Frank B

I got the kit, and dug into the car yesterday. I ended up not even using the belt or water pump since the ones on my car have been replaced recently. The whole point of tearing into it was to replace one leaking cam seal, I just wanted to have all the parts on hand just in case. I took off the oil pump and replaced the little O ring behind it, glad I did because it was flat and no loner an O, more of a D. The timing belt covers were half broken by the last monkey that had it apart, and broke the rest of the way when I had my hands in it, so I'm running it with no covers. I made my own timing marks on the engine above/behind the cam pulleys by stamping a mark using a screwdriver as a punch, then put a dab of white paint in the mark. It's not precision but it will do. But, I forgot about the spacer in the tensioner pully and I had to leave the bolt a little loose until I released the tensioner, then tightened the bolt. It's ok for now, but the tensioner can't adjust. So I'll dig into it again next week and replace it with the spacer from the old one. And, helicoil the threads for the tensioner since that monkey stripped half of them.... Overall I think the kit was of good quality, the belt doesn't have marks on it so unless you've replaced it enough times to be familiar with the process, get a different belt. The kit with water pump is half the price of just the pulleys/idlers, so it's worth it just for them.

Code is DEALIO Good for $20 off $50 or $40 off of $100 It just saved me $40 on a new alternator! You have to pay online then pickup at the store.

That just looks like the results of the water pump and thermostat rusting.

It could have been an oil/coolant mix. Was it white/tan and milky? But most likely just a result of sitting for so long. We need that pic.

Thanks for the replies! The kits with water pump just went on sale.

So how have these kits from Mizumoauto held up so far?

I wet sanded mine too. First with 1000 grit paper, then 1500 grit, then 2000 grit. Each time going untill my hands hurt. You can see the plastic coming off in the water! Then let them dry, then use PlastX polish and they look good as new. I think I paid $10 for the paper and polish, and did two vehicles with it and still have polish left for other stuff.

Yup, It's got the roll down windows. Pretty much a plain jane with ac.

282,000 miles, so it may be time to replace it Thanks for the replies, I'll tinker with it and post back.

My "new to me" 96 Legacy AC keeps cycling on and off. The air is ice cold when the compressor is engaged, but it keeps clicking on and off. The air is cold, then warm, then cold, etc. And the air isn't cold at all when idling, even though the compressor is engaged and the fans are on. I don't have the high/low guages, just a store bought refill hose with a guage on it. It says the system is at 25-28 psi on the low side when engaged. Is that right? I put a can of 134a in it, and it took it fast! Do you think it just needs another? Is this a syptom of a sensor or switch going bad, or is the compressor shot? Thanks

I just can't stay out of a Subaru. I sold My Last one a little over a year ago, and wasn't driving it for a few months before that. So needless to say, I've been miserable for a while now. But, I just bought a 96 Legacy Brighton Wagon! My first wagon, and my first driveable Legacy (I parted out one once). It's my 8th Subaru and by far my favorite. Standard issue AWD 2.2 Legacy with no major options. No power windows or locks, or morrors, or seats. There isn't even a tach on it ! But I like it that way, simple lasts longer. It needed some minor repairs and adjustments, basic tune up and fluids changed and she was running like she should. I'll post more about it later, maybe even take a picture. Since I sold my Loyale, I've been driving a Lumina and a little S-10 pickup, good vehicles, but I've never felt happy with them. There's nothing like a Subaru! Now I need to sell that S-10 to pay for parts......

When you have a welder, you always "need' to use it ! Good work! The paper air filter is a better choice. Use a good brand with quality media and your engine will last a lot longer. Even considering the debate on restriction of paper verses cotton, the large surface area of the paper element over that small crap cotton one still provides more than enough airflow. Did Subaru use a bigger filter on the dual carb engines?

Look for aircleaners for old Fords, like Pinto. Even Chevy Vega and some Dodge cars. 70's 80's. Some of the 4 cyl cars used the holley 5200 version carb so the air cleaners will fit. The only problem may be hood clearance. The years and models of those cars was posted on this forum years ago, that's how I know it . But It may not be here now. You'll know which ones buy that oval shape of the mounting area. I used to have one, since I feel the same way about K&N filters. It was a Fram filter that came with the paper filter and the air cleaner housing. Here's an AC Delco one on Ebay just so you know what I'm talking about. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AC-DELCO-A595C-Air-Cleaner-Housing-N-O-S-/220735416348?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3364db281c Also try sites that are for the old Ford and Chevy straight sixs, Like Fordsix.com or Langdons Stovebolt. Those guys use webers too.

A quick Bing search yielded this, http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?searchType=global&N=0&Ntt=66-7008 Or the reman, http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQSubaruQQLoyaleQQA1_CardoneQQAxle_AssemblyQQ19901994QQA1607008.html But you have to send your old one back for the core charge. Double check to make sure they fit! They're still on amazon, but only the remans and no free shipping.

I put mine in the classifieds section

Does it have electric solonoids on the carb? One is a fuel shut off that only opens when voltage is applied, I think there's an idle mixture one too? I can't remember. Either way, make sure 12 volts is present, if not, trace the wires to find the problem. I that's not it, you may have to pull the carb, and tear it down to clean it out, the idle circuit could be plugged.

Connect the test connectors and then count the flashes. On my 92 loyale, they are under the hood, up by the brake master cylinder. There is a pair of green ones, and a pair of white ones. The green ones are the test connectors. Read this, and save it to your favorites, you'll need it again . http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

That's good if you want to control it yourself, I've done that too to de-ice the windshield faster, but to disable it, it's so much easier to just unplug it. Here's a generic pic of an AC compressor, see the wire going to the clutch? All AC compressors will have one, or two, just un plug it. If the compressor is toast, you should be able to remove it and run a shorter belt. Just put plastic bags over the hose ends and tape or zip-tie them on to keep dirt from getting into the system.

There should be wire(s) going to the clutch, disconnect it and the clutch will not engage.

Can you weld? Since the stud holes are useless, you could cut threads in the remaining two holes on each exhaust port, then weld some ears on the exhaust flages to bolt it up. You would need to make the ears, drill the holes in them, hold up the exhaust, fasten the ears to the engine using the studs in the new holes, then tack them on the flanges. lower the exhaust and finish the weld.

They were that way in every Subaru I've had to replace the seals. I don't think they will go in with that long lip towards the bearing, I don't think there is enough room. With the inner seal, that long lip goes over the end of the axle. The original outer seals didn't have that lip. Next time you replace the bearings, go with sealed ones as mentioned above. # 6207-2rs Pop out one of the seals, put some real grease in the bearing, grease the inside of the hub a bit, and install it with the remaining rubber seal facing out, towards the wheel seals. Those bearings turn up super cheap on ebay.

Performance radiator wasn't one of the companies I bought them from, but every one I talked to, or found online, or the local parts stores, at the time had the same brand/suppliers and ALL said they could get the two row because all of the info they had never changed when the two row was replaced by the one row copper/brass unit. If you can get them to put one in thier hands, and maybe send you an actual pic before you buy it, you'll know for sure.

could just be the contacts in the solonoid on the starter, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=88627&highlight=starter But it is best to just replace the whole starter with a new/rebuilt unit.

did you buy one of these? When i bought one for my 92 Loyale, I kept getting a one row copper/brass one instead of a two row. Turns out that the two row was replaced by the one row copper brass unit. The one row aluminum replacement with plastic tanks is still available, and that's what I ended up buying. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90764&highlight=radiator

old post with part numbers, pics are dead. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40400 these ford pumps are like 90 psi, the spfi is around 45-50 isn't it? You may want to install a fuel pressure regulator that can handle that pressure to bring it down a bit. i ran this on a turbo which calls for 70 or so psi and it was fine.