Frank B

Just thought I'd share some pics of the prep. Not much need to port match the intake. I suspect this little thing is to imrpove atomization ???? Should it stay or should I make it go away?? It goes back up into the intake as far as my finger can reach so it may be difficult to grind out. A small piece of aluminum window screen to form a bowl filled with JB Weld. It was level with the top when I put it in, but it seeped thru the screen. I'll wait untill it's cured then top it off. I just don't like to think about the drips of JB in the coolant passage!!! I should have used the JB Quick Weld.... After the coolant hose tube was removed and the tang cut off. Notice the run in the JB. I'll have to clean that up and touch it up after it cures too. With the adapter sitting on the intake. I'll have to re-tap the holes to 8mm to match the studs for the plate. And notice the small amount of intake that protrudes into the passage? That's gonna go away. There's also rooom under the secondary side to remove material on both the plate and the intake to open that up too. But I'll have to be careful because there isn't much room. Plenty on the intake, just not on the late. It's recessed a bit so I may have to "fill it" with JB too.

Last one, http://www.subarubrat.com/Retrofitting%20the%20Weber%20DGAV%2032.htm

and this, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21562&highlight=jets

I think there has been rear drive train slop in every Subaru I've had, all 6. Most of it was in the rear diff.

Also try this, it used to be a sticky in the off-road forum. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=29778&highlight=weber

The axle can and will go bad without the boot tearing. It's just like any other mechanical thing that wears out in time. The first symptoms present themselves while turning since it's under stress at that point. Try cleaning up the area since it may be dirt or a small stone lodged in the brakes or shield, but that's a long shot. it does sound like an axle. The wheel bearings usually gring while turning when the wieght of the car is transfered to that side, and even when the weight is shifted off of that side too, but not at full lock at slow speeds. The only part that's stressed at that point is the CV joint. I'd say leave it alone untill it grinds all the time, or during less of a turn going forwards.

With all the time spent to type out "do a search", you could have given him the answer. Get yourself a Weber tuning manual and read up on it. ANd I think there is a weber set-up guide int the USRM, (link top right). You may benefit from installing a fuel shutoff solenoid, like the stock Hitachi has on it. I can't seem to find a pic of one installed but here's a link to a supplier. http://www.jameng.com/prices/#section_7 If the carb is set-up right, play with the timing. The only causes I have seen for run-on are incorrect timing, or too much fuel. How long has this been going on? Since you first installed the weber?

I just went through an EGR cleaning on my 89 hatch. Cleaning, opening, the passages did help fix the pinging on acceleration. But the main problem for pinging was the PCV and hose leading to it were clogged up. I've read that a piece of cable, like speedo cable, in a drill works wonders for cleaning egr passages. But I haven't tried that yet.

Yea, you shouldn't have paid more than $50 shipped for an open diff. Did the seller list it as an LSD?

Just some of the things that have worked for me when I was too lazy to pull the carb off. That's gets old after a few times.

A good sign of a bad distributor is a jumping tach, or a screaching noise from the disty when cold, or stalling while turning.

Well, I've never had an 83 so I don't know exactly. My 89 hatch has the feedback carb with two solonoids on the intake manifold, theres two on the firewall behind the right strut tower too. It does sound like the carb though. Try some good fresh gas with a quality fuel system cleaner. You may have just gotten bad gas too. I think all Hitachi carbs have worn throttle shafts but still idle within reason. SeaFoam will be good in this case, they claim it revitalizes old gas. Also, remove the air cleaner, cap all hoses and lines to it, remove the stud from the cemter of the carb throat, then rev the engine up with one hand on the throttle cable(or linkage), then place your other hand over the carb throat but just momentarily so the engine almost stalls but doesn't. It will create an insane vacuum on all jets and ports and may pull out whatever is clogged up in there, if that's the problem. When you spray carb cleaner down into it, look to the side of the throats and you'll see the air corrector jets, or emulsion tubes(not sure) and spray some directly in them. The red tube on the spray can sits inside them quite well. Alos some down the big vent that sticks out into the throat on top, that will get it right into the bowl.

Hey that's cool! Was it raining during the trip? If so check your distributor for moisture under the cap. And check again for vacuum leaks. One of the vacuum solonoids may be bad, or other components, or even the distributor vacuum diaphram so don't just check the lines. Intake gaskets too. Is the oil and coolant ok? (head gasket failure)

Check the voltage with a multimeter, voltmeter. Just test on the battery terminals at idle, then open the throttle with your hand and see if it goes up to 14.4 or so. 12 volts isn't enough. 13-14.4v is what you need. Every Subaru I've had has dropped at idle. But it sure wouldn't hurt at all to replace the battery and the alternator. When a battery goes through a few discharge cycles, it's usually done for.

About the hill holder, I've never touched it while bleeding the system. Maybe pump up the system then barely loosen the lines (one at a time) and close before the pedal reaches the floor. You should be able to find a master cylinder cheaper than that. Maybe on Ebay.

How did you get air the lines anyway? get a 12 or 16 oz soda bottle, drill a small hole in the cap, insert about two feet of clear vinyl tubing just big enough to fit over the bleeder screw tightly, untill it touches the bottom of the bottle. Put the other end on the bleeder. Open the bleeder about 1/4 turn, fill the master cylinder reservoir, and pump about ten times. Refill reservoir, and repeat. Do this on each corner and you'll be right. The fluid in the botom of the bottle will be sucked up into the system instead of air so you don't need a second person to pump the brake pedal or open the bleeder and get sprayed in the eyes!!

You can have a draw through, or a blow through. The draw thru is where the carb is mounted before the inlet of the carb and the air/fuel mix is drawn into the turbo then pressurized in the intake manifold. The blow through has the carb mounted inside an air-tight box so the entire carb is surounded by pressurized air. Either way you have to jet the carbs rich and that mix can't change like fuel injection so low end performance sucks. Look up the old Chevy Corvair. I can't remember if it was the Spyder or Monza or what sub-model, but there was a carb turbo set up on one of them.

Does the pedal go down super easy? Or do you have to smash it down to get the car to stop? If it goes down super easy then you need to bleed. If it's hard, and your E-brake is tight, then you may have the pads bound up. Turning in the calipers will not re-adjust your E-brake. You do that with the cable. I suggest you take it back apart and start over.

Probably glazed over from slipping the clutch too much to get going. I had the same shimmy and jumping in my old ford truck when I bought it. I backed it up to a tree, a solid wall works too, and put it in reverse, eased out the clutch, pressed the throttle and held it at the point before the tires spun to slip the clutch under a load. Do it for a 5-10 seconds then push the clutch pedal in for 5-10 seconds then repeat. That helps to keep it cool. But it may just be the cable needs to be tightened a tad too, try that first.

I take it that your working on a weber? If the idle speed screw is not providing a response, the carb is running too rich. Is the leak external or internal? It sounds like it's internal(leaking into the engine). I have found that most of the companies that sell Webers, just sell them and don't have any real knowledge of how to set them up or adjust them. Get a rebuild kit, or wing it and just take it apart to fix the leak. Probably the main center gasket. Is the carb new? Maybe it wasn't put together correctly. If so, try to return it for a new one.

I'm not sure if the piston stops turning at some point, I just turned it in untill there was enough room to get the caliper over the new, thick pads. Once you get the pads in, and the caliper on and the bolt tight, pump the brake pedal to "re-set" the caliper piston. It will push the pads close to the rotor where they need to be. It's a bit tricky to get the inner pad to set where it needs to be. the forward edge gets caught on the spring sometimes. The first time I did it, I had to pull the caliper back off three times to get it right.

Yea, what he said...... You will need a "special tool" to turn the caliper pistons back in. It's a round disc with two nubs, or fingers that grab the notches in the caliper piston, and it fits on your rachet like a socket. If you have a hard time keeping it on the piston while turning, it's hard to do, check to make sure the extension on your ratchet isn't protruding out of the backside of the "special tool" and holding it off of the caliper piston. I had to grind mine down a bit. And you will need to turn them all the way in to get it back together. Re-grease the slide pins, the lower one comes all the way out. and put a little dab of brake gease on the upper and lower contact points of the brake pads. I use a torque wrench on the castle nut, 145 ft/lbs on new bearings, and I usually remove it with a torque wrench to get an idea of how tight it needs to be put back on with old bearings. Pick up an injector needle for your grease gun. It looks like your worst nightmare of a hypodermic needle but it fits on your grease gun to inject grease into rubber boots and such. It works great to slip into your bearings and re-grease them while the rotor and hub is out of the way. You'll see the bearings after you take the rotor and hub off. It's easier to loosen up the four 14mm head bolts that hold the rotor onto the hub while it's still on the axle, and to tighten them during assembly. Clean the gunk off of the outer bearing seal while your at it too. Be sure to spray the new rotors well with brake cleaner to remove any oil from the manufacturer. Oh, and just a dab of the brake noise eliminator stuff does the trick. Just on the areas where the calipers do not touch the back of the pads. I do this after the caliper is back on. Ok, that's all the tips I have. I just did all this on my hatch so it's fresh in my head. Rear brakes next week. Good luck!

SUB-4 heads might be what you want, how deep is your wallet??? http://www.ultraflight.dk/sub4_-_heads_and_cam__kit.html

Yup, it's the distributor bushings, and nope, you can't rebuild it at home. I'm sure a few folks will post some links to companies that can rebuild it for you. I just had to replace mine(same symptoms).

Does anybody have any idea how to convert emulsion tube sizes? I have 5 carbs I'm using for parts, and only one I could get the emulsion tubes out of. It had a 16 and a 94 ???? Not F6 or F50 that I expected to see. I found out about the acellerator sizes. i found that the nozzle is 50, and the bleed is 30. I guess the nozzle is the jet, that's good since I have a few that size. But where is the bleed??