Frank B

did you buy one of these? When i bought one for my 92 Loyale, I kept getting a one row copper/brass one instead of a two row. Turns out that the two row was replaced by the one row copper brass unit. The one row aluminum replacement with plastic tanks is still available, and that's what I ended up buying. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90764&highlight=radiator

old post with part numbers, pics are dead. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40400 these ford pumps are like 90 psi, the spfi is around 45-50 isn't it? You may want to install a fuel pressure regulator that can handle that pressure to bring it down a bit. i ran this on a turbo which calls for 70 or so psi and it was fine.

That's an old trick to remove the rust in motorcycle tanks. Fill half with coke, throw in some bb's or little nuts and shake it up.

Replacing the fuel filter is a good move anyway. When it doesn't start, do you hear the fuel pump coming on when you turn the key?

Another tip on cutting anything with threads is to put a nut on it, cut, then turn the nut off over the end you cut. The nut will straighten out the threads you messed up while cutting. Also makes it easier to see what you need to file to clean it up.

Your welcome. I learned everything I now know about Subarus right here on this forum, your in the right place.

You probably wont hear any clicking from the DOJ, just the CV. A bad DOJ will cause vibration though. You could take a piece of scrap steel and make an additional heat shield to help out. Just make sure there is a spase between the existing one and the shield for air to flow between them.

Your lifter noise(TOD tick of death) is either lack of proper maintence and the lifters are gunked up, or bad oil pump seals allowing the oil pump to suck in a little air and the air in the lifters is preventing them from being pumped up. I don't know what kind of stuff you have over there, but here I've used SeaFoam, Rislone, and Marvels Mystery Oil all with good results. Some have poured in a quart or two of auto tranny fluid, let idle ten minutes or so, drain and change oil. Some have used Kerosene that way too to clean out the lifters. With the sea foam, I've had the car get quiet after ten minutes idling. Only wheels with the same pattern are Peugeot wheels. Also, toyota, nissan, isuzu 6 lugs can be adapted, or the hubs adapted for those wheels. those should be easier to come by over there. Do a search for 6 lug swap. Ej swaps are common anymore, you need to make an adapter for the engine/tranny to bolt together.

Actually, you need to use Arm and Hammer Washing Soda. 1/2 cup of washing soda for 5 gallons of water. Neg on the piece, Pos on your electode.

I think all the EA82 shafts are the same. Just make sure you can move the joints around freely without any binding. You may be able to get some new grease in them with an injector needle attachment for your grease gun, just be very careful to get it under the rubber seal without ripping it. Most parts stores or farm type hardware stores should have one.

If you check all the things mentioned above, and it still does not work, open up the motor and check the brushes. You may be able to find some at the parts store that will fit with a little filing(they are very soft). I used brushes out of a vacuum cleaner motor once . Best way to eliminate all the other stuff is check for voltage at the motor plug.

If it sat for six years, you may get rexults from cleaning out that carb. Try seafoam or other strong cleaner in the gas. Also, while the egine is idling, put your hand over the carb intake to choke it, but pull off before the engine stalls. Sometimes that will pull the crap out of the jets, yes it works sometimes. Or just take the thing off and clean it correctly...

It sounds like this was the problem to begin with. A lot of us have chased a head gasket/head issue by replacing everything in the cooling system first! The only way to know is to take off the heads. As mentioned, do both. Get a manual, search this forum, learn as much as you can about it before you do it. I know your a mechanic, but have you worked on a Subaru OHC flat four? Around here, Felpro PT gaskets are said to be the best. You can check the heads by laying a straight edge acrossed the gasket surface at various angles. Use a feeler gauge to measure any gap between the head and straight edge. The manual may give an allowable limit to the warpage?? You will also need intake gaskets(OEM), exhaust gaskets(OEM?), valve cover gaskets, good time for timing belts, oil pump reseal or whole pump, cam seals, cam case o rings, front crank seal, etc etc. Basically your going to reseal the engine except the rear main. Unless you pull the engine.... Doesn't machining OHC heads mess up the timing??

I'd bet that more than half of the people on this board paid $400 or less for thier Subaru, I did! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768 Timing belt procedure shows the oil pump, see how it's driven by the timing belt?

It is easy, and you won't have a problem at all doing it. There are similar threads listed on the bottom of this page, and plenty of posts about oil pumps here to read.

Oh, keep looking around here and you'll be able to put together a step by step procedure. Did you replace the belts yourself? If so, it's basically the same job, but after you take the belts off, you take off the oil pump. If it were a new pump I'd say be sure to fill the pump with assembly lube, or Vaseline to lubricate it and to help it prime when you crank it up. Not sure if you really need to do that when you re-use the old pump. The TOD has many causes. The most common are a leaking mickey mouse O-ring. Usually it won't leak oil, but it will harden and flaten with age and air will be sucked in from the oil pump. Those little bubbles get trapped in the lifters and will not allow the lifters to pump up. Other causes are lack of changing the oil regularly, and the use of cheap oil. After you get the leak fixed, try changing the oil, using a good filter and brand name oil with a quart of Rislone to clean out the lifters.

Subaru isn't the only company that makes/sells them, but get them from Subaru. Do you have a repair manual? All the info you need is in there. Do a quick search and you'll see that because of the amount of other parts that need to come off, it's a good time to replace the timing belts and tensioners, and water pump. Are you sure it's the oil pump gaskets? could be the front crank seal too.

Or use brass nuts, if you can find them. If not, then use stainless steel nuts. I used Walker gaskets on my Loyale, and they're still holding up. No listing in the parts books, so I just took in my old one and they matched it up.

When you rebuilt it you could have reversed the wires inside to cause the motor to turn backwards. I know it's possible, I did it twice!

You need these in your tool box, Still a pain, but it works. Sometimes , if there's room, you can take a phillips bit for a drill, in a small socket, on a 1/4" drive rachet too.

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Having the vacuum advance hooked to the manifold is wrong, it should be hooked to the carb to a ported vacuum source. Get a manual to see where, I can't remember.

Is there any noise associated with it? A hatchback I had did this when it was cold, then it would jump around. But there was a screetching from the distributor. The shaft and bushings were worn enough that the shaft would chatter while spinning.

just watched the video, I know, I should have done that before posting ^^ Anyway, That spark is strong to jump that far. Have you pulled the plug and checked spark there? Swapping the plug and wire kinda took care of that I guess. Pulling the other wires makes a noticeable difference right? Is the plug wire worn and grounding somewhere?