Frank B

But no air flowing out of the different vents as you select the different switches? Maybe check behind the dash to see if the ducting isn't disconnect somewhere. Every sub I've had will burn you out(after heater core flush) even down to the bitter cold single digits here in VA . Maybe there's a way to play with the flappers to get a defrost/floor mode.

if you mean that you can move the shaft inward toward the tranny, then back toward the wheel, that's normal. It needs that play to slide back and forth when the suspension goes up and down. Some have had luck packing it with grease, but it will not last. If all else fails, after you get your new rear axles in, remove one or both of the front axles and put it in 4 hi. it will make the car rear wheel drive which is fine untill you get your new front axles. It will make the car behave differently so be careful.

When you hit the different buttons do you hear the valves/flappers moving to re-direct the air? You may have a vacumm hose off somewhere.

May be a myth that that's what they are for, but I've seen where they have popped out when the water in the coolant system froze. Not saying your wrong, just saying that's why I said it. Anyways, fix the car and fill with the proper coolant, or you may damage it this winter.

I must be thinking of a different engine.....

+1

You may know this, but I'll say it anyway.... There are several levers and vacuum actuators to control the airflow through the vents under the center dash, I bet you could play around with those to get a combo of defrost/floor heat. Also, there on the linkage for those controls, right by your right foot area, is a micro switch. When you hit the button for defrost, the linkage hits that switch to engage the A/C compressor. That will dry the air and de-fog the windows better, but cools the air, and slows the engine. You can disconnect that switch, or install a toggle switch to disengage it, just for the cold winter days. Then you will just get heat onto the windshield. Also, pull the blower motor(fan) and clean out the ducting right there. And flush the heater core.

Same part for left and right. Same goes for the front axles. What parts store is it? What brand of axles do they carry? I prefer to look up the parts myself online, then just go in with part numbers. there have been too many trips back and forth to the parts stores because of the wrong parts being ordered. A1 cardone reman rear #607036

It doesn't have to be a full on leak to be able to smell it. One drop of gas could easily evaporate before it can hit the ground. Keep looking. You may have to drop the tank to inspect it. But check the lines, pump, and vapor canister first. good luck.

Those air pockets may have been what saved it! Besides, that's what freeze plugs are for. If you can't fix it now, and have something else to drive, just drain it all, blow thru the heater hoses to clear the heater core, and the engine, and let it sit untill you can fix it.

I've had two turbo subarus, and all I can say is your in for it! Nothing but electrical problems! Take the time to clean ALL electrical connectors you can find under the hood. Remove and clean all ground wire connections(scratch paint off to insure a good ground). Add a few ground wires too, one from intake to case(block), one from case to body. Remove all sensors and clean them, and the threads they screw into, including rad fan swith in the radiator, and O2 sensor. Since it's been sitting, check your injectors. Does it miss at idle? Carefully remove one plug wire at a time and see if the engine stumbles, if so, that cylinder is ok, if it doesn't change, that cylinders injector may be clogged/bad. You do not want a lean fuel condition with a turbo! Clean, replace cap and rotor, replace wires, clean/replace spark plugs, etc.

MPFI, SPFI and Turbo

There really isn't a good way to clean it out while on the vehicle, but if you get it off there are a lot of options. You could try electolysis(google it), You could wash it out, maybe put some nuts and small bolts in the cleaning solution then slosh it all around to knock the rust off. Then coat with POR-15 or other tank sealer so it doesn't rust up again. It may be easier to just replace the tank too. Do you fill the tank all the way every time you get gas? Allowing some space above the gas at all times is a bad idea. Moisture builds in that space and rusts the tank. It may have just been normal build up too. to be sure, change the fuel filter again at the next oil change and see what comes out. Since it's carbed and has a low pressure fuel system, you could use a clear plastic filter between the pump and tank.

I just re-read your post. The bearing is also used in a lot of lawn and garden equipment, snowmobiles, and even in some harley transmisions. if your auto parts stores don't have them, try equipment repair shops and maybe a call to a bike shop. It may prove harder to get the seals. You need two bearings.

I wouldn't worry about the discoloration, but, it really is a good practice to replace the bearings and seals while your doing an axle job.

Remove the air intake hose from the thottle body and clean the inside of it with thottle body, or brake cleaner. It will most likely be black and gummy in there so you may have to scrub it with a rag too. If you feel confident enough, open up the thottle and stuff a rag in behind it to catch all the solvent and gunk so it doesn't go into the engine, just remeber to fish it out before you start the car!! Or if you have time, get a new thottle body gasket and remove it from the engine so you can give it a proper cleaning.

And this hasn't changed at all after you've replaced all those parts? Go through the brakes. Clean all the grease, sand, and other funk from everything on the front end. Then clean and bleed the calipers, replace pads, scuff the discs with emory cloth(or have them turned) and check the shields to see if anything is rubbing the discs.

yes he is. Sounds like it may have stopped working and someone hard wired it, bad idea. These things are cheap at a junk yard, mostly because nobody knows what it is!! Have you checked the test connectors to see if they were connected? http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

next time disconnect the cable from the carb/throttle body and see if it moves freely then, it may not be the cable. Or, Remove the cable from the car, and spray inside it with a good brake/carb cleaner to remove all the funk. Then let it hang or whip it around to get all that out. Then use motorcycle cable lube to lube it up. If it is just ice, it shouldn't happen again. Also check the routing to make sure it isn't kinked, or has a dip to hold water. Also clean the throttle body/carb very well inside and out then lube the linkages with WD40 or the like.

Did it run hot?

Usually that's a "lazy fix" when there's other problems are causing the car to run hot. Usually it all atarts with a rotten radiator. Take a look at the bottom few rows and down inside if you can. A new one is about $100 anymore. One row rad will be fine. Or head gasket/cracked head failure putting super hot exhaust gasses into the coolant creating too much heat in the cooling system for it to handle. Is there any corrosion around the housing? Or does it look like just a bad seal by the gasket. When you get a thermostat, get a lever vent rad cap too. Once you get it all back together, and all the air bleed out, start it up and let it run for just a few minutes then pull that lever. If you get a rush of pressure up into the overflow tank every time you do it, there's gasses getting into the system. A good way to bleed all the air out after you drain the old out, is to pop off a heater hose and point it up, while you fill the rad, the air will come out of the hose, just stop when the coolant atarts to come out of it and put it back together. Start it up and watch the temp guage. If it gets too hot turn it off and let it cool off before starting it up again, or just pop that lever cap when it gets hot to vent the pressure, either one should clear any air bubbles.

Yup, that's why I said go oversize now with a self threading(thread cutting bolt) to save some cash and just to get it going, then fix it later. I say "junk cars because if it where a jewel, you wouldn't do it that way. Every Subaru I've had would be considered junk , but I still did it the right way(metric helicoil. Don't drill thhe hole any deeper when you do it! The helicoils are stainless steel, so you won't have to worry about them rusting up. Use a steel stud, and a brass nut, if you can find one the right size, if not go stainless. That way none of it will rust together so you can take it apart again.

If the previous owner, or mechanic used silicone instead of a gasket it can "blow out". Be sure to clean it up very well before installing the new gasket. There should be an arrow that points "to rad" on the thermostat. that arrow should be pointing up with the flow of coolant.

The compressor should not be turning, the clutch not engaging, if you do not have the ac or defroster on. If they are not on, the clutch will not engage, so the compressor will not be turning. You will know if it is, it takes half the engine power to turn it . If it is not engaged, you disconnect the wires, and you still hear a whine, it could be play in the clutch itself. Sometimes you'll hear a metal on metal screech, or it sounds like a bell ringing. or it's a bearing in another idler pully, like the timing belt tensioners. You could remove the belt on some of these cars.

I couldn't find the 1.25 pitch bolts or studs when I did mine, had to use 1.5 helicoil and studs. Find the studs first so you don't buy the wrong helicoil set. They are too expensive to get it wrong. Some people have used a size slightly larger with thread cutting bolt. Fine if the car is junk or you intend on fixing it right later.