Frank B

It really does sound like something fell and is lodged. I can't think of any spring that will be around where you were working but it could have been a small nut or bolt or tool. If you can turn the engine over backwards by hand it may dislodge it. You may have to take the spark plugs out to do that. Take a good look, and feel around and behind the pulleys. Is it out of gear? Sorry, just had to ask.

A new one from Autozone is $50 or so, special order. Napa wants $67 I think, special order. I'll probably go through autozone only because there the only parts store that's open after I get off of work. If I had the time to cruise the junkyard I'm sure I could find something and make it work. The problem is they would wany $40 or more for it around here so I'd be ahead by buying a new one. There's an electric motor repair shop close to where I work but there closed when I go past in the morning, and in the evening. All I need are new brushes.

I found another relay and a fuse above the fuse box, but it's not for the heater blower motor. I have no idea what's for either. But, I removed the blower motor itself and applied 12v and got no response. I then disassembled the motor to find an insane amount of dirt, dust, pieces of leaves and pine needles all ground up and covering everything INSIDE the motor! Cleaning it wouldn't help because I found the problem right away, the brushes were worn down to nothing and jammed up, and the wire was broken off one of them. I have no parts to rig it up, or time to go "shopping" at the local junkyards so I'll be ordering a new blower motor. Unless someone has a good spare to sell and mail to me..........

Yup, I have a nice one. Good point. Thanks Jerry! I'll dig for that this morning. Thanks all.

Well we've been blessed with warm weather this week after a nasty ice storm last week. And now that it's warmer, my heater blower motor quit !! None of the fan settings work, fuse OK, the resister block has no breaks or burns, and the blower fan spins freely. I want to hook up 12v directly to the motor to check it, or just to get it going for now but before I burn something up..... There are two wires to the motor, a green & white, and a red & white. Which is power and which is ground? Also, is there a blower fan relay on the EA81 cars? Also, what's the trick to get the blower motor out? It looks like a chore.

I think it's 12mm for the bolts on the driveshaft.

So changing the carb didn't help at all?

Well, I can't seem to find a list anywhere on the net that shows what the accelerator jet and nozzle size should be. Does anybody remember what your weber has in it?

Chevron Techron counteracts the effects of sulfer on sending units too. It didn't "fix" my chevy's faulty unit, but it did change it's behavior a bit. Maybe I need another treatment??

What's different about them? The last time I picked one up the parts guy brought out a 2wd and 4wd listing and they were they same as far as my four eyes could tell.

Thanks, I'll keep digging.

The difference in distributor rotors are if it is an ND or Hitachi distributor. I believe the caps are interchangeable. The parts guy has his distributors and carburetors mixed up. Now that's a boost for confidence!!

That's some snorkel you have sticking out from under the hood too !! Or is that a battering ram!

Imagine how much better it would be with good tires on it! Just some snow tires would be all you'd need.

Ok, I've got the list of jets needed for an EA81 application, but I can't find any info on the emulsion tube sizes or the accelerator pump jet size. I have three carbs, one of which I will use on my Hatch. One is an olser genuine Weber(no jets) in need of a serious cleaning, and two are Holley 5200's. The Holleys are spotless inside and out, but only one has jets. I looked at one and the jets are 132/132, 185/195, 90/50 , accel 80 !!! I will buy new jets with my adapter but I need to know the correct emulsion tube size and accel. pump jet size for the 140/140, 170/160, 50/50 set up. Thanks

I just looked at mine, and the plugged ports are for the feedback set up. The one over the left(distributor) vacuum port. And on the back, the one farthest from the choke diaphrams are connected to the solonoids on mine. Just leave them plugged.

You do not have a feedback system if you don't have an O2 sensor, but they could have used the same carb for both. Or that carb is not original. Since they are capped off, leave them that way. It may be a good way to clean the inside of the carb. Remove the caps and spray carb cleaner in the barbs.

Your in the right place!!!! Have you checked the throttle cable for slack? Does the throttle plate close completly?

The vacuum line shouldn't be an issue at idle anyway. There's no vacuum signal at idle, unless mine is messed up???? I just replaced the dizzy in my hatch since the bushings were worn, tach jumping, wierd noises, etc. The timing mark would always jump with the worn dizzy, the new(used) one I just put in is smooth. You need a distributor. I think there's a nice rebuilt one on Ebay for an 81.

I didn't say it was difficult.

A good way to find vacuum leaks is to spray carb cleaner around every little hose connection, manifold gaskets, throttle body base, etc etc. if the idle changes, you found the leak. That white mark is paint put on during original assembly, if it is broken(it's hard like plastic) then the dealer technician will know if some jerky messed with it. You would have to adjust your TPS voltage, idle air solonoid setting and who know what else to get it back. Do you have A/C ? there may be a solonoid that opens the throttle a bit if the A/C or defroster are on, check to see if that is holding it back. Also, check your throttle cable, it should have a tad-bit of slack in it. if it's too tight, it will hold open the trottle too.

But if it works....... And since when have any of us not done messy and uneccesary things to our cars!!

But if the car didn't have it to begin with.......... Or did I read it wrong, your old (original) one has it, the new one does not? If so, and the switch is just screwed into the aluminum, then I would tape, zip tie, clamp, or JB weld that sucker to a good spot on the manifold untill you get the right manifold. If there is a blank spot where the missing vacuum nipple(hose barb for the PC), then you know where to drill and tap. Have you traced the other lines on the thermobobthingy? If the missing hose is just unported manifold vacuum, you can get that from another spot on the manifold.

Those capped "breather tubes" may be for the feedback carb application. Those ticking little solenoids that regulate the amount of air through the emulsion tubes to adjust the fuel mixture ????? I'll look at mine to see, if it hasn't been confirmed in a few days. That thing in front with the wire on it is the idle stop solenoid ??? Not sure of the name at the moment, but it stops the flow of gas when you turn off the ignition so the engie doesn't diesel or run-on. If you remove it, snip the wire first. If not, you will twist it right off while unscrewing it. Use a butt-connector or small wire nut to get it back together. I've ruined two by not remembering to snip the wire. One I managed to repair. Just to the left of that there are two small vacuum hoses. The left one is for the distributor, the right the egr. Don't flame me on my spelling, I just spent 14 hours on the road and I'm beat!

That big thing with the three lines sounds like a thermo vacuum switch. If your car doesn't need it, take it off. It may just be screwed into the aluminum and not through into the coolant passage. Add a longer hose for your booster, it can't tell the difference. You may have to play around with the vacuum hoses to get them all on. Use a T connector if you have to. Got any pics??