Frank B

So what did you do for the fix Skip, increse the slot length and install the bolt? I haven't had a good look at the linkage.

Get that thing fixed and tuned up, you could turn a nice profit on Ebay these days. If it wasn't white, I would offer to buy it.

Your welcome. Iv'e had two EA82T's but no EA81T.

Somewhere on the head it should have EA82 cast into them. If it's just EA82, they're first generation, if there's a line under it, it's 2nd, if there's a box around it, it's 3rd. It's believed that they got better, but I can't remember the changes that made them better.

Nope, the EA82T injectors are in the intake manifold.

With any parts on Amazon, it's best to have the part number to do the search. Go to the manufacturers website, or a parts store website to get the number.

Here's a link to them http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/165mm-H4651-H4656-H1-H4-EURO-CONVERSION-HEADLIGHTS-SET_W0QQitemZ230154656431QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item230154656431

Gold star for the effort. Just looks like a lot of heavy steel!

A stock EA82T car with a proper tune up, and new two row(thick core) rad will do that speed, I'ved owned two, and they both would. If your exhaust doesn't need to be street legal, replace it with straight pipe after the turbo, 2.5" I believe. Not only will it increase the power, it will keep the egt down by getting the hot exhaust out faster, and keeping the turbo cooler. Open up the air intake too. Increase boost to 10 psi or so. Remove all roof racks, side trim, mirrors, wipers, anything to reduce drag. Lowering it would be good. Don't try to fit larger tires under it since this will increase drag on the engine. Just go with awesome Goodyears or something. ROLL CAGE!! If your willing to enter the race, you've seen some of the wreck footage, so I'm sure no further explaining is necessary.... But I'm sure a carbed wagon with open exhaust and a weber would be just fine too.

Oh, and for the 4wd, just use it when you need it, regardless of conditions. If the tires spin and you can't get traction, then use 4wd. You'll be amazed how little you will need it with good tires on your car. But when you do need it, you'll be even more amazed how well it does! Just be sure to be going straight when shifting in and out. And if it's hard to come out of 4wd, drive over something slick like grass, dirt, gravel, snow, or mud, then shift out.

Get your hands on a voltmeter, and test the voltage at the battery terminals as the engine idles, then throttle up with the voltmeter still attached. It should be 14.4 volts, not 12v. 12v will not charge a 12v battery, it must be more than 12v. 13 would do it, but 14.4 is best. There's a really good chance that you need a new radiator. They are notorius for clogging and the bottom rows rotting out. Don't waste your time and money trying to flush it, or repair it, buy a new one. I suggest you spend a little more and get the thick core radiator, one listed for a turbo model. But here's a deal for you, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1985-1994-SUBARU-Loyale-radiator_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33602QQihZ001QQitemZ110212974407QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW As long as the oil pressure dosn't drop to zero at idle, your good.

you could always rent a box truck big enough to put the car inside of. It's done everyday. Just make sure you strap it down very well. The truck WILL handle the weight. I used to work at a manufacturing plant in town here, and the headquarters is in Iowa. So when ever some big-shot transfered they would put all there stuff in a trailer and ship it to the plant. I can't remember how many times I would be halfway through unloading a tralier when I would fid a car!

When I had my 86 turbo 3-door, I had all the u-joints replaced at a 4X4 driveline shop. He cut out the old joints with a torch, cleaned it up with a die grinder, then clamped it into a lathe to center the joints before tach welding them in. I can't remember the number he used, but the u-joints were stocked NAPA items.

Did he show any interest in the USMB?

A product exists on the market just for that. http://www.motorcycleramps.com/motorcycle_caddy.htm But your still putting stress, or wear on the rear suspension, tire and bearings. Not very derirable when your dealing with a classic bike. Take one of these, http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_7262_7262 extend it enough for the bike to fit, bolt on one of these, http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200322871_200322871 And your good. Oh, and always bring a spare tire and wheel.

Its small on the tranny itself, but add the length of a shifter and it'll feel like it should.

I've had good luck recently with www.rockauto.com . Sometimes you can get lucky if you ask for 87 brat or 87 Standard. The Standard was just a base hatchback anyway. I've learned to look up the part number online at the parts stores website, compare it to the 85 and up EA82 series part number to make sure it's not the same number, then go into the store with the part number I need. At first the guys didn't like it and wanted to look it up anyway, but now they just go with it. Don't forget Ebay.........

If it gets too bad, and your vehicle inspecter doesn't look to closely, you could use 13" trailer tires!

Because 13" and 12" tires are found on economy cars. Lighter , easier to turn, less unsprung weight, etc. Gas goes up, or supply gets short, those little econo-boxes will make a come back. I expect to see low profile 15" tires instead though. Alloy or plastic composite wheels, maybe with a molded rubber skin instead of a tire to save weight and materials. But not on economy gas cars, but Hybrids or plug-ins. I got real lucky with a set of snow tires. My work has a small service center and store open to the public that sells the basics, tires, oil, batteries, etc. They just happened to have 4 13" snow tires on the shelf, been there for years! They're 185/80-13, a bit tall but that's fine. It robs some of the power from the car, but I can't wait for snow! I got them for $32 a piece, but the ****ers charged me $60 to mount and balance, then tried to get 5% for my using my debit/charge card! I work there, bought the tires there, had them installed there! Never again. I bet you'll find them in the smaller tire stores, the private owned, mom and pop places. The kind that doesn't just stock what corporate tells them to.

After double checking all the proper settings and making the correct adjustments, you may end up needing an Idle Stop Solenoid, http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/43914.060.htm . It stops the fuel flow after the ignition is turned off.

Got any pics? Sounds like one is a shared ground, the other three are to supply voltage to each lamp.

I think they are all aluminum now. So they do not rust up.

If I slept in my Hatch I'd be dead in 10 minutes from the oil smoke burning off the Y pipe !!!!

Hey GravelRX, tell us about that Surfwagon in your pics, that's nice!

That's the best looking Sube I've seen in West Virginia !!!! It's well worth the efforts to keep it that way, good job.