Frank B

This is the first time I had one clogged up solid. I've had them stick open or the the spring / diaphram break so it opens when it isn't suposed to and man does the engine run like crap then.

I ued it before, only because I was working at NAPA and the sales rep for Lucas GAVE me one of everything they made for free! Man was my little Isuzu P'up getting the treatment that week! I liked how it felt in my fingers, and how tacky it was. But after I noticed it "melting" and dripping out of my grease gun on a hot summer day, I never used it again. I figured if 100 degress or less is going to cause this stuff to seperate or liquify, then it has no business in my bearings.

As noted in an earlier post, I had removed my EGR valve and it was clogged solid with carbon and was not working at all! The reason I did this was to find the source or reason my hatch would detonate like mad under acceleration and high rpm(above 3000). After cleaning it up as best I could, it now works. I got to drive it about 90 miles yesterday to pick up some course books and take a urinalysis, it's ok I studied for it . Anyway, the car performed great! No detonation at all, and there was a surprising difference in engine performance at higher rpm and highway speeds. I did nothing else to the car, just cleaned the EGR system. So much for the EGR system not effecting the engines performance or operation!?

I'm not going to dispute the high temp or super cold temp abilities or properties of the synthetic oils, there great for the extremes. But, unless the engine your using it in is brand new(after break in) or it's a high end car that is designed for it, what's the point? I can't see the point in using expensive oil in a used engine with crazy high miles that's allready worn and full of varnish and deposits. Most oil filters are just strainers with a bypass that opens up when the oil is "thick" from cold temps or when it's clogged so your getting dirty oil circulating at some point anyway. When I can afford a Frantz or other oil CLEANER, I'll put that to the test. Untill then, my 217,000 mile hatch gets cheap Havoline and an off the shelf cheaper(not cheapest $1) filter. I used full synthetic in an old Isuzu P'up once, it burned a quart in 2000 miles! No oil leaks, it just disapeared. Same thing happened to my big brother in his Hombre (S-10). As with every oil poll, to each there own I guess ???

Yea I saw the plugs. I read online that a piece of speedo, clutch or other cable on a drill can dig out the passages. Yesterday after I cleaned what I could I also performed a quick fix on a radiator leak(JB Weld) so I couldn't run it. Today, after the JB set up, I ran the engine up to temp and opened the EGR manually and the engine fluttered. So it now works.. , and I really don't NEED to clean those little passages since they're obviously open. I may pull the egr back off, then spray some serious carb cleaner in it as the engine runs to pull the cleaner in. Maybe that's the trick.

I think I found my answer. In the haynes manual, page 135 figure 6.1 shows the passage splitting to each side of the engine. About halfway between the carb and head there are orifices into the intake runners. The left side is 10mm the right is 13mm. It looks like the side with the air suction valve is the smaller one. Now, how in the heck would you clean those passages? The only things I can think of is removing, and stripping the intake to either soak it in a tub of solvent, gas, kerosene, paint thinner, or just blasting the passages with a torch to burn out the carbon. I thought of just drilling a hole straight under the carb so it dumps out there. I don't know. I plan on swapping the intake with an EA82 intake when I ever install my weber so I may just leave it alone. The problem is that under load(uphill) or heavy acceleration over 3000 rpm, I get a ton of detonation and some smoke out the pipe?

Sounds like it's time for a carb rebuild/cleaning, and change the fuel filters. You can cheat by removing the aircleaner, revving the engine and placing your hand over the carb to choke it, then release before it stalls, repeat. This will draw fuel through the jets more than in normal use and may pull out the crap that's clogging it. It also may make it worse. It's worked for me before, but not every time. Seafoam is fine in the oil. I have used used an entire can of it in the oil with no issues. In fact, the last 10 cars or so I've had, it was the first thing I did to it. Put a can in the oil, can in the gas, run it for a week or two and change the oil. It has freed up sticking lifters and sticking rings. After enough time it will evaporate.

When it comes to oil, just use a decent brand. Valvoline, Havoline, Castrol, etc and change it regularly. It's good to stick with one brand but with a used car it's pointless unless you know what the previous owner used. Stay away from the synthetic oils or blends unless the engine only has 2 miles on it. All the high mileage, off road, extreme use, blends are crap to me, just seams like a marketing scam. In the winter use 5w30, in the summer 10w30 or 10w40. Basically use the oil chart in the repair manuals. I've been using Havoline 5w30 in all my vehicles with no issues.

Can someone describe the EGR passage in the intake manifold? I had to remove the EGR valve to clean it, it was completely clogged with carbon. I managed to get the valve clean, the pipe, and the pipe port in the intake, but after digging out the intake port I can't tell if it turns left, right, or down?? 89 EA81 carb

Probably the same reason other auto makers invent new and odd fasteners, to keep the backyard guys form working on it! But why only the rear diff? Wait a minute, the rear diff wasn't made by subaru was it?

Advice well taken, thanks.

I read on a Datsun site that an 8mm deep well "may" work in a pinch, I'll try it and see how well it feels before I wrench on it. http://kmhafer.datsun510.com/Subaru.htm Thanks for the replies.

If the counter person knows how to use the catalogs, you may, MAY find them in the old carb books. If not, they may be able to look up jets for some of the cars that had the holley 5200 series carbs on them(weber clone). Do a search on here, and the web for "holley 5200" and you'll get your list. I used to manage two NAPA stores, and I remember the old carb parts catalogs had jets in them, but It's been a few years so they may not offer them anymore.

You left coasters get such sweet deals! I'd be lucky to get that for $2300 arounf here! Good on you Mike. Did you get the harness, etc included?

I read through the threads in the USRM concerning the LSD swap and it looks fairly simple. Are any special tools required to remove the LSD? Anyone know how much just the LSD weighs?

This one has my vote, that is one sweet three door!!!!! Who's the proud owner of this?

Have you cleaned up the engine to be able to get a better look at it? It could also be the intake manifold gasket leaking, and running down. Look for a white chaulky trail from the coolant evaporating on the hot engine. It will leave stains on the aluminum.The GL-10 I had did that. You could see the stain around the plug hole.

If you get another long block, make sure you get an SPFI one. The MPFI, carb, and of coerse the turbo engines have less compression due to the different pistons.

Oh yeah, I forgot to change that to .org .

This will help. http://www.ultimatesubaru.net/USRM2/mick-usrm/electrical/ecucodes.html

It looks just like my 89 hatch, but I have a bashed passenger side fender! Mine likes to stumble as if it would stall, but it never does, during warm up. I suspect the carb so maybe start there?? Maybe when santa brings my weber I'll find out.

You won't always get a CEL. The only codes I had that gave a CEL was the O2 circuit, waste gate duty solonoid, and the knock sensor. I'm sure there are others but that's all I had. I checked the ECM once and had 4 different codes and no CEL. You have to remove the fuel lines, remove the fasteners that hold the fuel rail on, looses the clamps that hold the rubber hoses on , the hoses for the fuel pressure regulator, and wiggle away. It can be removed while on the manifold. If you feel like spending the money, nows the time to replace the injectors with new ones. They like to stick and leak, not the o rings, the injector leaking fuel into the manifold.

I suggest "cleaning" it first. Either put a quart of rislone in with the rest gear oil. Or you can try the ATF. The trick is to drain the gear oil, replace with ATF, run for a few hundred miles, drain, fill with gear oil. I have ATF in my hatch right now and only after the first 40 miles or so I can notice a huge difference! I had rislone in it before this, it helped, but no where near as much as the ATF. I'm thinking of using 5w30 synthetic engine oil in it after I drain it. I had several Isuzu's that called for that, some Fords call for ATF in their manual trannies and I can't see what the difference would be? They all have gears and bearings??

Not true, the GL-10 I just sold to WagonsOnly got it's best at 30 mpg when I had it. When Andrew drove it home he got 35 mpg!!!! When I first got the car it got 22 mpg or so. But I replaced and or adjusted every sensor on it, and a ton of other things. If your car is getting crappy mileage it is out of tune or needs repair in one way or another. By the way you describe the intake gaskets and injectors you confirmed that. Have you checked the fault codes from the ECM?? There's a ton of thing that could be wrong that would effect the idle. The ECM codes should get you going in the right direction.

I can't remember what the blower moter assembly looks like at the moment(too much wine:drunk: ) but is it possible that you put the fan on backwards, or actually upside down? It probably only goes on one way. that or the debris you heard was dislodged by the increased airflow and is no clogging the duct. I like the idea of using the leaf blower, Maybe you can remove the blower motor and blow through there.