of to flush the coolant system, and to fill my koi pond in the cool fall temps, but that's for another forum....

I see what you mean by movement. I have had only one AWD with a locking center diff, my $150 GL-10, and I don't remember having to lock the center diff to "engage" the rear wheels, it was mearly a way to lock the drivetrain to positively distribute power to both the front and rear. But I never took the front axles out either...others here have so they may chime in. The AWD would have three diffs, front, center, and rear, each distributing power where it is needed to balance it all out. I remember some nice power drifting with the center locked and the LSD out back!

But no air flowing out of the different vents as you select the different switches? Maybe check behind the dash to see if the ducting isn't disconnect somewhere. Every sub I've had will burn you out(after heater core flush) even down to the bitter cold single digits here in VA . Maybe there's a way to play with the flappers to get a defrost/floor mode.

if you mean that you can move the shaft inward toward the tranny, then back toward the wheel, that's normal. It needs that play to slide back and forth when the suspension goes up and down. Some have had luck packing it with grease, but it will not last. If all else fails, after you get your new rear axles in, remove one or both of the front axles and put it in 4 hi. it will make the car rear wheel drive which is fine untill you get your new front axles. It will make the car behave differently so be careful.