Frank B

The O2 sensor connection really isn't that important, as long as you have a good connection. You can cut and crimp on matching connectors(male & female). Just be sure to tape up or shrink tape the connection to keep it from corroding. Also, if your not in a hurry to get one, check ebay. There are some on there for less than $20 including shipping. That's probably half of what Autozone wants for one. I got a Borg Warner one on Ebay once to replace a Bosch that made my car run like crap. Here's one. The pic shows a plate on the end, but if it comes with it, you can just unscrew the sensor from it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/O2-OXYGEN-SENSOR-BW-1WF-SG16-Subaru-DL-1988_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33557QQihZ010QQitemZ200137753882QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

Mauzy? You must have stopped at the liberty gas station just off I-81. I live in Luray just north of Mauzy. I have tried to recruit Subaru drivers around here before but most of them don't have a computer! Small world huh? Here's another one, I was born in Plainfield NJ !!!

Here's a link to my adventure. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40400&highlight=ford+fuel+pump

I know, I just don't want to replace everything on the front end in order to fix it. I only paid 400 for the car, I really don't want to put another 400 in it. This isn't the fist time I replaced axles, but it's the first time I had a vibration afterwards. When I took it apart, the bearings and seals where not the originals, either where the axles for that matter. It does need at least one ball joint so maybe I'll put it back on the "to do list" once I get the parts.

Well, I replaced the drivers side axle and it's still shaking. Aparently there's a problem with something else.

I'm familiar with the hammer and punch method from owning old gen subarus. I guess the new style bearings are to delicate?

What ever happened to the hammer and punch bearing removal method ?!

I just found this, but he won't ship, but I didn't want to spend that much anyway. http://sacramento.craigslist.org/tls/441629210.html Here's the Harbor Freight one, not as complete but it would do it. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45210 I may get the harbor freight one. But here's the thing. If Subaru fixed the problem by using different bearings, and revised the replacement procedure, what year did they start using the better bearings on the assembly line?

Thanks guys, but I really doubt I'm going to find a deal on 2005 forester rear hubs at a junkyard, especially around here! Besides, odds are they're just as bad.

I'll get my hands on it tomorrow and see if I can rule out anything. I just rotated the tires on it and I deliberately tried to "wiggle" the wheels out of habit to check for worn bearings and suspension, and they were all tight. Thanks for the replies.

I just found this; http://www.endwrench.com/current/Current6/03/WhBearRep.pdf I know at least one of you have done this without the special tools, can you describe the procedure? I would have one day, maybe two to tackle this.

What years were the bad years? Or was it just a bad choice of bearing manufacturer form Subaru? My folks have a 2005 Forester, and love it! In fact they just made the last payment. So of course now they're hearing a noise from the rear. Started from the right side, now it's both sides, or just from the back as Mom says. ANyway, I did some checking and it seems that the Forester rear bearings are known for going bad. But was it just the Subaru bearings? If I get an SKS bearing is it better? Also, is a press needed or is there some jack-leg backyard way to do replace it?

The autozone here looks like it's staffed by a high school shop class........... Nothing against those boys, but when I ask for something and they say "I've never seen that before!", I get a chuckle. Sometimes you'll see the price go the other way. I've seen $40 dollar items come up as $1 !! That's when you like having a clueless parts guy!

I hope that's all it is.

Awesome! I was worried about that.

The car always had a vibration at highway speeds, 60 mph +, but never on acceleration. It feels like its more on the left(drivers) side too. I may have time on sunday to switch out the new GCK with the old ones and we'll see what that does. All because of a torn inner boot! It wasn't even making noise but I wanted to take advantage of the price on amazon.com, which means I may have a hassle returning them!

Ok, I just installed two new GCK axles on my 89 Hatch. I didin't replace the wheel bearings or seals since the seals looked great and the bearings haven't given my any complaints. Anyway, I've done this job a dozen time or more, which comes with owning Subaru's, so I feel as if I did it right. But, know there is a terrible vibration during acceleration as if I have a bad DOJ! It shakes the whole car! The first trip it was just a bit during the first 20 feet or so, but now (after 70 miles on the new axles) anytime I accelerate. These are the GCK units I bought from the Amazon site, so returns may be a hassle. Any ideas on what else could have caused this? I'll dig deeper this weekend.

Just the sender. I have a mech. guage I could install but I really hate having it "sticking out" on the dash.

Are there any other vehicles(nissan?) that share the same oil pressure switch or sender with guage, as our ea81/ea82 cars? My guage drops to zero then come back up a few minutes later whenever it feels like scaring the crap out of me !! Maybe I can find a deal on ebay or at the local boneyard from another car. If not does anyone have a good used one to fit an ea81?

Just looked and it seems like only the Beck Arnley parts are closeouts. Not a good sign when an international parts company is no longer selling our parts!!!

Years ago, when the USMB was young, there was an aviation website that offered subaru EA81/82 flanges to make your own intake and exhaust manifolds. Does anyone know who that was?

I was under the impression that the GCK were new, not rebuilt.

I've never had to replace a heater core in ANY vehicle I've owned, luck I guess. But I have flushed them with good results. Get a garden hose repair end, the kind you clamp on the hose, and put that on the heater hose that you have disconnected so your garden hose connects to it properly. Then with the other hose disconnected as well, turn on the water but gradually increase pressure. DO NOT let it fly, your home water pressure is 60 + psi, and your coolant system is designed to operate at 13 psi. So gradually increase pressure untill the water is running clear and steady. Then swap hoses to back flush. Your done. Or you can simply switch the hoses going to your heater core so the flow of coolant will be reversed and over time it may break it up. Good luck

Thanks for posting this, I just ordered two for my hatch! They have a good catalog on the site. http://www.gck.com/

That's a good looking dog, what breed(s) is it?