Frank B

I wish I thought of that before I hauled it to the landfill!!!! It was just the right size to launch tennis balls or old beer cans full of ice, that's fun. But I did manage to get it up into my truck. I used a come-a-long, the tow strap that I used to yank it out, two 2x6 ramps and a couple pieces of plywood to help it slide. I nearly yanked out my anchor points in the bed, tore my tow strap and shredded the plywood. It took three county convicts to drag it out of my truck at the dump! I enjoy seeing those boys work .

Pull the fuel line off and turn the key on, just to make sure the fuel pump works. But it sounds like you need to open up the carb and clean/rebuild it. The only other thing would be to take the timing covers off and visually inspect the timing belts. If you replace them, replace the oil pump, and water pump too, it's the best time to do it and it probably needs it. Good luck.

Shot or soaking wet. Take them out and burn the gas and carbon off with a propane torch. But don't hold it on the electrodes untill they turn red, that's too hot. Gap and put them back in. Try starting without touching the throttle first. I've used seafoam many time, more than a third down the carb too. It always started, but always took a while. Remember, the engine burns fuel vapor, not liquid fuel.

The biggest I have bounced off! Tryed the backside of my splitting maul, it bounced off! Thought of renting a Hilti but I'll see if I can get it in the truck like it is first. I have to get the spruce tree out of the bed first.

If I thought a brat could haul or tow what that old Ford could, I'd have one. I did think of running the strap over the truck, if I had a roll bar or ladder rack to run it over I would do that. I have some good loading ramps, maybe I'll just pull it up them using my come-a-long attached in the bed. I have some good anchors in the front.

This thing has bothered me since I moved here, and after the last rain storm I decided to dig it out. I think it's a mount for a huge satelite dish, the ones that were popular back in the 80's. I was only able to dig half way down before the soil was too hard, lovely Virginia clay! I was thinking of renting a small jackhammer to bust it up when I thought of pulling it with the car. I hooked the strap up high because at first I just wanted to pull it enough to work it loose, but I got a bit angry and I felt offended when the clutch started to slip. No problem getting traction with those snow tires, just slipped the clutch a bit. So, not wanting to embarrass the car any, I decided to give it all she had, 4 Lo and floored, and she pulled it up and out of the hole! I moved the strap to try to pull it up the hill thinking the concrete block would just dig in and go nowhere, but it just bounced along untill I got to the gravel. I don't know how heavy it is, but I can barely roll it over. Now, how do I use the car to get it into my pickup?!

My cat tags mine with little muddy paw prints every night.

http://www.surpluselectron.com/aaron/holley.htm Here's a bit of info I have held onto. I've never had a Weber or Holley on a Subaru, but I had a Holley 5200 on an Isuzu P'up once. It did OK, used all the Weber parts so getting them wasn't hard. The Holley 5200 is a mirror image, in the sense that the shafts rotate in the other direction. Only a problem when mounting the carb. The cablse will pull from the opposite direction, or you could flip, or turn the carb around to match the cable. I did that on the Isuzu and had no problems. Also use a fuel pressure regulator set to 1.5 psi. http://www.mazdatruckin.com/B2200/5200.html http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/acartpro/product.asp?productid=149 http://www.subarubrat.com/Retrofitting%20the%20Weber%20DGAV%2032.htm http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21562&highlight=jets http://www.racetep.com/webercarbjet.html http://www.gracieland.org/cars/techtalk/weboem.html

Go to the hardware store and buy a garden hose replacement fitting, like this one, A garden hose and heater hose are the same size, 5/8". Remove the heater hoses from the manifold but leave them connected to the core. Put this fitting in one and connect your garden hose. Start with very little pressure then slowly turn it up. I like to turn on the hose, kink it in my hand to stop the flow, connect it, then control the flow myself by releasing the kink slowly. Just remember that your home water pressure is 4 or 5 times greater than the pressure created in your cooling system, so go easy. After a few minutes, switch hoses and back flush. You may get a surge of brown funky water coming out as soon as you start the flow. Once the water flows through clear at a high rate in both directions, your done. Some people have had heater cores blow out doing this, but the core was in bad shape to begin with. If this doesn't work by getting the build up out, you can drain the coolant from the system, add a good flushing agent, reverse the hoses to reverse flow through the core and go for a drive, or you may have to change the core.

Next time, after the car is warmed to where you have sufficient heat at both heater hoses under the hood, turn the fan(heater) on then watch the air temp coming from the vents. Probably just by holding your hand in front of it. If it's hot at first then cools right down, it may be as simple as a partially clogged heater core. The coolant flows through the core very slowly. Enough to heat it up, but not enough to replenish the heat lost that the fan is removing from it. Try flushing the core again through both hoses to back flush it. Or just flip-flop or switch hoses so the coolant flows through it in the reverse direction. It may push the gunk out after a few days, or a few minutes. But then you'll have to flush the entire system to get it out.

Have you checked for debris blocking the airflow throught the core? Or is there sufficient air flow coming from the vents? If you have hot hoses goint to and from the core and no heat from the vents, it could also be the flapper that directs the air flow. The one that moves when you turn the heat temp dial. Check under the dash for broken vacuum lines or one of the valves sticking. But if you have an external, obvious leak, fix it first. If it's internal it's going to be a head gasket, manifold gasket, or the carb base gasket.

Aren't they under the steering wheel? Up under the dash above the pedals. I believe there are two together. And they are silver in color. When I replaced mine, the parts store wanted close to $30 a piece! if you look at the relay, the connection, or blades are in a different configuration than a standard 5 blade. These are a 4 blade relay. Anyway, I went to the fog and driving light section of the parts store and found a 30 AMP relay made by Pilot that was less than a third of the price.

Thanks all for the replies. I should have noted that the guage is brand new, never used on an oxy tank, and never will be. I don't even own a set of tanks. I have several of these guages and a bunch of other HVAC junk that I saved from a dumpster. I learned all about the explosive reaction of pure oxygen and petroleum a long time ago. I just wasn't sure if there would be an inaccurate reading using a guage designed for a gas, to check liquid pressures. But psi is psi as far as my brain can comprehend. I used this set up before I posted, and after bleeding the air out I only got 10 psi on the guage. That's why I asked if this is acurate before I bought a fuel pump. But I may do it all over again using my oil pressure guage, thanks for putting that idea in my head Skip... Thanks again!!

A brass tee with two hose barbs to connect in-line in the fuel line with a 100 psi oxygen guage for a welding tank screwed into it. Will the guage that's supposed to be for oxygen provide an accurate reading in fuel pressure?? I mean psi is psi right? It's all I have right now. And I am testing a fuel injected vehicle so I need tthe 100 psi so I can see if it's a high enough pressure.

Best bet is to buy a small MIG. Get a gas model, not the flux core wire! I have a flux core wire feed welder(it was cheap) and it makes a horrible mess. It's good for your lawn mower, exhaust, or structure repairs that don't need to be pretty. But for body work you need the gas shield. Other than that, just practice. use up a spool of wire on scraps before you take on any real project. Oh, and get some sort of welding manual. Welding is easy, anybody can do it. Just be patient and be safe.

This is my parents car, bought from my influence. It's their second Subaru. To tell you how much driving my Mother does, it still has the original tires on it. But they do live on a dirt/gravel road up the base of a mountain here in VA. , but most of the driving is highway. So an A/T tire wouldn't be a good choice. With the AWD it's gotten her around on the snow and ice just fine with the stock Yokohamas, and it's great on the highway, but the gravel keeps cutting holes in them. So I guess I'm looking for someone that has a street car that also drives on gravel??? I'll sift through Tire Rack again, thanks for the replies. Oh, and as far as Kumhos being an option, not likely. I bought a set in a hurry for a GL-10 I had, new they were awesome and at a good price. But after a few thousand miles driving in the rain was like being on ice! Not a situation I want to put my Mom in.

My parents have an 05 Forester 2.5x that's in need of new tires. The original Yokohamas were fine but they didn't hold up to the gravel road they live on. I've put three plugs in two tires! What tires are you guys happy with?

Other than the wheels, that's my Hatch! Mine isn't as rusty, but close. For $1500 I may put mine on Ebay!!

I just thought of something after reading your post, which makes good sense. How hard would it be to build a guard or skid plate, or hoops to protect the exhaust? This would probably be easier on a car with the 6-8 inch lift with a subframe and nissan TC. But I guess it could be done on a traditionally lifted, or stock car.

Watch ebay, I just got a set for my hatch cheap.

It's not about that, but I'll save my breath and not discuss it here.

Is this shop going to install an exhaust on a car with no catalytic converter?? Why you guys run without one is beyond me. Replacing the original with a new, high flow cat makes better sense.

Thanks Skip, I'll put this on my list.

With some more searching I've found the procedure, but nothing on the seals.

Reviving this old post is a direct result of doing a search, so don't complain about it. Anyway, I am now confronted with this same problem. Has anyone found a supplier other than Beck Arnley?? First I want to fix this on Tuesday or Wednsday so ordering it isn't the way I want to go, and Rock Auto seems to have them in stock but want over $9.00 to ship two little seals that cost half that! They also show the same part number for 4-speed and 5-speed. Also, how difficult are they to get out? After the axles out of the way of course.