Frank B

You just reminded me of something. In Swannanoa, just east of ashville, is a Subaru shop called Subaru's R us. You can see it from I40. They may be of some help to. Subaru's R US 372 Buckeye Access Rd Swannanoa, NC 28778-2935 Phone: (828) 669-1040

Try posting this in the New Gen forum for some diagnosis help.

When I bought my $150 GL-10 it was doing the same thing, no boost light and no diff lock. Turns out the lines going to, and from the diaphram for the diff lock were off. The solenoids for it were up in the corner under the hood near the wiper motor if my memory serves my at this late(early) hour. I believe there was one more line off somewhere else, and after connecting them, everything worked!

I agree with the removal, but if you have ANY oil leaks, do not use the fiberglass wrap. The oil will saturate the wrap and it may catch on fire!!!

That show was not talking about the older subaru's that's for sure. The only additive you need for them is adding a new radiator, head gaskets, thermostat, intake gaskets, CTS, and a heater core flush!! Not to change the subject, but I'm changing the subject.... What years are these phase I II engines? Or should I say, at what point did they start using the improved design parts on the assembly line?

I had two new GCK axles on my hatch, it did the same thing, the shakes calmed down after a while but never went away. But then the output shaft seals started to leak! It is a sign of a bad DOJ, as mentioned.

Just put it in nuetral.

It was $59, Amazon.com http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CFEZFE only 3 left! I ordered mine before I posted this . Part number 66-7008 fits my loyale, use the part finder to find the one for yours, or the Cardone website has a parts look up. http://www.cardone.com/English/Club/Select/Drivetrain.asp http://www.cardone.com/English/club/members/customer/ecat_brands/imageinfo.asp?PARTNUM=66-7008

Website http://www.empius.com/ Axle catalog, Subaru page http://www.empius.com/2008_driveaxles/driveaxles_pg22.html

I hope your thinking of the remanufactures axles from A1 Cardone, I meant the NEW ones. I think I'll try them, at $50 it's a deal I can't pass up.

Has anyone had experience with these axles? I have used other parts by them, recently a brake booster on the family sedan, and it's fine. But I never knew they offered axles too. They're listed as new, not remanufactured.

I went to Amazon.com to order two GCK NEW axles for my 92 Loyale and they were out of stock. So I went a searching on the net and I could not find anything for GCK? I have been to the GCK website to confirm the parts number before I ordered, and now it doesn't exist? Autozone used to carry these, or at least have them listed on the website, but now nothing. Anybody know?

Is it possible to remove the auto seatbelts and swap in the manual type? My 92 loyale has the autos and I can't stand them! I removed a set from a Legacy once so I know the amount of work envolved in taking them out, but would the standard type just bolt up?

Are you in need of an EA81? I have a whole car for sale, use the engine, sell the rest. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=89635

Doesn't the Ford Bronco II rear driveshaft replace our two piece unit? There was talk about that years ago here on the board but I can't remember the details. It may have been for EA81 cars..... It would be easier than fabbing up a carrier bearing support. Either way, a one piece driveshaft would be fine, I really don't know why a two piece is on it anyway. The diff is stationary since it has rear independent suspension.

I was reminded that I'm getting old when I replaced mine, my back just can't do that anymore! You will see the difference in the construction of the cables when you get a new oem one in your hand. It has plastic sleeves over the cable so there is no metal on metal contact. VERY SMOOTH! Feels like a hydraulic clutch. Make sure you tell them 4wd or 2wd, whichever you have, they are different part numbers, but I don't know why.

Get one from the dealer, and just keep it in the car for a while untill you either feel like doing it all over again, or yours breaks. I just bought a 92 loyale that was going through clutch cables, and wouldn't release the clutch, put an OEM one on it and it's fine. $22 from the dealer, not bad.

Yup, that's why I said don't pay attention to them. I've read posts here before where people have adjusted the hydro motors thinking they were service adjustable, and screwed them all up.

Don't pay attention to the rockers either, my 89 has the adjusters on them. That could easily throw someone off.

If the stock wire one is supposed to handle 130 amps, then this newer design plastic box 50 amp one should be just fine. My lights worked on my way home from work last night just fine. It turned on everything I could find with the highbeams on, and while playing with the window switches, and all was well.

The Hydro engines are supposed to have a gold sticker on the valve covers that say do not adjust valves or something. But I think After a certain year they stopped because my 89 hatch does not have these stickers.

It didn't take 15 seconds for this one to burn up, it was more like 1.

If the mechanic worked like he should have, it never would have burned up . I have seen these all corroded, so I'm sure there's a service limit to them. But anyway, I probably will leave them alone now. I'm getting better at not fixing what isn't broken.

I had the carpet out, completely as well as the seats to clean it all up. It looked fine, no corrosion or water damage, it actually looked brand new!

I should have mentioned this, but I was the cause of the fusible link burning up. So I know what the problem was, me tapping into the wrong circuit. Anyway, the fusible like is a slow burning fuse, it acts differently than a little bus fuse. I just don't rememebr ever seeing a amperage rating on them, it's usually just a size like 12 or 14 guage, or .85 or .5. It's a smaller diameter conductor that will burn up before the circuit wiring does to protect the circuit, like an intentional weak link, or sacrificial link. I just wonder if the color coding is the same? The older wire type red vs this plastic box red one , green wire vs green box , etc. I