Frank B

I have read that simply shifting into nuetral while at a stop light will increase mileage as well. It takes that extra drag of turning the tranny off the idling engine. Also helps to reduce tranny temps, which is good. I have only one auto, a 97 Lumina, but I don't drive it enough to notice those things.

If you use thick enough steel, as thick or thicker as the frame is now, the repair will be just as strong if not stronger than it was when new. Just make sure you pull the carpet back before you weld, or weld a little at a time and allow the metal to cool before starting again so you don't set the car on fire!! Keep a fire extinguisher nearby just in case.

Did you repair the wire correctly? You could just cut out the bad section and use a butt-connector, or twist and solder the two ends together. It would be a good time to use some zip-ties and secure all the wires under there too. Oh, and good job finding it, I bet it's like having a new car!

That doesn't mean you can't do it, it's just going to take more work. This board wouldn't be alive today if everybody listened to folks saying "it can't be done" or " it isn't worth it". Just take it as a warning that's it's going to be tough going, do your research, save the money, then do it right. There's my motivational speech for the month................

So were clutch type LSD's available in the R180 and R200 rear diffs? Just curious.....

I agree that the usual spots the heads crack puts coolant into the exhaust port and not into the cylinder, allthough my first subaru(86 3 door EA82) had such a deep crack that it dumped coolant into the cylinder and the exhaust port. Just the port first, which it ran that way for months, but then I ran it as hot as the guage would show for about 40 minutes on the interstate in summer!! Then it was toast. Long story. It's worth the time to re-do the intake gaskets, since you have coolant on the spark plug. I have had good results with Felpro, so far.

And if your only worried about getting passed inspection, use thin sheet metal and rivet it on. Clean up the entire underbody, then spray rubberized undercoating over everything so the underbody looks uniform. Then later on, take the sheet metal off and do it right.

I agree, get some sheet steel not thinner than 16 guage (about 1/16") and no thicker then 1/8" so you can work with it. Cut out three pieces, one for each side, and one for the bottom making sure it meets the contours of the underbody. Extend past the rusty area by 6 inches or so too. Cut or grind all the bad rusty metal out, but also leave as mush as you can to retain strength, prime and paint it, then weld in each of your pieces. Clean up the welds to hide them a bit, then undercoat it. There used to be a company selling body parts thet made a frame cap for that area that you weld in, but I can't remember who that was.

I usually change the air filter every other oil change. The Weber filters are reusable filters. You need to buy a K&N filtercharger kit, or recharger kit? I can't remember. It has a mild soap to clean it and a light oil to spray on after it dries. Let it air dry in the shade! The filter media is cotton gauze, it will shrink if you force dry it or set it in the sun to dry. It will shrink over time just being in the air cleaner too. I never liked the K&N filters, I have had them on 3 cars. Two were stock replacements, one was a square weber unit and all three vehicles started smoking(lightly) after two or three oil changes, 10-12K miles.

If your oil is tan, like sand tan, verses black or transparent gold, then you have water(coolant) in the oil. If the oil level is high, and tan gooey, and the coolant is low, then you have a head gasket issue. Did the guys at the shop drive it around? Also, if you drain the oil after letting it sit, it may seperate if theres any water in it. If it doesn't look like oil, there's a problem.

Do you get a neighbors discount?! Jump the fence and yank an LSD for me will ya? just kidding:rolleyes:

Meeky Moose has a VLSD in his EA81 wagon. I guess the early legacy 3.9 VLSD units are the ones that work.

After I got it all back together I regreted not taking pics for the non believers! The EGR is just behind the carb. You'll see a pipe coming off of the passenger side cylinder head for the exhaust gasses, if you can get that off, clean it too.

Earlier I mentioned the part number for the XT6 3.9 LSD option, 22011 GA022. I am stating to think that this may be the VLSD ???? Since the XT6 is like the missing link between Loyale and Legacy and had many Legacy parts and patterns? I can't seem to find any info on that number yet..........

In my search, I have found a short list of the LSD part numbers Subaru used, 3.70 were 7220 11000 , 7220 11001 , 7220 11002 And apparently there was a 3.90 LSD option for the XT6 that was 22011 GA022 ???

With the cars I have owned that have had pinging at one time or another, the cause was several different things. Bad gas, carbon buildup in the cylinders, timing was off, egr system not working or clogged solid with carbon, engine running hot, and mis-adjusted or worn out carb, faulty or worn out ignition parts.

I did the ATF in my hatch and I could feel a difference after only 40 miles. I went 400 total.

I was wrong, this is the one I was thinking of.... http://www.superstepside.com/

If Andrew ever comes back this way for his brat, I'll pay you $100 to put it in his hands, and I'll meet him down here????? I tried Shenandoah Auto Salvage, they want $300. I also tried Hillside in Broadway, no LSD's but one first gen brat, and one second gen brat. Custers in Fulks run had several 4Wd wagons, a first gen brat with topper, and an 87 hatch STD, but no LSD's. What yard is it that your thinking of? I'm in Luray.

Yup, you need the complete tune up. NGK plugs, NGK wires or Belden wires(NAPA), disty cap and rotor, check timing, change fuel filter(s), add some decent fuel system cleaner to your gas, SeaFoam, Chevron Techron, or Redline is good. Clean PCV, and clean EGR system ....

If it was for offroad only, I would!

I'd be willing to bet it's the same kit, just modified for the brat, or made to fit by the maker.

Is that really a brat? It looks a lot like a kit or whatever car I had seen at a car show. It was a full body kit that went onto a Caprice chassis. it was at a truck show so I guess it was a truck?? I can't remember the company that offered it.

The u-pull-it yards wanted only $100, which I would pay, but they all had non-LSD rears. I have a feeling some of the yards I called had one because they didn't sound like they new what I was asking for, but getting in the yard too see is another story. There doesn't seem to be a formula to which cars had it really. I had an 86 turbo three door DR that had one, but the 89 GL-10 FT4WD I had had one, and some cars in the yards had FT4WD but no LSD.....

Well yesterday afternoon I started calling around to the local salvage yards looking for a rear LSD to swap into my hatch. I called 42 different yards within 75 miles of here, and emailed a dozen more. Guess what, only three had the LSD rear. One wanted $350, the other $400, and the last one quoted me a discount, wholesale price of only $680 !!!! What the crap! I thought I had one for $100 at a yard not 10 minutes from my home, but when I got there he only had the 3.70 non-LSD, two actually. I can't see me spending more than $100 for one, since I only paid $400 for the car! I'll just keep an eye out for a deal on blown up turbo car and canibalize it!