Frank B

Don't mess with the other screw on the throttle shaft, your just asking for trouble then. If the Idle air screw didn't effect it, you may have other vacuum leaks.

It should be around 800-900 rpm I would think. That info may be on the emissions sticker on the underside of the hood.

I'm not sure if this will work since I haven't done the ej swap yet. But in other cases where I needed a pattern, I have put a light coat of panit on the surface to be copied, then press on a piece of paper or cardboard careful to not slide it around. When you pull it off you have the exact shape and size. Cut it out then flip it over and you have your pattern. ????

So that's 100 hp more than a stock RX, awesome!

Where's your heart! How could you do this to your old friend! Just kidding........... Enjoy your new love, but in the meantime, mend your old buddy. Not depending on it everyday will allow you to have the time to repair it correctly. Because there will come a time when your new love lets you down and you need that old friend to lean on. I need a hug now...............

No chunks, just fine dust.

219,850 miles. That was my original thought, but the way it uses oil and ticks and rattles, I'll replace it within the next few months anyway. I've been tempted to do a compression test on it, but I don't want to know! If it's bad, that's all I'll think about every time I drive it. Like I do know about the metal in the oil! I'll take a good look at the filter the next time I change it, which won't be too long since I drive near 500 miles a week in it.

Last year I bough a couple dozen rare earth magnets off of Ebay. They were 1"x.25"x.50". looks like little bars. Anyway, I put one or two on every vehicles oil filter I've had since then(8), even my riding mower. I put one in the tranny pan of my Lumina too. The idea of putting it on your filter, instead of having a magnetic drain plug, is to keep it out of the engine and when you trow the filter away, you get rid of the metal bits. Well I never really noticed anything untill the other day when I changed the oil in my Hatch. I drained the filter into the drain pan after removing the magnets and transfering them to the new filter, and it looked like I was panning for gold! Silver and yellow metal in it! It looked like metal flake paint instead of oil! I wish I had gotten a pic of it. Anyway, it was well worth the $20 or so I paid for the magnets. But it really doesn't boost my confidence in this engine:-\ . I think I'll hold of on the weber and EA82 manifold swap untill I get a good engine to put in there.

You can bleed the air out of the brakes yourself and get just as good results, I have done it for years and years with no ill effect. I have a 20oz plastic soda bottle that I drilled a small hole in the cap, just big enough to get a piece of clear vinyl hose into and still small enough for the tubing to be tight in the hole. I can't remember what size hose it is, maybe 3/16", jut big enough to get onto the brake bleeding screw and about two feet long. You push the hose all the way to the bottom of the bottle and pour in a bit of brake fluid to cover the end of the hose. Put the hose on the bleeder, open it up 1/4" turn. Sometimes gravity will help and start the flow of fluid into the hose, especially if you remove the reservoir cap. Then pump the brake pedal about 6 to 10 times but not too much to suck all the fluid out of the reservoir and put air into the master cylinder. Check the bottle and look at the funky fluid that came out. You can check it after one or two pumps and you may catch the air bubbles in the clear hose. Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid, repeat procedure untill you see clean fluid in the hose. The fluid in the bottle will be sucked back into the brakes as you release the pedal, not air. That's why you put fluid in the bottle to start with. Do this with all four corners and your done. No need to pump up and have two people. Or you can just buy a hand held vacuum pump with reservoir and suck it out through the bleeders. good luck and remember to get a quart or two of brake fluid, you'll need it. You know what, I think I'll do this to my hatch today now that I'm motivated!

That's part of the PCV system by the looks of it. If that frayed piece can be removed, take it out. It's probably so clogged up that the air pressure is pushing or pulling it out. If you can clean it or get a new one from the dealer do that. Then use a better worm gear type clamp on it to snug it up. The air intake hose gets hard over time, so that little spring clamp really doesn't do much anymore.

What's the Subaru part number for the intake gaskets? I need to pick up a set for the hatch.

If they are adjusted and still clunking, then a rebuild is in order. Get a brake hardware kit. It will have all the springs and nails needed to rebuild the rear drums. Those springs wear out like everything else on an old car. Usually you will get a chatter if the nails and corresponding springs are worn.

Are you sure the return spring was keeping your carb from going back to idle? A frayed throttle cable will do that too, and worn throttle shafts. Anyway, what you've got is all you'll get. Save some cash and get a Weber on it, or go with FI.

Is the throttle cable frayed? It may be the only problem. Disconnect it from the carb then work the throttle shaft. Does is return to the idle position? Look down into the carb bores and see if the throttle plate is jamming up on the sides of the bore, if you have excessive throttle shaft play. Theres a couple of throttle cables on Ebay, about the same price as a parts store, if any have them!

Rear drums or discs? I have had clunking from rear drums, but a proper adjustment cured it.

If the auto parts store doesn't have it, try a farm or tractor store, or a hydraulics shop. I have had good luck finding odd sized o-rings there before. They have a "real" selection, not a so called universal kit.

I can attest that it is possible to get 30 to 40 mpg from a subaru. I had an all stock 86 4wd 4 speed hatch that got 37 mpg best with snow tires on it! My present 89 hatch 4wd 4 speed gets 32 mpg best with a worn disty and carb. When Wagonsonly drove the 89 GL-10 I sold him home from VA to CT, he got 35 mpg! Don't call BS on something just because you haven't done or seen it.

Check the linkage for smooth operation and make sure the fast idle cam isn't engaged. I guess you allready tried to adjust the idle with the idle screw? Also, the throttle cable can also do this if you installed or adjusted it while the engine was cold. After it heats up and the fast idle kicks down, the cable will be too tight. I would say to back off the idle screw all the way, back off the throttle cable all the way so there's a bunch of slack so nothing will be holding the throttle open. Then check for vacuum leaks.

I doubt you'll find a plug and play kit for an older subaru. Splicing a four wire set up would be easy anyway. Just heat shrink the connections to keep them from getting nasty.

Fuel in the oil is bad, it will destroy the bearings, rings, well everything! The cause can only be the carb. Remove it and rebuid it with all new gaskets making sure you clean it well, and remove all the old gaskets. It's leaking in one way or another. The needle and seat, choke sticking, or a bad gasket. Follow the repair manual to set the choke and float. Remove the egr and clean all the carbon out of it and the passages with carb cleaner. Clean your pcv valve and check the hoses for blockage. Then change your oil. Good luck.

Have you rebuilt the carb yet? Reconnect the EGR and clean the passages. reconnect your evap canister and any other emmisions stuff too and see what happens. I get 29.5 to 32 mpg in my 89 ea81 hatch 4wd 4-speed. I drive it 96 miles a day and 90% is interstate at 70+ mph. The most mpg increase I got was after I rebuilt the carb. The next highest was after I cleaned the plugged PCV valve and EGR.

Most oem thermostats are 195. The higher temp allows for better fuel atomization, and it allows the oil to reach optimum temp as well so any moisture can "boil off". The 180 thermostat may give you more power due to the cooler intake charge and cylinder temps, but it's barely noticeable, if at all in the little engines we have. Just remember, the thermostat temp is the coolest the engine will be after warm up, it does not mean it will stay at that temp. After it opens the temp can and will increase under load. It's best to get the correct temp, the carb, timing, emmisions, etc are designed for it.

All you would have to do is extend the shaft. You could take it to a machine shop and have them make new ones at your length out of whatever you want. A backyard way to do it would be to cut it in half, bevel the ends that you cut, get a 3" piece of the same metal(from another axle), bevel those edges. Piece it together the way you want it, and weld it up. If your not a good welder, pay somebody that is. If done right, the weld will be stronger than the shaft. You could also slip a piece of pipe over the shaft before you weld it up, then after you grind down the welds you slide the pipe over your welded piece then weld the ends of that pipe(sleeve). You would have your longer axle, but I have no Idea what the angles would be on the joints after that.

The rear end is the same unless your using a late model Legacy rear end. The RX, loyale, XT LSD rear end will fit fine. The driveshaft is connected with four small bolts. The thing you need to pay attention too is the gear ratio. The non-turbo cars had 3.90 ratio, the turbo cars have 3.70. You can swap the gears to get the ratio matched to the tranny ratio. Take a look at the sticker on yours, it will have the ratio and compare it to the LSD rear diff you have. If you decide not to use the LSD let me know, I am looking for one.

Yup, it's an ND. I looked at the website you posted, and it looks like they are mostly an electric motor repairer. I wonder if I can take it to an electric motor shop around here to replace the bushings???