Frank B

Sounds like you have a worn tie rod, and you may be able to find greasable ones. The knuckle spins on the ball joint and the strut. You may be able to find a greasable ball joint too.

all gone ...

If it's the four spade relay like the headlight relays, go to autozone or advance auto or an auto parts store that can get or stocks Pilot fog lights and get a pilot relay part # PLRY-1. It's a 30 amp relay for way less than the direct replacement 22 amp relay. I payed $3.99 each for the ones I have, but they don't stock them anymore at Autozone so what's on the shelf is it. pilot relay http://www.autozone.com/R,1530620/store,2039/initialAction,accessoryProductDetail/shopping/accessoryProductDetail.htm direct replacement http://www.autozone.com/R,2180271/vehicleId,1772102/initialAction,partProductDetail/store,2039/partType,01321/shopping/partProductDetail.htm

Napa Distributor Bushing w/ .6270" Straight Bore Bushing ECH DP106 $6.49 Distributor Bushing w/ .6299" Bore Top Hat Bushing ECH DP107 $6.69 Distributor Bushing w/ .6270" Bore Top Hat Bushing ECH DP108 $5.49

Check the threads about using EA82 SPFI on the EA81, they're using the EA82 disty.

Don't drill a hole in it, I tried that before and it seemed like the t-stat didn't open up as soon as it should. The temps spiked before it opened. All it's for is to bleed out air that gets trapped in the intake manifold water passages, that's why it has the little brass thing in it, to act like a valve. After all the air is out, it really isn't needed. And I have yet to use an OEM thermostat. I've had one or two bad ones out of the box, but really no big problems with aftermarket. Just don't buy the cheapest one available.

When I helped to manage two NAPA stores a few years ago, we could order just the grease pack for the axles. It was the same packet that came with the boots when you ordered a boot. Try your auto parts store. it think it was just Moly grease (Molybdenum).

The cooling fan switch, the little sensor in the right rad tank, just supplies a ground to complete the circuit for the fan. You can cut or splice the one that supplies the ground to the relay, the yellow one I think, and run it directly to the body to bypass the switch. This will keep the fan on all the time. or splice into the wire up at the relay and do the same thing. Mine is behind the strut tower on the right side, the outboard relay.

At least they called you.....

What's that on the back, a home made canopy? Kinda cool I guess.

Have you flushed out the heater core yet? Just disconnect both hoses from the engine and connect one to a garden hose and turn on the water, when it flows clear out of the other hose, switch them to back flush. Does your electric fan come on at all?

Every water pump failure I have seen was a seal failure and the coolant leaked out of the weep hole. The lack of coolant caused the overheating. Unless you, or a previuos owner used water only, no antifreeze, your impellers will be fine. Are you using a 50/50 coolant/water mix? Try installing an aftermarket water temp guage just to see what the actual temps are. Also, your thermostat may not be opening completely, it doesn't happen often, but that could be a problem. You don't have bubbles in the coolant do you?

Yup. I don't run anything less than original temp, especially with FI.

Well, the aluminum rad that was in my car was clogged inside, and outside(bugs, dirt) so ANY new rad will perform better than that one. Mine now sits at 1/4 of the gauge sweep, if that. It's about 1/4" up off the needles resting position. barelt moves with the AC on, going up a steep 4 mile mountain(hill to you rocky mt guys).

I looked into the EMPI ones, but there's no EPMI dealer around me, and no online ordering that I could find. Too bad, I really wanted to try them.

The turbo should have came with one originally, but they don't make it anymore. Instead they sell you a copper/brass one that's suppossed to be more efficient. Some here have them, and have no problems. I had replaced the rad on a gl-10 I had just a few years ago, and I was able to get a two row then. I would suspect that if you have an intercooler, and an oil cooler on your turbo car, you could get away with the one row aluminum rad.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/79-1979-Subaru-Brat_W0QQitemZ320280771201QQihZ011QQcategoryZ6783QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I know I posted this in the wrong place, but it deserves the attention.

I read up on this on a Ford Six forum a while back, but I have yet to do it on my old Ford. It's done on them because the harmonic balancer has a tendency to turn and your timing marks aren't where they're supposed to be. Anyway, months ago I bought a Sun Econno meter. Like this one. It's just a vacuum gauge you put on the dash to tell you when to back off the throttle. I bought it to put on my old ford, but I drive the loyale more so I figured I'd throw it on there today. At idle it sets at 25-26 hg. Is that about right? I've yet to drive it, but I will tomorrow to work and see how things go. Anyway, the idea behind setting the timing with a vacuum gauge is that each engine is different and worn to different specs, etc, etc. And to set the timing where the engine makes the most vacuum at idle. Sound right???

Bypass the turbo, run the air intake straight from the MAF, on the airbox, over to the throttle body. Then leave the air or intake side of the turbo open. Leave the exhaust alone. The engine WILL run, and the exhaust will still spool up or turn the turbo. Clean up all the oil from the intake, run the engine and see if oil is coming out of the turbo compressor. If not, turbo isn't the problem. The only other way oil is going to get in the intake is the PCV system.

Rock Auto carries the same brands as the online radiator companies, Radiator Barn, Complete Radiators, JC Whitney and Autozone, or any parts house for that matter. Before you buy one, ask or check the manufacturer, then shop for the best price. Most, if not all, drop ship from the manufacturer anyway and just set their own price. I looked up the 1 5/16 or two row rad under a 90 loyale rs turbo.

You can still get the A1 Cardone on Amazon, I have two, but I haven't installed them yet.

"Open up the cat" meaning to look at it, or to gut it? I seriously doubt it's clogged with an FI engine. If it was, it wouldn't run off idle, or idle at all. Don't gut it, that's just ridiculous no matter how you look at it. It won't run better, and you won't like the sound, oh and it's illegal for a reason. Get two cans of seafoam, one in the tank with fresh gas, one in the manifold, slowly to clean up the valves and chambers. Replace the spark plugs, cap, rotor, and wires. And your engine temp should not come up 1/4 inch on the gauge from resting position. If it does, you need a new rad. Are you loosing coolant? You may have a bad head gasket and that is the problem. Is the AC on? The compressor put's a big drag on the motor. Are your brakes dragging? They smell like a burning clutch. Remember the E-brake operates the front calipers, if the cables aren't adjuated properly, the front brakes will drag. Check all other areas before blaming the cat and becoming part of THE problem when you gut it.

RUN IT! But just at idle for 15-30 minutes keeping an eye on the temp and oil pressure. Watch in the rad for bubbles but I bet you just have water/coolant in the exhaust. Every head gasket job I've done, Subaru or not, has bellowed steam out of the pipe afterwards.

You don't have anti-lock brakes so this is normal during hard panic braking. This is why anti-lock brakes are used now. If you mean that you loose pedal pressure after long braking periods, downhills and such, that is normal. Friction, the reason brakes work like they do, creates heat as you know, but after the brakes reach a certain temp, the brake pads and the rotors will be the same temp and no longer create friction becuase they can't get any hotter, then they do not work! This is the problem with tractor trailers, that's why they have an engine brake and go slow down hills. If you mean that if you hold the pedal down while parked and the pressure fades, it could be the MC if this is when the engine is off, if it does it while the engine is running, it may be the power booster, it uses engine vacuum to boost the line pressure. Test it like this. Engine off pump the brake pedal untill it gets hard to push, but don't use both legs to try and push it theough the floor! Just even steady pressure. When it's hard and pumped up hold it down and see if the pressure fads. If not, good MC. Now start the engine with the pedal pumped up the pedal shoul go soft and lower to the floor, that means good booster. I suggest a good set of brake pads, metallic. Clean and re-grease the caliper slides too. And not standing on the brake so hard. Do it a bit more to find that point that they lock up and train yourself to not apply that much brake, or to let off a bit and pump the pedal at that point to keep them form locking up.