Frank B

How do you actuate the brakes?

The relays and fuses are for each side, so if the fuse blew, one side would be out. Bet it's just the bulbs.

The bushings are still available at your Subaru dealer. There's been several posts here about replacing them. I need to do it too.

Your right, but it's been done. Seen it here on the board so it's got to be true:grin:.. The EJ will fit in there, so they say........

The xt6 2.7 6 cylinder will bolt up, but it's longer so you'll have to relocate the radiator. People have done it, but not easy. Better off getting the EA82 4 cylinder or go EJ22.

Double check that the pads are square on the rotors. like this l l , not this l / . exaggerated, but you get the point. If you don't get them and the little metal clips on right, it will bind. Also check to make sure everything is tight!

Is the carb in good shape, or is it worn out? I was looking for one for my ford a while back and gave up when I couldn't find a good one.

Those 38DGES webers used to sell for 300 on Ebay, if anything sell it and buy the right weber for your car.

Does it only stall when cold, or will it still do it after it's warmed up? The choke will only effect the start up and warming up, not after it's reached operating temp.

Your not going to hurt anything at all with a manual tranny, just put it in neutral. You'll add some miles to the car, unless you disconnect the speedo cable. A manual tranny will still get it's lubrication because the gears are submerged in oil, an automatic only gets oil when the engine is turning the main shaft which drives the pump, they need the driveshaft removed. I've towed several manual cars and trucks without removing anything and they were fine.

The ignition components should be monitored to determine when to replace them, cracks in the wires, worn electrodes on plugs, deposits on cap and rotor, so your intervals may be just fine for those, but unless your in a fairly dust free environment, your air filter should be replaced more often. The fuel filter should be around 15k, but most people only change it when it's clogged. I like to blow through the fuel filter in the direction of fuel flow after the fuel has drained out, then blow through the new one to compare.

I've used Borg Warner with good results before, actually I've had an intermittent miss until I replaced a new bosch with a new borg warner! How's your fuel and air filters? Your injector may need cleaning as well. Have you cleaned the MAF? Get some electrical parts/contact cleaner or some brake parts cleaner, they both clean without leaving a residue behind. Remove the MAF and spray the wire.

After all that, it may be worth your time to open up the carb and check the float to see if it's sticking.

It may be the same stuff, I remember guys talking about it on the MC forums before POR-15 offered the tank kit. They liked it better since it was black and not white like the Kreem stuff. Maybe it's worth a try on a mower tank to see?

Yup and Yup. http://www.por15.com/products.asp?dept=12

It will take a while for that coolant to burn out. Good job.

You pressure tested the cooling system? Remember that the intake gaskets are also tested when you do this. They are replaced during a head gasket job, and often times it looks like new head gaskets fixed it when it was really just the new intake gaskets. Try them first.

What year GL do you have? Kreem is the name of stuff for MC tanks. You'll probably need three kits to do a car tank. POR-15 can be used to do the same thing.

Get used to it, it's a common problem with Subarus, it's because of the overlap of the generations(ea81,ea82). Best bet is to get on Napa or other parts stores website and look up the part yourself, then call them with the part number, they love that!

I used to get three bottles every time I bought a car, one for the gas tank, and one for the oil, and one down the intake, slowly,(back when it was $3.99 not $8). Followed by a tune up, never had a problem. Being made of "lighter" petroleum products, I would bet that most of it will evaporate after a few hundred miles anyway. The reason you want to change the oil after it's been in a while is to get the crap out of the engine that the sea foam dissolved. After that, use Rislone, http://www.barsproducts.com/100QR.htm

Look at the link in my first post in this thread.

First, get a repair manual. But for now; http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c15280067039 The float is just part of a valve (float + needle and seat)that lets fuel into the carb. Take the carb off the car before you take it apart, and if you can, take as many pictures of it during the dissasembly so if you get stuck when putting it back together, you'll know what it's suppossed to look like.

Replace the fuel filter, then open up the carb and check to see if the float is sticking. Clean it up while you have it apart too.

You can weld it up if you like, be a good time to do it with the manifold off. But a good base gasket will seal it up, just like it did stock. Some guys have spooged a bunch of JB weld in there to seal it up, but I'd go with a welder.

Well, just keep in mind that neither Ford or Subaru make the replacement fuel pumps, or the original in some cases.